Peacekeeper6 Mod Thread

[h0gr1der]

I just installed it last Saturday, 2 days ago.

I don't really like to ride in the rain (I'm a fair weather rider with no real rain gear), so that's not a concern. I'll try my best to avoid any puddles or wet spots on the road.

I did try to unhook the left fender to gain a bit more access, but I think my bumpskid was preventing it from moving. Because of this, I didn't bother to unhook the air intake. Like I said, when I decide to remove the frunk for the sway bar install is the time I'll try to reinstall that stupid cap.

I should just run a few strips of duct tape across the opening in the meantime, lol.

I just got done doing this, and I removed the frunk to do it. IMO taking the frunk off is less stressful than trying to get the cover back on the left fog light with the frunk on. I would rate this as about a 3 on your scale, the air intake tube is a chore getting it back on while trying to land the frunk. Takes 2 people too.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...Spyder-today&p=1507940&viewfull=1#post1507940

 

[pegasus1300]

Thanks Paul.
Yeah, can't remember the name of Diamond R's owner, but he was very personable and patient that I just HAD to give him my business. After a few months with it, I wish there was some sort of locking mechanism so the armrests doesn't move once it's set at a certain position. Other than that, I have been getting a lot of compliments with it.

Many are also digging the decals from Wrap My Spider. I'm hoping to get some custom ones with our names, kind of like the names of fighter jocks stenciled on the side of their F15s, F16s, F18s, etc. Hoping that someone will read this post and point me in the right direction....

His name is Allen at DiamondR. Wrap My Spyder will make anything you need just call and explain what you want.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

I just got done doing this, and I removed the frunk to do it. IMO taking the frunk off is less stressful than trying to get the cover back on the left fog light with the frunk on. I would rate this as about a 3 on your scale, the air intake tube is a chore getting it back on while trying to land the frunk. Takes 2 people too.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...Spyder-today&p=1507940&viewfull=1#post1507940

Kinda dreading this because it looks very daunting.

I'm sure it's not as bad as it looks....

 

[Peacekeeper6]

His name is Allen at DiamondR. Wrap My Spyder will make anything you need just call and explain what you want.

Yeah, I'm thinking of starting an e-mail correspondence with them.

 

[h0gr1der]

Kinda dreading this because it looks very daunting.

I'm sure it's not as bad as it looks....

It's typical Spyder. Looks bad, really pretty easy. Watch the excellent video by PurpleGuy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNd2qmioXkA&feature=youtu.be

The only thing I missed was the Battery Tender harness which I had glued into the frunk grommet, and the USB/Audio cable with a grommet under the frunk liner. Not hard at all. Typical of Spyder procedures, took me about 4 hours, now that I know I could probably do it in 2. It's not heavy, just clumsy to handle. Luckily the frunk has hooks that hang it while you get everything reassembled.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

7) Lamonster Ultra Bright LED Fog Lights (Take 2) or Removal Of Frunk to facilitate installation


Difficulty Level - 3

Tips - If you have the LED bumpskid, disconnect the wire from the harness. Also, you can leave the bumpskid on without taking it off, but it'll add some weight to make it even MORE bulkier. If you choose to leave it on, just take off the two rearmost bolts.
If you have the Spyclops, disconnect the wire as well. When you disconnect these wires, also cut off all zip ties !! Inside the frunk, fish out all the cables such as the USB and Battery Tender plug and place them on top of the battery. I couldn't remove the switch thingie for the frunk, so I ended up unbolting the frunk latching system which made removing the switch easier. Once you follow these tips, as well as watching numerous YouTube vids on the frunk removal procedure, you and a friend can easily lift it up and out. (Trust me, it's A LOT easier with someone to help you).

FINALLY INSTALLED THAT DAMN COVER OF THE LEFT FOG LIGHT SO THAT I CAN SLEEP BETTER AT NIGHT !!

Prior to reinstallation, tape all the wires of the frunk to the top of it to prevent it from getting pinched between the frame. Also, it helps A LOT if you use hose lube on the air intake to facilitate the reinstallation. Hose lube contains no solvents to damage the rubber and is sold in any marine shops. I also put a dab on the plastic tabs of the tupperware so that it easily slides past the grommets.

Notes: The frunk removal was easier than I thought. I was kind of dreading this procedure, but I am glad I gave it a shot and further expanded my Spyder knowledge. The more I work on it, the easier and more comfortable I get tearing my bike apart. I took my sweet old time, and I ended up spending the better part of the afternoon from start to finish, WITHOUT using any power tools. I suppose I could have used my drill, but I have this fear of cross threading.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

It's typical Spyder. Looks bad, really pretty easy. Watch the excellent video by PurpleGuy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNd2qmioXkA&feature=youtu.be

The only thing I missed was the Battery Tender harness which I had glued into the frunk grommet, and the USB/Audio cable with a grommet under the frunk liner. Not hard at all. Typical of Spyder procedures, took me about 4 hours, now that I know I could probably do it in 2. It's not heavy, just clumsy to handle. Luckily the frunk has hooks that hang it while you get everything reassembled.

Thanks for that vid and the much-needed encouragement.

You're right, it's about a "3" if you're by yourself, 2.5 if you have an assistant to help you lift it, LOL.

 

[h0gr1der]

Thanks for that vid and the much-needed encouragement.

You're right, it's about a "3" if you're by yourself, 2.5 if you have an assistant to help you lift it, LOL.

I started out alone, got in a bind and had to scream for reinforcements!

 

[Peacekeeper6]

8) Not really a mod, but an oil and filter change

Difficulty Level - 1.5 (the .5 is the added stress level of NOT stripping the drain plug as many have done, lol)

Tips - I decided to change the oil and filter at 1000 miles so that the metal shavings during break-in won't further damage the engine. For the RT-L, the transmission drain plug is a 6mm Allen and the main oil drain plug is a Torx 45. BOTH seemed to be torqued down by ROTAX factory-trained gorillas who don't know how to use a damn torque wrench from the assembly plant. Either that, or the robots that install them have their torque settings WAY off. Anyway, the 6mm Allen was easy, probably because I used my trusty 1/2-inch breaker bar that is 18" long. The added leverage made short work of loosening it. For the main drain plug, I heeded the advice of some who said to tap it lightly to "loosen the varnish" prior to loosening it. I went one step further and used my hand impact tool. For those who don't know what it does, it's a tool you use with various bits (Philips, Allen, Torx, etc.) and when you tap it ONCE YOU HAVE IT SQUARELY SET ON THE BOLT/PLUG, it automatically turns and loosens it. I only tapped it 2 or 3 times, then used my big-ass breaker bar. It loosened it NO problem. When you are using such tools, you better make damn sure you are turning the bolt the right way, or else you're in huge trouble. (BTW, it makes it SO MUCH easier to work on this if the bike is raised 8" or so. I have 4 Rhino ramps, so I drove the front wheels on a pair, then used a jack to raise the back end and lowered the rear tire on another Rhino ramp).

Another great tip I used from others is to tape the threads of the main drain plug prior to putting in the new rubber o-rings. Those threads are wicked sharp, and can do damage to the o-rings when trying to install them. Also, I didn't bother using a torque wrench when installing the drain plugs and oil filter housing cap back because of the problems encountered by some. I've snugged down "a few" drain plugs in my life to know exactly when to stop turning. I've got a calibrated elbow, what can I say, LOL.

Notes: I forgot to put some rags around the main oil drain plug, so when it was draining, some of the oil dripped down on one of the bottom panels. Luckily, it wasn't that much and it pooled in the front of the panel, which can be accessed by taking off the bottom left Can-Am labeled tupperware directly in front of my left leg. It was an easy clean-up, and in the future, I might Dremel some material off the bottom panel so it won't do that again. Also, 5 quarts takes the oil level to the MIN mark, so I added another 14 ounces to put it at a level I'm comfortable with.

Don't let a simple oil and filter change procedure intimidate you. With the proper tools, it's not difficult at all.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Welp, after much deliberation and thought, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Baja Ron Swaybar. There were actually two reasons I did it:

(1) There were MANY riders on this thread that highly recommended the sway bar. I figured this many people can't be all wrong, lol.

and

(2) The incredibly thorough installation instructions from Pierre Poliquin of Spyder TV and canamspyderaccessories. His detailed procedures from YouTube gave me confidence to try this mod, and I'm sure it won't be THAT bad (famous last words, right ??). Plus, anybody who can admit that they're just an average mechanic, and can dance like me on a public video forum, pushed me to purchase one of the highly-regarded mods for the Spyder. It's guys like him that makes modifying our bike fun and pleasurable. If I ever see Pierre out on the road, I'm just gonna have to buy him a drink, lol.

Anyway, can't wait to receive it and get started. I even went to the garage and did a quick survey on what to take off. Guess my LED bumpskid will be the first one to go....

 

[Lew L]

High lifting

Hi Lou,
The hardest part about the anti-sway bar swap is getting the :spyder2: high enough ( and safely ) off the ground to replace the bar. There are a number of ways to do it.
Lifting in stages with sturdy supports added in each stage. Or long ramps on a truck tailgate. Others will chime in I'm sure. It is one of the best mods you can do to a :spyder2:nojoke

Lew L

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Hi Lou,
The hardest part about the anti-sway bar swap is getting the :spyder2: high enough ( and safely ) off the ground to replace the bar. There are a number of ways to do it.
Lifting in stages with sturdy supports added in each stage. Or long ramps on a truck tailgate. Others will chime in I'm sure. It is one of the best mods you can do to a :spyder2:nojoke

Lew L

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your advice. I have a feeling my Rhino ramps aren't gonna cut it, so I'm thinking of using my Sears motorcycle lift to see if I can get enough clearance. I just need to slide the bar and blocks off once I disconnect the end links and bolts that secure the blocks. Then slide the new swaybar. Hopefully it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to do that.

 

[PW2013STL]

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your advice. I have a feeling my Rhino ramps aren't gonna cut it, so I'm thinking of using my Sears motorcycle lift to see if I can get enough clearance. I just need to slide the bar and blocks off once I disconnect the end links and bolts that secure the blocks. Then slide the new swaybar. Hopefully it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to do that.

Yesterday I removed my Ron bar and put the RT bar on my F3 (trading in the F3 for 2020 RT). I am going to use the Ron bar on the new RT. Since you need close to 22" ground clearance I use my Sears lift and raise the Spyder as high as it will go and place my jack stands on pieces of 2x10's, and lower the spyder A arms onto them. I than using a 2x6 wide enough to bridge the arms of the lift( I glued rubber mat onto the face of the 2x6) I lift the Spyder again raising the jack stands until I achieved the height needed.
The issue is that the sway bar passes over the frame and has bent ends so you need to get that high in order to swing it pass the frame.

 

[Kent]

Thanks this was great and entertaining lol. I can see most of this in my near future.

 

[triplethreat]

I too bought and installed a Bajaron sway bar. Since I was a new Spyder owner, I knew that I would need a lift for that job, as well as other future work on the RTL. After watching Pierre's video on the install and seeing the lift that he used and recommended, I purchased the PitBull lift that he sells. My previous lift was a pneumatic motorcycle lift and I had just sold that one since I no longer have two wheeled motorcycles. The sale of that one funded the purchase of the new one from Pierre....the PitBull lift. I used it for the install and I highly recommend it if you are looking for a new lift. The PitBull with give you approx. 25" of lift, which is more than sufficient for the sway bar install......and it's as steady as a rock, even when lifted to that height.......very nice.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - No real surprise here. The instructions that come with it are incredibly THOROUGH, complete with detailed pictures, descriptions and measurements. The only difficult part was the step prior to installing the actual backrest to the support where I had to struggle with the plastic boot. It is step 17 of 18, lol. The best way to put it on is from the side: push one side on, and then use a screwdriver of the appropriate size and lever the rest of the boot over to the other side. Also there is a step where you had to cut the seat foam. Just use a sharp, serrated knife of decent length because it's a long way down to the seat pan.

Notes: I haven't gotten out for a test ride yet, but from sitting on the bike numerous times to make adjustments to the seat height and angle, I can already tell this mod is going to make a HUGE difference. The type of leather, stitch pattern and color Utopia uses matches the stock BRP passenger backrest. Those guys from OH sure know what the heck they're doing because this backrest just screams QUALITY. I also love the fact that I didn't have to remove the seat, which was very convenient.

 

[MONK]

(9) Utopia Built-in Driver's Backrest

Difficulty Level - 1

Tips - No real surprise here. The instructions that come with it are incredibly THOROUGH, complete with detailed pictures, descriptions and measurements. The only difficult part was the step prior to installing the actual backrest to the support where I had to struggle with the plastic boot. It is step 17 of 18, lol. The best way to put it on is from the side: push one side on, and then use a screwdriver of the appropriate size and lever the rest of the boot over to the other side. Also there is a step where you had to cut the seat foam. Just use a sharp, serrated knife of decent length because it's a long way down to the seat pan.

Notes: I haven't gotten out for a test ride yet, but from sitting on the bike numerous times to make adjustments to the seat height and angle, I can already tell this mod is going to make a HUGE difference. The type of leather, stitch pattern and color Utopia uses matches the stock BRP passenger backrest. Those guys from OH sure know what the heck they're doing because this backrest just screams QUALITY. I also love the fact that I didn't have to remove the seat, which was very convenient.

You should make that "Difficulty Level - .5"

I'm on my 2nd Utopia backrest. I had one on my Victory Vision and now one on my Spyder. It was almost my 1st "mod" and when I end up buying up, I'll probably order another Utopia before I buy the next Spyder just so it's ready to go when I am. Bob @ Utopia is a great guy. He answers alot of his own emails (as opposed to most companies who have an office admin reply...no issue with that but not as personal), too.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

(10) Baja Ron Swaybar

Difficulty Level - 2 (if it weren't for those dang aluminum spacers that came with it, it would've been a 1)

Tips - When the instructions say "You will need 20-22 inches of clearance below the bottom of the frame member (Channel) that holds the sway bar", they weren't kidding. I had mine up in the air and needed juuuust a wee bit more, so luckily I had my motorcycle jack to lift it another inch or two. Also, if ANYBODY has a tip in installing the small aluminum spacers between the top bracket and the end links, I'd like to hear it. After having it fall numerous times on my head, I decided to stop short of super glueing the damn thing but instead taped the end link out of the way and just patiently put it in the old fashioned way. Also, if you have a bumpskid, it is NOT necessary to take it off (I was in the middle of cutting the zip ties and was about to loosen the bolts of the bumpskid when I decided to check it for clearance just for the heck of it. Lucky I did, and an extra step was avoided). BTW, if the old swaybar doesn't slide out one side, try sliding it out the other side. When I tried to slide it off the left side, it just needed a touch more clearance. So I tried to slide it off the right side and lo and behold, it worked. There could have been a metal component that made the right side technique work.

Notes: I didn't have time to take it for a real test ride, but just decided to ride around a couple of blocks. Initial impression suggests that it made the steering "heavier" and the bike wasn't as squirrelly or darty. I can't wait to take it on some of our twisty mountain roads so prevalent in our area. A quick "thank you" to Baja Ron for building such a quality product: comparing the old skinny swaybar to the new beefier one, and comparing the old plastic end links to the new metal ones, it's like night and day. I'm hoping the old handling and the new handling will be as well....

 

[Peacekeeper6]

You should make that "Difficulty Level - .5"

I'm on my 2nd Utopia backrest. I had one on my Victory Vision and now one on my Spyder. It was almost my 1st "mod" and when I end up buying up, I'll probably order another Utopia before I buy the next Spyder just so it's ready to go when I am. Bob @ Utopia is a great guy. He answers alot of his own emails (as opposed to most companies who have an office admin reply...no issue with that but not as personal), too.

That plastic boot increased the difficulty level 0.5 points, lol.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

(11) Cardo Freecom 4 Plus

Difficulty Level - 1 (hardware), 1.5 (software....I'm not exactly the greatest when it comes to firmware updates).

Tips - Pretty straightforward install. The numerous Cardo videos in YouTube are extremely helpful in both installation and usage.

Notes: This thing is pretty impressive (it had better be for the price I paid for it, LOL). The ear pieces are made by audio giant JBL, and the sound quality is crystal clear. The boom mic is a sturdy piece that is quite sensitive to my voice.

Which brings me to the comm system's pièce de résistance: voice command. Instead of me fumbling around with my iPhone controls (it is Bluetoothed to it) or pushing the dinky buttons on the little control box attached to the side of my helmet, I can just speak to the mic and say, "Hey Cardo, radio on" or "Hey Cardo, volume up" or "Hey Cardo, battery status" or "Hey Cardo, next track" or "Hey Siri, call Jack Reacher" or "Hey Siri, where is the Mustang Ranch ??" (remember it is BT'ed to my iPhone).

Pretty. Friggen. Cool.

Another cool thing is that I can communicate with other riders who do NOT have the same brand as I do, like Sena, which is the other player in this field.

This is our first motorcycle comm system, and it is a definite game-changer.