Brake failure

[NU2Spyder]

Wondering if anyone experienced the following. When braking, the travel is too far. The travel causes the foot board to release: brake light comes on: brake failure emits: and the braking is sluggish. The mechanic said he hasn't seen this on the type of braking system. He checked it with a unit on the floor and found the ratchet mechanism that takes up the distance of brake wear wasn't working properly. Ordered a replacement with oil change @ $1000.00. I have a 14 RT-S if that makes a difference. Please shed any light on the subject and any advice would be appreciated. FYI, don't know when/if I get ride back due to the flooding here in South LA. ray:

 

[billybovine]

I think there is some miscommunication between you and your mechanic. From your description it sounds like a master cylinder failure. There is no ratcheting mechanism to make up for brake pad wear. It's all done by fluid. The brake pedal got soft and traveled too far. Causing the low pressure fault and the floorboard to drop to allow more brake pedal travel. It worked like it was suppose to when the brakes started to fail.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

" He hasn't seen this on the type of Braking system " …. this may be the biggest part of the issue He may not know what He is doing !!!! ....( besides the $1000.00 bill!!!! ) …. RT's that have floorboards as stock, have the ability to bend (?) if the Brake peddle is forced down past it's Normal distance of travel ( ordinary brake force ). From your description I think either you Don't have enough Brake Fluid in the system or the Pads are very, very worn … Make sure your system is Full ….. I had this after I did my own Brake job, I didn't have enough fluid and the peddle was soft - after adding 3-4 0z that corrected the problem and gave me a very firm peddle …. Mike hyea: ...PS Billy types faster than me :roflblack:

 

[billythekidd]

On my 2014 I put new pads and Rotors on and one of the rotors was warped.. It moved the pads further away from the rotor and caused the exact symptoms you are referring to. I changed the rotor and made sure with the wheel off that is was spinning without rubbing or pushing the pads and the problem went away. In my case everything was working great until I changed pads and rotors... Then the exact problem you are talking about occurred.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing..

The only ratcheting system I know is the parking brake on the manual 998 models mostly GS, RS ,RSS. Too much travel on the pedal will be a fluid level, pads or bleeding issue...:spyder:

 

[jcoats1]

It may just be air in system. Has anyone worked on brakes recently? Maybe at the same time the problem started? Get some one to bleed brakes before you start replacing parts, preferably NOT the guy that wants to replace some ratcheting mechanism that dosen't exist.....

 

[ARtraveler]

I would go with the pads and fluid checks before spending the $1K suggested by the dealership. The dealer description of the issue was off pudding.

 

[canamjhb]

I wonder just what ratcheting system the mechanic ordered.....? I would run away from this shop FAST. I would be terrified having this mechanic work on my brake system knowing he hasn't seen this system before and needs to look at a floor model (vs proper training) to try to figure out how it works..... Jim

 

[NU2Spyder]

I checked/added break fluid before I took it in for service. Had no effect. Thanks for your input, I welcome it.

 

[NU2Spyder]

I wasn't expecting as many responses, thanks. The mech said he drained and refilled the fluid (with no avail) before having to check on how the mechanism worked on another bike. Also confirmed that the floor board was working properly to allow for the extra travel.

 

[Mikey]

I think there is some miscommunication between you and your mechanic. From your description it sounds like a master cylinder failure. There is no ratcheting mechanism to make up for brake pad wear. It's all done by fluid. The brake pedal got soft and traveled too far. Causing the low pressure fault and the floorboard to drop to allow more brake pedal travel. It worked like it was suppose to when the brakes started to fail.

Don't the back caliper ratchet to keep the pads where they should be, that's why you have to rotate that rotor to put new pads on!!

 

[JayBros]

There is a "ratchet" type mechanism on the rear caliper if that's what it is called I don't know for the parking brake. That is why when one replaces pads on the rear caliper one must screw the piston clockwise with needle nose pliers or one of Bajaron's tools. Sounds to me like the technician needs a glass navel.

 

[Thopper]

Glass Navel.....this is a new on to me. Is this sarcasm, new tool or none of the above?

 

[JayBros]

Sarcasm for where his brain is.

Related to the OP's problem, when I replaced brake pads and front rotors a couple of months ago (rear rotor replaced three weeks ago with new tire), my brake fluid had had its two year flush in 10/18 and the master cylinder was full. As a result, when I pushed the front caliper pistons fully back into the calipers and screwed the rear piston all the way back in I was very careful to remove from the master cylinder fluid that had become excess because of the thickness of the new pads. I then pressed the brake pedal and in two cases, once for the fronts and once for the rear caliper, the pedal traveled so far the floorboard dropped as it is supposed to do. On the second press the pedal was very firm. I then topped of each master cylinder reservoir. Only after this process did I turn on the ignition key, start the Spyder and formally test the brake pedal which was max firm. I then went out and did the panic stop procedure to bed the pads. No problem, no codes. If one turns on the ignition key and pumps the brake pedal before following the above procedure one risks a brake failure warning/code.

 

[NU2Spyder]

Thanks again for all of the inputs. The problem is, I did not change brakes, pads, or rotors. I checked brake fluid as the symptoms just showed up and gradually got worse. Will keep you posted as to results.

 

[JayBros]

If the problem came on gradually then I'd guess something may be wrong with the master cylinder. I can't see the price either. A new rear caliper is $415 something and a tandem master cylinder is 257. If the technician had to look at another bike on the floor that shows inexperience. You should ask the service manager to open a case with BRP before you lay out any coin of the realm for parts.

 

[h0gr1der]

There is a "ratchet" type mechanism on the rear caliper if that's what it is called I don't know for the parking brake. That is why when one replaces pads on the rear caliper one must screw the piston clockwise with needle nose pliers or one of Bajaron's tools. Sounds to me like the technician needs a glass navel.

Glass navel, very similar to a Radical Plexiotomy. A surgical procedure where they take your stomach muscles and skin off and replace it with Plexiglas so you can see where you're going with your head up your @$$. I've seen this required often around dealerships.

My sales rep at the dealership didn't even know about the drop away brake floorboard, wanted to charge me $1200 to install a ISCI handbrake because "it requires a complex bleeding procedure", and several more fabrications. Watch these guys closely, they think because you ride a Spyder you are an easy mark!

 

[NU2Spyder]

Final note on break failure.. Picked up Spyder today. Ended up being???? Rear brake caliper $415.00: Oil Change Kit $85.00: and labor $385.00 (3.5 hrs). Not bad considering the only maintenance other than regular oil changes on 4 year old bike. Now I need to adjust belt spacing and check tension. Guess I will be purchasing a Krikit or whatever you call it. Also picked up form grip covers (in mail box) from Lamonster. Great product, great service, great price. Plus I loved the extra unexpected goodies.

 

[Thopper]

Geez..caliper $415.00...I gues Iwill be in for a future repair surprise down the road.....a long road I hope!