Hi all . I wonder if this will work . First fit after market end links , cut two pieces of steel the same diameter as existing bar , the length of which should be from fasteners on existing bar , to top of bend . Cut two . Secure with 3 U brkt on each side . This will give double strength to sway bar ( it's what we're after) This is JUST an idea and I think easy done saving a fourtune imo what do Ryker riders think . I haven't done it yet it's in my head regards Nico 75
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Stiffer sway bar
- Thread starter Nico75
- Start date
Pirate looks at --
New member
Save time and effort and in the long run MONEY, and buy the Baja Ron bar!
Switchback12
New member
Baja Ron bar might work on your Spyder but we are talking about Ryker here. I know Can Am makes both Spyder and Ryker that doesn't mean everything is interchangeable.
Baja Ron has a Ryker Sway Bar.
Grandpot
Active member
It's not that simple. What kind of steel are you planning to use? What are you going to do about heat treatment?
PMK
Active member
In theory, it seems it could work based on the simplicity of increasing the force required to twist the swaybar torsion section.
In reality, the swaybar twist very minimally as you factor in the bars entire length.
Also, the bar is twisted through the torsion areas center axis.
If you simply clamp more material against the existing bar, several possibilities could happen.
First, unless enough clamps are utilized, the secondary material will merely slip or act in a similar way accomplishing no gains. A second possibility you clamp the secondary bar very well and it does not allow any appreciable twist which reduces front grip and adds a lot of stress into the swaybar end fittings and links. Third, you guess lucky and hit the marks for clamping and gain something.
From the photos I saw, the Ryker swaybar is a simple straight bar with machined end fittings. You might do better to find a tube that slips over the existing bar, prior to installing cut a length wise slot. Slide this over the existing bar and clamp very securely.
I will offer another method to increase stiffness that is commonly used. Leave the bar as is and reduce the suspensions leverage into the bar. Do this by redeveloping the links location on the end fitting. If the end fitting allows it, add a second hole closer to the bar itself.
In reality, the swaybar twist very minimally as you factor in the bars entire length.
Also, the bar is twisted through the torsion areas center axis.
If you simply clamp more material against the existing bar, several possibilities could happen.
First, unless enough clamps are utilized, the secondary material will merely slip or act in a similar way accomplishing no gains. A second possibility you clamp the secondary bar very well and it does not allow any appreciable twist which reduces front grip and adds a lot of stress into the swaybar end fittings and links. Third, you guess lucky and hit the marks for clamping and gain something.
From the photos I saw, the Ryker swaybar is a simple straight bar with machined end fittings. You might do better to find a tube that slips over the existing bar, prior to installing cut a length wise slot. Slide this over the existing bar and clamp very securely.
I will offer another method to increase stiffness that is commonly used. Leave the bar as is and reduce the suspensions leverage into the bar. Do this by redeveloping the links location on the end fitting. If the end fitting allows it, add a second hole closer to the bar itself.
PinkRosePetal
New member
In the car world it was common to add a second bar to the first one. The second bar is to be the same shape as the original one and clamped to the end lever sections. You can't just use any old piece of steel, you need spring steel. If the second bar proves to be too stiff you can grind down the centre torsion section until it gives you what you are after.
Remember, the bar only prevents vehicle body roll, it doesn't improve the road grip and it also degrades ride quality.
Remember, the bar only prevents vehicle body roll, it doesn't improve the road grip and it also degrades ride quality.
Highwayman2013
New member
krakum1967
New member
I have an OEM RSS Sway Bar for sale with the plastic links, 20 bucks plus shipping if anyone is interested. Maybe a person could use it to experiment with this? Just saying.....anywho...moving on....lol
BajaRon
Well-known member
Actually, the sway bar does a lot more than just prevent body roll. And it does, if done correctly, greatly improve road grip without degrading ride quality, except in very specific circumstances. Like hitting a big pot-hole. Though in those instances, you are unlikely to notice the slight increase in ride harshness caused by the sway bar over the jolt you get from the pot hole itself. The sway bar will also help control wheel hop or bounce after hitting a large road anomaly like a pot hole. And, it works to maintain correct steering geometry in turns which will reduce or eliminate Over-Steer and Under-Steer conditions.
Though a sway bar is a simple piece of specialized spring steel. It performs several complex functions. Too weak and it will give you sloppy, unresponsive steering input, and tend to wander, especially in turns. Too stiff and you can get sudden loss of traction with the road surface. It is more than just a matter of 'Stiffer is Better'.
PinkRosePetal
New member
I agree with your last paragraph but otherwise we'll need to disagree on this one...the anti-roll bar is just that, it prevents body roll but there's always a compromise and that compromise causes a change in the total spring rate on each side of the vehicle and the tyre on the outside of a curve to carry more load. As the tyre carries more load the pseudo slip angle and the actual slip angle increase with the consequence of more understeer. It does have the advantage of being a safety device in some respects because the natural and usual reaction of a rider when understeering becomes excessive is to back off the throttle so reducing the understeer then the vehicle tends towards regaining its intended track.
A stiff anti-roll bar absolutely can destroy the ride quality of a vehicle.
The function of anti-roll bars is more easily understood on four wheel vehicles where they are used both front and rear to balance the vehicle's handling by applying load to the road wheels with a front/rear bias during cornering. However, the same laws of physics still apply to a three wheel vehicle where only one end of the vehicle is adjusted for cornering stiffness.
If the front suspension is well designed, it will actually enhance cornering as the vehicle body rolls. It can be made to increase negative camber and assist the flexed and stressed tyre where it is highly side loaded and distorted from its natural shape.
I do understand that the feeling of staying more level in a corner is a good one, it gives the impression of better road holding and there is less stress on the rider. Provided it is done cautiously an anti-roll bar can certainly enhance the handling of a vehicle and make it more pleasurable to drive, but, as mentioned, there is always a compromise. If that compromise suites, that's perfectly fine.
PMK
Active member
Not sure if the original poster wants to experiment, whether bolts on arms or a shaped bar, relocating the links closer to the bars axis can increase stiffness. Just not sure if that is viable on these Rykers.
ThreeWheels
Active member
I understand the desire to experiment and go "where no man has gone before".
The simple fact is, BajaRon has already gone there and succeeded far beyond your wildest imagination.
You'd be better off spending your time and effort getting BajaRon's bar and with your remainder, buy beer and plan trips.
Just my opinion. I could be wrong. If I am, I'm sure a whole host of my fellow posters will let me know.
The simple fact is, BajaRon has already gone there and succeeded far beyond your wildest imagination.
You'd be better off spending your time and effort getting BajaRon's bar and with your remainder, buy beer and plan trips.
Just my opinion. I could be wrong. If I am, I'm sure a whole host of my fellow posters will let me know.
Highwayman2013
New member
I agree, I have put Bajaron's sway bar on my Ryker and it works wonderfully.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Here is a great article by Grassroots Motorsports on suspension and handling as affected by the sway bar. It also touches on how shocks and springs affect handling and ride. The full article has a great deal of information, but probably more depth than most are inclined to want. So, for the quick and dirty heart of the discussion, I recommend scrolling down to these 3 short sections. The more you know about something, the better equipped you are to make an informed decision and not have to take someone else's word for it.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/lean-less/
Why Is Body Roll a Bad Thing?
How to Prevent Body Roll
How an Anti-Roll Bar Works
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/lean-less/
Why Is Body Roll a Bad Thing?
How to Prevent Body Roll
How an Anti-Roll Bar Works
PMK
Active member
Take a look at each end of the bar itself. Is there adequate room to add a second link hole on each end of the bar? The distance does not need to be much between hole centers. Not for the Spyder, but for some vehicles, the bars come with several holes, allowing adjustment from a softer setting for more front grip, to a firmer setting when grip is high.
PinkRosePetal
New member
Yeh, an ok article but a bit simplistic. The reference to body roll increasing camber as though that is a fixed truth is misleading. There are various suspension designs which produce different camber variations, indeed, it's possible to design a suspension where body roll reduces positive camber into negative camber, and there's also the solid axle suspension where there is virtually no camber change but still using anti-roll bars.
However, it does confirm the important point I was making earlier, namely that adding roll stiffness to a front axle increases the slip angle and creates an understeer condition.
I'm pleased too that there was mention of the front to rear bias with regard to safe handling characteristics. Adding a front anti-roll bar changes this bias and hence the handling balance.
Something which I've not seen mentioned with regard to the Spyder is that as the chassis rolls so does the rear swing arm and this has the effect of rolling the rear tyre onto its edge with a consequent change in grip and slip angle. When an anti-roll bar limits body roll the slip angle at the rear tyre is changed from that of the original design parameters.
Food for thought.
