• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Please educate me about tire sizes

gianfri

New member
Hello, I need to replace the tires of my 2014 RT. I am confused about the size. I currently have 165/55R15 in the front and 225/50R15 in the rear (I think these are stock original tires). I am looking at car tires and cannot find an exact size match. What are the numbers that I must match? And for the other numbers, what differences in riding experience should I expect if I depart from what I currently have?

Thanks!
 
Newb Tire Questions- Newb to Newb

Quick answer is there is little to no support for our exact tire size, AND IMHO the O.E. tires are raging crap. So with all that said, here goes. I'm a newb going through the same things.

Combinations that work (from what I've read).

175/55R15 Front with 205/60R15 Rear. Using generic numbers there's about 1.8% difference from O.E. roll-out overall.

175/60R15 (165/65R15 alternate) Front and 215/60R15 Rear. Same as above, but even less rolling difference. .4% from O.E. tires roll-out.

Why is the difference in tire rollout important? I don't know for sure, but I've read some references to the Nanny (this thing has more computer control than the space shuttle) having a problem with overly large rear tires, causing limp home mode. Good idea to keep the ratios of increase front to rear the same, or as close to the same as feasible. Understand, each tire manufacturer may not have the exact spec size for a given sidewall measurement, meaning one guys 205/60R15 may be larger or smaller diameter and/or width than the other guys.

There is a few tire brands I've read about. I'm currently trying the Vredestein Quatrac 5. You have to source them from different places. Tire rack has the fronts, Vulcan tire has the rear, but they have a 1 month processing time for the single tire.

Other brands I've read good things about. General Altimax RT43 for the Rear. Yokohama S Drives. Continental ContactPro. It's hard to match front and rear brands and styles. Check the UTQG and traction ratings. The Altimax has a 700 UTQG rating, which may mean a whole lot of mileage before wearing out. Better if you like traveling more, wrenching less. May not handle as good, but I can't comment on that as I haven't run one. My first set is the Vredesteins, they have a UTQG rating of 400. Kind of a mid range mileage tire. But may stick better because of softer compound. Dry handling isn't as important to me as wet handling because of my driving style. Slick roads pose the biggest hazard to me, so that's what I focus on. Some other brands of tires not mentioned here lose wet traction at about half wear (as reviewed by others). Read a lot, search hard and long before making your decision. A poor choice on the front is easily remedied, a lot of car tire places can mount new ones for cheap. The rear is a pretty big obligation to change, so make a wise choice.

Also, be aware you are running car tires, designed to carry more weight than the Spyder. You may be using less air pressure than you are used to. I'm currently in tire testing, and I'm down to 18 PSI on my front 175/55R15 Veredesteins. (Read about the tire 4 PSI rule). At 20 PSI, the tires only increased 2 PSI, indicating a slightly high pressure. I've lowered the pressure to 18 PSI, waiting on weather to re-test.

Do not decrease the pressure on the Kenda tires. I had 28 PSI in the rear for the first test and it did build to 32 PSI. My front Kenda's came off at 804 miles due to unable to balance. They were out of round. With Kenda it's hit or miss. I got some bad ones. Weighed each tire, there was a 10 ounce difference in the weights.

Hope this helps to start the journey.
 
Tire discussions ranging from what size... to what brand... to even what type: have been ongoing in here ever since these things have been on the market. :banghead:
I hate to say it; but my head hurts from them!
If you use the "Search" feature: you'll have enough reading for a lifetime!
Happy hunting! :D
 
Google the front tire size and you will find options. I use the Federal Formoza AZ01 in the stock size,. The rear is harder but the 215/60/15 size has many options and I am using a General Altimax RT43.
 
Tire discussions ranging from what size... to what brand... to even what type: have been ongoing in here ever since these things have been on the market. :banghead:
I hate to say it; but my head hurts from them!
If you use the "Search" feature: you'll have enough reading for a lifetime!
Happy hunting! :D

That is exactly my problem. I just do not understand what measures from my original tires can be different in the new tire. I suspect the wheel size (15) cannot be changed. How about the first two numbers (in my case, 225/50 rear and 165/55 front)? Can those be different from the original tires? If so, by how much? And what is the effect of a greater or smaller number?
 
Google the front tire size and you will find options. I use the Federal Formoza AZ01 in the stock size,. The rear is harder but the 215/60/15 size has many options and I am using a General Altimax RT43.

I was looking at the same front tires: Federal Formoza AZ01 All-Season Radial Tire - 165/55R15, same size as my current ones.

The current rear size is 225/50R15. Can I exchange for a 215/60R15? If so, what difference would that make to the riding? and can that be matched with front size 165/55R15?

As you can see, my knowledge in the area is quite limited. Thanks!
 
Yes, they can be changed. Usually going up or down one step/ size causes no problems and may cure some. BUT----- please read the many tire topics that have already been discussed here for your answer--- as it may not be my answer.
 
You surmised right about the 15 gianfri, which is the rim dia the tire is made to fit on expressed in inches (yeah, I know the units are a mix of imperial & metric, but that's just the way it is!?) The 225 bit of 225/50R15 is the width of the tire body in millimetres, not necessarily the tread width altho it's going to be fairly close; while the 50 is the sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the 225mm. Similarly, the 165 of 165/55 is width in mm, with 55 being the sidewall height as a percentage of the 165mm.

Rear tires can't go much wider, due to the belt & sprocket, but they can go a little taller, ie, 225/60R15's will generally fit on an RT - the only increase is sidewall height, but that does mean the rolling diameter of the tire will generally be a little larger. For that reason many drop the width, ie, go for a 215 or even a 205, as well as a taller sidewall height, ie 60 or possibly even 65, in an attempt to keep the rolling diameter close to the same as the OE tire. Usually, you'd select a 215/60 or a 205/65, but just to make things a little more difficult, the tire sizes shown on the sidewalls are only NOMINAL, and very few tires with the same sidewall nominal size are actually physically the same size.... they are just somewhere about that nominal size, altho the differences can be as much as 20mm or more difference in rolling diameter!!

Front tires can go a bit wider but not much taller, the max for the 15" rims generally being about a 175/60, altho there are a few who've managed to find & fit 185/50's or even a (small) 185/65!! Still, I'd work to 175/60 being about as big as you'd want to try without a test fit, and even so, you might need to ease the lip of the fender over the tire during fitting, just to get it on - once on, they usually run OK if the fender supports aren't bent, altho some have swapped all the hex head screws under the fender for dome type phillips head screws to minimise the chance of the screw heads rubbing on the tires as they rotate.

Why go bigger, apart from finding a tire to fit that isn't the OE stuff? A slightly larger tire size will generally have a slightly larger footprint on the road, and it's that footprint that provides traction. A larger area can mean better grip, especially if the footprint has increased proportionally more in length (along the line of travel) than it has increased in width, but that traction increase & to a certain extent, the longer more than wider footprint generally only occurs if the tire's pressure is a little lower, and that's a whole 'nuther discussion. Still, if the footprint is a longer than it is wide footprint, you'll generally get better traction/grip & directional stability and depending upon the wheel alignment being correct, you can also get a longer tread life to go with that better grip. The risks are that a less efficient tread pattern on a larger tire (especially wider) can mean there's slightly more propensity for hydro-planing, but once again tire pressure plays a big part in avoiding that; and a longer &/or wider footprint will make for a little more steering effort, but with the increases in length & width we are talking about here, you'd need some fairly sensitive equipment to measure it, unless there were other issues at play (like poor wheel alignment for one...)

The slightly narrower but taller profile rear tire can mean marginally less outright traction on dry roads, but a good wet weather tread pattern can counter that minor issue by providing noticeably better traction, especially in wet weather & less propensity for hydro-planing on wet roads; and the slightly larger rolling diameter will not only help make the (by manufacturers design) up to 10% optomistic speedo/odo readings more accurate, bringing them to within 1 or 2 mph/miles of actual instead of reading over as they do, but it will also help the tire achieve a longer tread life & have less of a tendency to 'throw the center of the tread out whole rotating' so the tire shouldn't wear the center of the tread out anywhere near as much as the OE Spec tires do!

Help any gianfri?
 
Last edited:
You surmised right about the 15 gianfri, which is the rim dia the tire is made to fit on expressed in inches (yeah, I know the units are a mix of imperial & metric, but that's just the way it is!?) The 225 bit of 225/50R15 is the width of the tire body in millimetres, not necessarily the tread width altho it's going to be fairly close; while the 50 is the sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the 225mm. Similarly, the 165 of 165/55 is width in mm, with 55 being the sidewall height as a percentage of the 165mm.

Rear tires can't go much wider, due to the belt & sprocket, but they can go a little taller, ie, 225/60R15's will generally fit on an RT - the only increase is sidewall height, but that does mean the rolling diameter of the tire will generally be a little larger. For that reason many drop the width, ie, go for a 215 or even a 205, as well as a taller sidewall height, ie 60 or possibly even 65, in an attempt to keep the rolling diameter close to the same as the OE tire. Usually, you'd select a 215/60 or a 205/65, but just to make things a little more difficult, the tire sizes shown on the sidewalls are only NOMINAL, and very few tires with the same sidewall nominal size are actually physically the same size.... they are just somewhere about that nominal size, altho the differences can be as much as 20mm or more difference in rolling diameter!!

Front tires can go a bit wider but not much taller, the max for the 15" rims generally being about a 175/60, altho there are a few who've managed to find & fit 185/50's or even a (small) 185/65!! Still, I'd work to 175/60 being about as big as you'd want to try without a test fit, and even so, you might need to ease the lip of the fender over the tire during fitting, just to get it on - once on, they usually run OK if the fender supports aren't bent, altho some have swapped all the hex head screws under the fender for dome type phillips head screws to minimise the chance of the screw heads rubbing on the tires as they rotate.

Why go bigger, apart from finding a tire to fit that isn't the OE stuff? A slightly larger tire size will generally have a slightly larger footprint on the road, and it's that footprint that provides traction. A larger area can mean better grip, especially if the footprint has increased proportionally more in length (along the line of travel) than it has increased in width, but that traction increase & to a certain extent, the longer more than wider footprint generally only occurs if the tire's pressure is a little lower, and that's a whole 'nuther discussion. Still, if the footprint is a longer than it is wide footprint, you'll generally get better traction/grip & directional stability and depending upon the wheel alignment being correct, you can also get a longer tread life to go with that better grip. The risks are that a less efficient tread pattern on a larger tire (especially wider) can mean there's slightly more propensity for hydro-planing, but once again tire pressure plays a big part in avoiding that; and a longer &/or wider footprint will make for a little more steering effort, but with the increases in length & width we are talking about here, you'd need some fairly sensitive equipment to measure it, unless there were other issues at play (like poor wheel alignment for one...)

The slightly narrower but taller profile rear tire can mean marginally less outright traction on dry roads, but a good wet weather tread pattern can counter that minor issue by providing noticeably better traction, especially in wet weather & less propensity for hydro-planing on wet roads; and the slightly larger rolling diameter will not only help make the (by manufacturers design) up to 10% optomistic speedo/odo readings more accurate, bringing them to within 1 or 2 mph/miles of actual instead of reading over as they do, but it will also help the tire achieve a longer tread life & have less of a tendency to 'throw the center of the tread out whole rotating' so the tire shouldn't wear the center of the tread out anywhere near as much as the OE Spec tires do!

Help any gianfri?

Fantastic explanation, thanks. So right now I am considering the 215/60R15 General for the rear (to replace the current 225/50R15) and the federal 165/55R15 (same size as the current tires) for the front. It sounds from your writing that that should be a good combination, do you agree? Thank you!
 
I just changed my fronts to 165/55/15 Federal Formoza AZ01 at only 10,000 miles and they looked fine. But my fellow Spyder Riders recommended the AZ01 for better cornering and ride quality. I looked all over trying to find them, but found them online at WalMart.com shipped for free. $108.00 for the pair. Had them mounted at my favorite tire shop partly cuz WalMart shop was hectic. And I had them filled with Nitrogen.
 
gianfri, Many of us have been through the learning process you are experiencing. There is a lot of good information in this thread in addition to others that have been previously posted. The short story..... You can usually go up or down one size on either or both axels without upsetting nanny. If you go with a 215/60R15 rear, you will eliminate almost all error that your speedo has. Whichever brand CT you choose will be a good improvement over the Kendas. After much head scratching and indecision, I settled on a General Altimax RT43, 215/60R15 for the rear. For the fronts I went with Federal Formoza AZ01 at 175/55R15. All fit well and I am happy with the performance. I went with the 175 fronts instead of the 165s because I wanted a little more rubber on the road. (And I think they look better.) I have just a little over 20,000 miles on these tires and they look great. I expect many, many more miles from them. And I run 18psi in all 3 tires. Hope this helps a little. Good luck..... Jim
 
gianfri, Many of us have been through the learning process you are experiencing. There is a lot of good information in this thread in addition to others that have been previously posted. The short story..... You can usually go up or down one size on either or both axels without upsetting nanny. If you go with a 215/60R15 rear, you will eliminate almost all error that your speedo has. Whichever brand CT you choose will be a good improvement over the Kendas. After much head scratching and indecision, I settled on a General Altimax RT43, 215/60R15 for the rear. For the fronts I went with Federal Formoza AZ01 at 175/55R15. All fit well and I am happy with the performance. I went with the 175 fronts instead of the 165s because I wanted a little more rubber on the road. (And I think they look better.) I have just a little over 20,000 miles on these tires and they look great. I expect many, many more miles from them. And I run 18psi in all 3 tires. Hope this helps a little. Good luck..... Jim

You're right, there's a lot of good information. Nothing can replace stories from real people who went through the same process. Thank you!!
Did you have any problems fitting the bigger front tires in the fender?
 
gianfri, I'll piggy back Highwayman2013 above and I too use the Federal Formoza AZ01 in the stock size. The rear is harder but the 215/60/15 size has many options and I am using a General Altimax RT43.
 
Fantastic explanation, thanks. So right now I am considering the 215/60R15 General for the rear (to replace the current 225/50R15) and the federal 165/55R15 (same size as the current tires) for the front. It sounds from your writing that that should be a good combination, do you agree? Thank you!

If you are doing the rear tire now and the front tires later, there's a slight possibility that you'll have a few more Nanny interventions once you've got the bigger rear tire fitted and before the fronts go on, because the OE Spec Kendas are 'small' tires & the General & Federals aren't. So if you fit the rear first & give your Spyder a 'tail up' attitude, the Nanny might react to a few corners or other things she wouldn't normally get upset by, but it shouldn't hamper your normal ryding or in fact even spirited ryding much at all, she'll just kick in a touch earlier every now and then. And it'll only last until you fit the fronts too. However, if you are replacing all your tires at once, I reckon you'll be so pleased to be suddenly ryding on tires that grip & point & turn in when you want them to and all those other things that good tires do you'll be so stoked, and your 'miles of smiles' grin will be even wider!! :thumbup:
 
If you are doing the rear tire now and the front tires later, there's a slight possibility that you'll have a few more Nanny interventions once you've got the bigger rear tire fitted and before the fronts go on, because the OE Spec Kendas are 'small' tires & the General & Federals aren't. So if you fit the rear first & give your Spyder a 'tail up' attitude, the Nanny might react to a few corners or other things she wouldn't normally get upset by, but it shouldn't hamper your normal ryding or in fact even spirited ryding much at all, she'll just kick in a touch earlier every now and then. And it'll only last until you fit the fronts too. However, if you are replacing all your tires at once, I reckon you'll be so pleased to be suddenly ryding on tires that grip & point & turn in when you want them to and all those other things that good tires do you'll be so stoked, and your 'miles of smiles' grin will be even wider!! :thumbup:
How about if I do the front first?
 
Back
Top