General Spyder info needed...

[MrMagicFingers]

Hi Everyone!

I am new here... about a week or so. I don't have a Spyder but that's the reason I am here! I am reading this site from cover to cover. A lot of great information here.

My wife is selling her 2 wheeled bike. She is becoming, or should I say has become very uneasy being on two wheels. Thus, the search for a Spyder has started.

I tend to research the crap out of anything I do and this will be no different. I am a firm believer that the only stupid or silly question is the one that's not asked. I will have a bunch I am sure. Please check out my profile. I am no stranger to bikes or mechanics.

I need some help please...

1) Is there a chart anywhere that shows the models of the different Spyders and their options and accessories over the years?
2) Charts that list years, engines and models?
3) Recommendations of models and years to look for or stay away from?
4) Big things to look for a stay away from?
5) Is there a buyers guide??

I certainly don't mind doing my own work to the bike... I rather am looking forward to it. We don't have the coin to purchase new so used it will be. I also don't mind age at all if an older quality bike can be purchased.

Many thanks in advance,

Tim

 

[CopperSpyder]

Rule of thumb on the RT they are all good but some are better then others. 2013 was a bad year but most were fixed with recall long story. So the newer you get the better they seem with small improvements each year, but the more they will cost. Rt 2010 to 2013 had a twin cylinder engine 998 and the 2014 to 2020 have three cylinder 1330 engine. The Can Am F3 line also uses the 1330 engine. Can am currently makes a Spyder RT, RTL and F3, F3T and F3L. and they have the Ryker line with the Ryker 600, Ryker 900 and Ryker 900 Rally. There were some older models like the RS, GS, RSS and ST that are no longer made all using the 990 engine. Good Luck Shopping! Glad your finding your way around the forum.

 

[Freddy]

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/bikes/BRP.htm

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/bikes/BRP.htm

WOW :yes::yes: That has to be the single most informative compendium of the Entire Spyder / Ryker line I've ever seen .... Thank you very, very much ......THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Freddy]

You're welcome BK & MMF.

So glad to be of assistance - hopefully it will be reparation for my 'sins'. roflmao

 

[MrMagicFingers]

Rule of thumb on the RT they are all good but some are better then others. 2013 was a bad year but most were fixed with recall long story. So the newer you get the better they seem with small improvements each year, but the more they will cost. Rt 2010 to 2013 had a twin cylinder engine 998 and the 2014 to 2020 have three cylinder 1330 engine. The Can Am F3 line also uses the 1330 engine. Can am currently makes a Spyder RT, RTL and F3, F3T and F3L. and they have the Ryker line with the Ryker 600, Ryker 900 and Ryker 900 Rally. There were some older models like the RS, GS, RSS and ST that are no longer made all using the 990 engine. Good Luck Shopping! Glad your finding your way around the forum.

Great info... We are going to be looking at anything that is a touring model I think. We often go away for a week or so when we can or at least a 4 day weekend. She has he own crap to carry! hahahaha So wheat ever we get will have at lest saddle bags on it and a rear trunk. The "frunk" on these are pretty nice too.

The 1330 engines are probably what I will be shooting for if I can. to be honest I have not heard good things about the 990's... I think. I have to let all this new info settle down and re-evaluate it in a few weeks. Starting to hit that information over load.

Thanks for the reply Copper Spyder!

Tim

 

[MrMagicFingers]

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/bikes/BRP.htm

Freddy... Thanks for the link. LOTS of info there. Now that I have "Covid" time on my hands I will take a good looks at that site tomorrow.

Thanks!

Tim

 

[pegasus1300]

Great info... We are going to be looking at anything that is a touring model I think. We often go away for a week or so when we can or at least a 4 day weekend. She has he own crap to carry! hahahaha So wheat ever we get will have at lest saddle bags on it and a rear trunk. The "frunk" on these are pretty nice too.

The 1330 engines are probably what I will be shooting for if I can. to be honest I have not heard good things about the 990's... I think. I have to let all this new info settle down and re-evaluate it in a few weeks. Starting to hit that information over load.

Thanks for the reply Copper Spyder!

Tim

Don't know why you would have heard bad things about the VTwin. It is a sold motor(BTW 998cc).it's biggest downfall is bad gas mileage. I have 55000+ touring miles on my 2012 and while I would replace it with a 2020 if I had the money it would not be because of reliability problems. If you find a Twin at an attractive price don't let the mileage stop you, you just have to plan a little better. Good luck in your search. Happy hunting, there are lots of low mileage deals out there.

 

[RICZ]

Not mentioned so far, is the difference between the RT and the F3 is; you sit ON an RT, you sit IN an F3. To make the car analogy; the RT is the family sedan, the F3 is the sport car.
The F3 is much easier to service as it has far less "Tupperware" and things like the dipstick and brake fluid reservoir are much easier to access.
The F3 Limited has movable floorboards, fore and aft.
One more thing....I recommend you buy a 2014 and up model for its 1330 cc three cylinder engine. More power, higher fuel mileage and consumes no oil.
I hope this was of some help to you.

 

[jsflash]

Hey, bought my first cycle @62 in Feb. it is a 2013 Spyder RS... has the 998 engine, I found that it’s a high rev euro engine, it likes to run in the 4K rpm’s minimum , I usually shift between 5000-5500 rpm’s... there’s also a very good thread on here about the Spyders, search “ Do’ and Don’ts “... lots of fun to ride, really love it

 

[Peter Aawen]

....... to be honest I have not heard good things about the 990's......

:yikes: You just can't have been listening!! :shocked:

You want Sporty AND Tourability? You should look very carefully at & possibly consider getting a 2012 or post recall 2013 RT. :thumbup:

The 2012's were definitely 'the culmination' of improvements in the earlier V-Twin RT's; while the 2013's only had heat issues because they got all the upgraded frame & running gear etc intended for the new 1330 motor that wasn't ready in time, so the longer 998 V-Twin got stuffed back in! Once the heat issues were resolved, they became arguably the best & most exciting RT you can get - especially if you get an ECU Upgrade done! hyea:

The V-Twin engines are a revvier motor than the 1330 Triples, and while there's no denying the 1330 Triples have tons of torque from down low right on thru, they really are a pretty lazy motor!! Nice enough if that's what you want, but..... :sour: The V-Twins are a much peppier, revvier, sportier motor than the Triples, and a whole lot more exciting and fun to ryde! Once you learn how to handle the Spyder Roadster differences & characteristics, there's not much that'll keep up with them in the twisties, regardless of it having 2, 3, or 4 wheels! It's only when you get out into the wide open spaces with long straights that the sheer volume of air these things hafta push ahead of them becomes a limiting factor and all those on lesser machines can begin to catch up! And the 1330's still have all that air to push! Then once you're out of the fun stuff and settle into cruising mode, you probably aren't going to be pushing the extremes of the V-Twins' capabilities anyway! And given the gains to be had from an ECU Upgrade that can see a V-Twin becoming even more exciting to ride while your pushing it, yet still able to get pretty close to the same sort of fuel economy as the 1330's while cruising, there's a lot to recommend looking at the 2012/2013 RT's! :lecturef_smilie:

And if you're wondering about the differences between the SM & SE gearboxes, the SE transmission is exactly the same manual transmission as the SM's, only the SE's have the addition of a Centrifugal Clutch on the 2013 & earlier 5 speeds and an Electro/Hydraulic Clutch on the 2014 on 6 speeders (which works on engine oil pressure) plus Flappy Paddles for your left thumb and forefinger to use to control the up/down shifts via computer solenoid activated selectors. The computer can do in milli-seconds what it might take you a couple of seconds to do manually; it has 'auto blipping' for precise rev matching shifting up and down; plus protective parameters so you can't stuff up a gear change and get it wrong/hurt anything! The SE's also have a 'fail-safe downshift' to protect the engine & clutch if you are trying to put too much torque thru a given gear, so it'll downshift for you if it must, as you stop, or as a last resort - but even with scads of torque on tap, no-one really just gets these things moving, shifts their Spyder up into the highest gear it'll pull, & then rides around without ever changing their MANUAL gearbox down again as appropriate, do they?? So why would anyone do that to their SE even if it has got 'fail-safe' electronic downshifting capabilities! :shocked:

All up, there's a lot of 2013 & earlier RT V-Twins out there (plus a whole bunch of optioned up pre-1330 ST's & lots of GS/RS/RSS's that are even sportier than the RT's!) that can be had for a pretty good price - many of them still with relatively low milage (some barely run in!) You really shouldn't restrict yourself to looking ONLY at the 1330's, unless maybe you are always going to be towing?! :dontknow: While the V-Twin Spyders might be a little 'older', they are still a great machine and really, in the overall scheme of things, very few had major or even significant issues. Forums are simply an easy place to talk about problems; those that don't have issues are probably still out there ryding, instead of posting up their woes or trying to help! You really could do a whole lot worse than spend less money on the initial purchase price needed for a V-Twin; then invest in an ECU Upgrade that'll bring your 'new to you' V-Twin up to what it should've been from the start; and still have a bunch of cash on hand for farkling &/or touring. hyea: :2thumbs:

Keep an open mind, and check 'em all out! Good Hunting. :thumbup:

 

[MrMagicFingers]

Not mentioned so far, is the difference between the RT and the F3 is; you sit ON an RT, you sit IN an F3. To make the car analogy; the RT is the family sedan, the F3 is the sport car.
The F3 is much easier to service as it has far less "Tupperware" and things like the dipstick and brake fluid reservoir are much easier to access.
The F3 Limited has movable floorboards, fore and aft.
One more thing....I recommend you buy a 2014 and up model for its 1330 cc three cylinder engine. More power, higher fuel mileage and consumes no oil.
I hope this was of some help to you.

To continue with your car analogy... we're looking for a Sedan for her!! She she does like to twist the wrist a bit to much at times! hahaha I am not so much interested in the power of the bike unless it's drastically under powered. She gets along with anything and maybe a lower power one for her to start off with would be a good thing, not that she's a dare devil.

I don't mind the Tupperware, I have two Goldwings sitting in the garage and work on others when they come to me. I am use to all that plastic.

I am not so much interested in the power of the bike. She gets along with anything and maybe a lower power one for her to start off with would be a good thing, not that she's a dare devil.

Thanks for the reply,

Tim

 

[MrMagicFingers]

Peter Aawen, I was listening... just mixed up? I thought I heard a few people mentioning that these engines would self detonate from time to time. Maybe I got mixed up with another.

We can do with out a huge amount of Sporty. No need to tempt her but tour-ability... definitely!

I am assuming that the "post recall" you are referring to is the internal oil passage plug "set screw"? I haven't got much into the "recalls" yet.

I didn't realize that the history of the motors not being ready. Interesting. Build the frame and they will come.

As far as transmissions go, I have not seen anything bad about the any of the transmissions. She would love an auto but I would like to see her back into a manual. It doesn't really matter though.

I will look into the new ECU and what it offers on those engines.

Thanks for the info. My learning curve on these is starting to look like a circle! hahaha

Tim

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....

I am assuming that the "post recall" you are referring to is the internal oil passage plug "set screw"? I haven't got much into the "recalls" yet.

NOPE: - the set screw thing hasn't really been a major problem - yet?! And it may never be... :dontknow: Not too many of these motors have self detonated - by far & away, most of these motors are still out there now and still going strong, some with well over 100,000 miles up! :lecturef_smilie: The 'post recall' I was referring to is the 'heat fix' - swapping the flush fit vents on the top/front side for air inlet panels scoops & some under-tupperware acoustic panel changes to improve airflow. :thumbup:

........

As far as transmissions go, I have not seen anything bad about the any of the transmissions. She would love an auto but I would like to see her back into a manual. It doesn't really matter though.

My point there was that BRP DO NOT make or sell a true 'auto' transmission on the Spyders - you can only get a old-style Manual, designated SM; or the SAME GEARBOX only with a slightly different clutch (no lever) and computer/electro-solenoid aided gear selection, designated SE - which is still a manual gearbox, just with enhanced clutch & gear selection! hyea:

.....

See the Bold Bits above!

 

[Freddy]

..... I am assuming that the "post recall" you are referring to is the internal oil passage plug "set screw"?......

No, the fried Spyders and fires

 

[billythekidd]

The fun you are about to have looking for a used Spyder. In one of your posts you mentioned sedan and Touring... then I would definitely say the RT. It has the most storage and to me is the most comfortable for touring. I would also recommend a 2014 or newer. I had a 2011 RT.. electrical problems left me stranded a couple of times with only 13k... 2012 RT was great.. rode it almost 23k in 20 months and it had a few issues but they were all fixed under warranty... Gas mileage for touring is about that of a Harley Sportster.. around 150 miles to the tank if you are riding at highway speeds (at 80 you can almost watch the gas gauge go down). 2014 was great.. almost 40K on that and only had one issue... the ignition switch had to be replaced because it would generate the DESS error I am sure you have seen on here... Now have a 2018 and so far no issues with it.. Theses were all RT's. The touring mileage I get on the 2014 and 2018 has been Goldwing equivalent... about 200 or so miles to a tank.

I believe the post Recall statement referred to the modifications to the bike to help it run cooler. The pre 2014's all ran pretty hot and you can see all the mods people did to them to try and make them feel cooler to the rider. The 2013 model was particularly hot and had to have a recall.

When these first came out they did not have a Touring model and it always seemed to me that initially they just threw a bunch of plastic on the first models to make a touring model. They have since refined the touring models so they are actually quite comfortable. I tried the F3 and for me it did not fit the way I like to sit no matter how much I changed things around on that... (plus I never did like the way the front looked... just a personal thing).

I also have a Polaris Slingshot... and not to be argumentative, but on that machine you sit "in" it and not on it. To me all the Sypders/Rykers are ridden on... The Slingshot is more "fun" to drive, but driving it home from Georgia to Colorado in two days (I am 6'2") I did feel a bit cramped. I know from being a Sypder owner for some time that mods are thought to be expensive, but for the Slingshot you basically need to take out a second mortgage just for mods.... .

Good luck with your search and I hope my "opinions" help shed some light for you.

 

[tntnj]

You may want to look for a used 2017 -2019 Spyder with a warranty . Take a ride on an F3 and an RT to see which one suits her. The F3 has adjustments for the riders (you fit system). Even test ride a ryker. Who Knows you may be are newest member with a spyder. (when the open back up again) Happy Hunting

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Our first Spyder was a 2010 SM5. SM=manual transmission 5=number of gears. It was the 998 V-twin motor. The 998 motors like to run in the upper rpm's. They run best around 5k rpm and get the best performance. That of course hurts fule mpg, but no one buys a motorcycle with mpg as a big concern. (They shouldn't anyway) The 1330 motors run at much lower rpm's and do better on fuel. The 1330 also comes in the SM manual transmission, OR the SE electric shift. If you do a lot of overnighters or longer trips, you might consider a trailer. The 1330 will do a bit better for pulling a trailer. The RT and the F3 are the better options for touring and riding two up. The F3 allows seating that puts the rider in a lower, sit-back kind of ride. The RT allows the rider to sit in a more upright and on top of the bike in a rider forward position. I like the RT because I sit more straight up. This helps my low back issues...

 

[Trbayth]

It's also worth considering "new", never sold 2019's and 2018's (there's still some out there.) BRP is offering big rebates to help clear out inventory now that the 2020's are hitting the dealers in quantity.

 

[PMK]

Did not it mentioned yet, but the instrument panel design changed a couple years ago and went with BRP Connect. Not sure what the opinions are now regarding the newer setup, that could be worth researching.