What's the Best no clunk oil?

[spyder01]

I am using Rottella T6 now and I think its actually more clunky than with the original factory fill.Has anyone found a brand that is less clunky?If I shut it down and start it up like 10 minutes later it still clunks going into gear.Maybe someone has a favorite procedure for shutdown that makes it less likely to clunk upon startup?

 

[JayBros]

The clunk occurs because of the design of the transmission. When you start the Spyder it's in neutral and the rest of the gears in the tranny are turning, therefore when you shift to first or reverse the tranny clunks; there's nothing you can do about it. FWIW, when I switched from XPS to Mobil 1 and then to Amsoil I noticed no change in the clunking but shifting through the gears became smoother with the full synthetic oil. Ride more, worry less.

 

[Peter Aawen]

:agree: That's exactly it!! :2thumbs:

And in fact, if that clunk you get when initially shifting into first or reverse goes away, it can sometimes mean that you've got something wrong with your clutch/transmission!! Usually it's an 'expensive to fix' &/or a 'Do not proceed' type of something wrong! :shocked:

So as the man said, Ride More, Worry Less! :thumbup:

 

[AeroPilot]

I too cringe at the first clunk of the ride after starting my RT. While it is the "nature of the beast" I occasionally can avoid the WHAM by hitting the shift paddle within the first 1/2 second of the motor firing off...I don't know what isnt up to speed yet, but just a tweak to try. Remember the right foot is on the brake.

Sometimes it works sometimes not, like Jay & Pete says Ryde More, .........

 

[BajaRon]

You could probably get the clunk to go away with 90-140 gear lube. But then nothing else in the transmission would work so it would be self defeating. The clunk is engineered into the shifting mechanism. Not that they want the clunk. But to get everything else they want out of the transmission, the clunk just comes with the package. Everything in life is a trade-off. The goal is to get as much of what you want with a minimum of what you don't want. This is the challenge of life!

Getting an oil that will give you smoother shifting and less wear for a longer service interval is probably a more obtainable goal.

 

[LeftCoast]

The clunk occurs because of the design of the transmission. When you start the Spyder it's in neutral and the rest of the gears in the tranny are turning, therefore when you shift to first or reverse the tranny clunks; there's nothing you can do about it. FWIW, when I switched from XPS to Mobil 1 and then to Amsoil I noticed no change in the clunking but shifting through the gears became smoother with the full synthetic oil. Ride more, worry less.

I’m glad you said this. I had synthetic in mine but when they did the oil change this year the put in the BRP recommended stuff. I think it clunks more between gears than it used to.

 

[Bob Denman]

"Clunk happens..."
Accept it, and move on... :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

Try This....

I have found that if you rev the engine up before shifting and release the rpm's will drop below idle before normalizing to the set idle. If you shift at the lowest point the clunk will be much less. Depending on where you ryde and the weather you could go for a heavier oil but it will basically only help till the oil get hot. Not much else you can do. The manuals like mine you can start in gear and avoid the clunk ....:thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

To lessen the clunk, watch your tach until the rpms dip down around 1300,1400. You will get much less clunk. Of you are shifting right after you start you are at 1700,1800 rpms and bet a much louder clunk.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You could probably get the clunk to go away with 90-140 gear lube. But then nothing else in the transmission would work so it would be self defeating. The clunk is engineered into the shifting mechanism. Not that they want the clunk. But to get everything else they want out of the transmission, the clunk just comes with the package. Everything in life is a trade-off. The goal is to get as much of what you want with a minimum of what you don't want. This is the challenge of life!

Getting an oil that will give you smoother shifting and less wear for a longer service interval is probably a more obtainable goal.

:agree: ………...Finely ground " SAWDUST " also should stop the clunk :gaah::roflblack:………… however the CLUNK is supposed to there, the transmission design is why it clunks …. Mike hyea:

 

[BajaRon]

:agree: ………...Finely ground " SAWDUST " also should stop the clunk :gaah::roflblack:………… however the CLUNK is supposed to there, the transmission design is why it clunks …. Mike hyea:

Very true! When the clunk goes away... THEN you should WORRY!:yikes:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

To lessen the clunk, watch your tach until the rpms dip down around 1300,1400. You will get much less clunk. Of you are shifting right after you start you are at 1700,1800 rpms and bet a much louder clunk.

:agree::agree: ….. As the engine/transmission oil heats up, there is definitely less of a clunk...… But since the CLUNK is only a sound ( not damaging anything ) ….. Waiting till the Idle speed comes down will make the clunk less of an issue ….. Mike hyea:

 

[PMK]

On our 14 RTS, fresh oil and the clunk is pretty soft. Even with the oil approaching the 5000 mile change interval I use, most times the clunk is not harsh. The oil I use is a 10w40, which when cold, is more viscous than a 5w40, so that likely helps too.

 

[spyder01]

Ok thanks I will try to shift at a lower rpm and see if that helps.

 

[2dogs]

Try a table spoon of caster oil. My grandmother said caster oil cures just about anything. Let us know if it works and if it does we'll all try it. LOL