• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Wheels falling off?

The guy who made the videos claims he heard the noise and saw the fender vibrating at least a day before he found the nut loose and continued to ride it without thoroughly checking into it.
I do think Can Am should have furnished a tool to fit this nut, I will be getting a socket to fit.
If it was rattling and vibrating it would have been loose enough to turn by hand or shake back and forth, so a little basic diagnostic time would have prevented further damage to the wheel and pins.
 
There appears to be a potential issues with the wheels on the Rykers. For those on youtube look up videos by T47 Productions. There are 3 videos by this person who had one front wheel fall off and the other is close to falling off. The dealer and BRP are involved and investigating.
It appears that for an undetermined reason the wheel alignment pins came loose.
Please check these on your machine.
I haven't seen this reported here so it doesn't appear to be widespread.
-- jim

He has it backwards and so do you. The wheel came loose and that is what worked the rotor pins loose from the wallowing of the wheel on the hub. The pins DO NOT hold the wheel on, they only lock the brake rotor to the wheel for brake force. This really seems to be a simple matter of wheels not being properly affixed to the bike (torqued properly) before he rode it. There is not a design problem or they would all be affected. There are a great many with far more than 800 miles on them. I am sorry for his problems but they are with his dealer for not properly assembling the bike prior to delivery. They now need to fix the carnage and get him back on his bike.
 
canceling my plans to purchase a Ryker until this problem is resolved! This is not my idea of riding my bike until the wheels fall off. Can-am needs to step up and resolve. It is not the owners responsibility. Dlr should pickup bike and fix or refund purchase price to owner.
 
JC, just a minor FYI. In the list of parts you said will need to be replaced you list hub. From what I see on the parts diagram there is no hub. Instead, it's a short axle that is supported by ball bearings inside the steering knuckle.

Yes that is the part I was referring to. If the french to english translated parts diagram is calling it an axel then so be it. That part is referred to as a hub on other vehicles. I did not look up the part name in the BRP system.
 
canceling my plans to purchase a Ryker until this problem is resolved! This is not my idea of riding my bike until the wheels fall off. Can-am needs to step up and resolve. It is not the owners responsibility. Dlr should pickup bike and fix or refund purchase price to owner.

Actually, you'd probably cancel any plans to purchase any vehicle based on this protocol. There isn't a mechanical device yet made that hasn't had grave issues somewhere along the line.

In reality, I do not think there is a problem here beyond bad assembly at the dealership. We've had 1 issue like this and the only information we have about it is a likely misdiagnosis by an owner. I don't mean to demean the guy. And I am not saying he doesn't have a serious problem. But he is more mad than meticulous and gives out some obviously bad information in the video I saw.

Everyone should do what they think best. It's your money and your decision. If it were me, I'd get the Ryker as soon as possible and happily ride off into the sunset. I just wouldn't get it from the same dealership that this guy unfortunately did.
 
Actually, you'd probably cancel any plans to purchase any vehicle based on this protocol. There isn't a mechanical device yet made that hasn't had grave issues somewhere along the line.

In reality, I do not think there is a problem here beyond bad assembly at the dealership. We've had 1 issue like this and the only information we have about it is a likely misdiagnosis by an owner. I don't mean to demean the guy. And I am not saying he doesn't have a serious problem. But he is more mad than meticulous and gives out some obviously bad information in the video I saw.

Everyone should do what they think best. It's your money and your decision. If it were me, I'd get the Ryker as soon as possible and happily ride off into the sunset. I just wouldn't get it from the same dealership that this guy unfortunately did.

Exactly, bad dealer delivery and 1 bad experience doesn't make for a rash decision. But, some of this responsibility definitely falls on the owner for not doing pre-ride inspections.
 
I think you're right. This most likely was a torque issue at the dealer.

I'm never going to torque this myself. Do you think this would be covered by the dealer (gratis) if I just wanted them to test the torque strength? I've only got 300mi myself but would this be a good preventative measure, "just in case"? Are any of you considering having your dealer check?
 
I'm never going to torque this myself. Do you think this would be covered by the dealer (gratis) if I just wanted them to test the torque strength? I've only got 300mi myself but would this be a good preventative measure, "just in case"? Are any of you considering having your dealer check?

Just put a mark from the hub nut to the hub. If the hub nut starts to back off at all you'll be able to tell. But truthfully, if the wheel gets lose at all you're going to have very noticeable issues with the front end long before a wheel actually comes off.

I fear that we are making a mountain out of a mole hill here folks. To me it is a dealer mistake combined with a rider who was not paying attention when things started to go south. I don't think his wheel actually came off (for a number of reasons). And I am not convinced that it would come completely off anyway.

What we have here is a great deal of speculation based (frankly) on statements made by someone who doesn't know what he's talking about. I don't mean to be harsh. The poor guy has gotten a raw deal, no doubt. But it isn't anything more than that. If you're worried about getting a raw deal from your dealer, that's one thing. But to say the Ryker has a major safety issue based on this guys problem is a mistake.
 
He said his dealer was in San Angelo that is west Texas. The Woodlands is near Houston and is about 350 miles from San Angelo. Unlikely to be the same dealer.
 
Last edited:
canceling my plans to purchase a Ryker until this problem is resolved! This is not my idea of riding my bike until the wheels fall off. Can-am needs to step up and resolve. It is not the owners responsibility. Dlr should pickup bike and fix or refund purchase price to owner.
Just don't buy from his dealer. Sound like you were not ready to buy anyway. There's a lot of Rykers on the road having good time. Don't let 1 dealer change your mind. This is not BRP's fault. It is the dealer. Wheel did not fall off while riding.
 
Just for grins, I checked my existing 1/2" drive torque wrench. It has settings up to 250 ft-lbs. I don't think that is out of the ordinary. I certainly wouldn't expect any decent dealer shop to need a different torque wrench just for Ryker hubs.
 
Yes that is the part I was referring to. If the french to english translated parts diagram is calling it an axel then so be it. That part is referred to as a hub on other vehicles. I did not look up the part name in the BRP system.
At the risk of being accused of being anal about something that really doesn't matter, I'll respond. It's a case of two entirely different physical configurations of the parts at the center of the wheel. With the Spyder, and most all other vehicles, the wheel is mounted on the hub. The hub rotates on the spindle which is an integral part of the steering knuckle. With the Ryker there is no spindle, only a big hole in the steering knuckle. The axle (really a stub axle to my way of thinking) is fitted into the bore in the knuckle. It is the rotating member of the assembly. To my way of thinking with the Ryker the hub would be the center portion of the wheel that directly fits onto the axle!

I believe the part names are different because the parts are not even similar.
 
canceling my plans to purchase a Ryker until this problem is resolved! This is not my idea of riding my bike until the wheels fall off. Can-am needs to step up and resolve. It is not the owners responsibility. Dlr should pickup bike and fix or refund purchase price to owner.

Can-Am did nothing wrong. They created a fantastic machine that uses centerlock hubs like a Formula 1 car. Just because this guys idiot dealer cant grasp the concept of 225ft/lb of torque on a lug nut, and this guy (being a dealer himself) refuses to blame his dealer, he is creating a nonsense conspiracy.
 
I also found photographs of Rally front and rear wheels on an "un-named" auction. The alignment pins in the front wheel appear to project the same distance from the wheel and have a groove in the distal end. The rear wheels appear to be threaded and likely bolt to the disk.

ryker wheel.jpg

ryker rear wheel.jpg
 
Back
Top