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Wheels falling off?

Your wheels are NOT going to fall off! IF the nut happens to loosen up, the red clip keeps it from coming off. The 3 pins he's talking about have absolutely nothing to do with the wheel possibly coming off. They are pressed into the wheel and they normally stick about 1/4" past the brake disc. Their only purpose is to connect the wheel to the brake disc (the brake disc has 3 holes they fit into). Without them the brake disc would just spin. So if they should happen to come out, you would just have no brakes on that wheel (but you have 2 other brakes so you could have time to stop). Where he shows them "backing out" is normal.
 
I didn't watch his 1st video. Looks to be a lot of language there and I don't really need that. But in his 2nd video he says his right well 'Fell Off' and the left wheel is 'Falling Off'. If his wheel fell off it would do a lot of damage to the rotor and most likely the right front corner of his Ryker would also have hit the ground. Not to mention likely damage to the hub threads and how in the world would you ever find the hub nut with a wheel coming off at 80 mph? So I'm a bit confused as to whether he only thinks his right wheel was falling off. Or if it actually fell off. I'm thinking not.

I agree with Poli. Even if all 3 pins fell out, it should not cause the wheel to fall off. The function of the pins is to mate the wheel to the rotor. Not to keep the wheel on the hub. Completely unrelated as far as I can see.

I have checked all 3 pins on each side of my Ryker. Each one is protruding exactly the same as the one this guy pictures in his video as (backing out). So I do not think he has the problem on the left side that he things he has.

I don't disagree that he may have a serious problem. But I think he may be completely mis-diagnosing what is wrong with his Ryker.

It is easy to go sideways when something goes wrong with your brand new vehicle, or with a product that you just installed. But it is much better to think first than to blow up first. We had a saying in the fire service. 'There is always time to panic later'. Saves a lot of apogees and egg on the face. We've all done it and I am not without fault in this regard myself. So not throwing stones here. Just saying.

I hope he gets this fixed and we all find out what really happened here.
 
After watching the first video, I agree with him -- dealer issue NOT BRP. He states the clip come off. As I said in my response, that allows the nut to come off. Just don't know how that clip come off. Also, looking at the wheel, all three pins are missing and the brake disc is chewed up. Again, don't know how they could have come out. Looks to me like the dealer didn't line up the pins to the disc properly and probably didn't torque his wheels correctly either. Properly torqued, that nut should never move, with the clip being a backup. I firmly believe the idea behind the whole system is solid. But it is a good idea to have the dealer torque them while you watch.
 
Isn't the guy saying he suspects not torqued properly? Finding out the source of the problem is crucial at this point.
 
poli said:
After watching the first video, I agree with him -- dealer issue NOT BRP. He states the clip come off. As I said in my response, that allows the nut to come off. Just don't know how that clip come off. Also, looking at the wheel, all three pins are missing and the brake disc is chewed up. Again, don't know how they could have come out. Looks to me like the dealer didn't line up the pins to the disc properly and probably didn't torque his wheels correctly either. Properly torqued, that nut should never move, with the clip being a backup. I firmly believe the idea behind the whole system is solid. But it is a good idea to have the dealer torque them while you watch.
Click to expand...

If the dealer did not line up the pins with the rotor. Wouldn't that push the pins back through the wheel when tightened?

I think you're probably right. This is likely going to end up being a dealer assembly issue. I think the design is sound.
 
Probably comes down to dealer not tightening the wheel nut properly. When braking the loose wheel would move back and forth on the pins causing them to come loose from the wheel.
 
This is most likely an assembly or service issue. IE the wheel attachment nut not properly torqued and backed off.

Just FYI, if you do not align the pins to the rotor, there is not sufficient threads on the hub for the nut and clip to go back on. At least not without doing other damage by forcing something to break.

His pins came out from the wheel wallowing on the hub after the nut came loose. He will need a new hub, rotor, wheel, spacer, nut and clip. His dealer is playing CYA so as not to be on the hook for this.
 
jcthorne said:
This is most likely an assembly or service issue. IE the wheel attachment nut not properly torqued and backed off.

Just FYI, if you do not align the pins to the rotor, there is not sufficient threads on the hub for the nut and clip to go back on. At least not without doing other damage by forcing something to break.

His pins came out from the wheel wallowing on the hub after the nut came loose. He will need a new hub, rotor, wheel, spacer, nut and clip. His dealer is playing CYA so as not to be on the hook for this.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I think as well. It will be interesting to see how close you are to reality. I think we have a bad assembly here. I also wonder how the dealer will spin this. But I'd say BRP is aware of the video and I don't think this will just go away for that dealership.
 
This gentleman need learn the correct terminology before posting. From http://www.rfsystemlab.us/glossary/stator/


stator

stey-ter

noun

Definition

Stators are the stationary part of an Alternator, while the Flywheel is the moving part that helps generate a charge. Almost like what you would see on a bicycle tire, Stators have multiple “spokes” that extend from the center. These “spokes” are usually constructed out of a number of thin iron plates stacked on top of one another. At the end of these “spokes”, is a form of a magnet wire (usually copper). As the Flywheel (the non-stationary part of an Alternator) moves around the Stator, the permanent magnetics on the Flywheel generate AC power which is conducted through the copper wire on the Stator, and often times the AC power is sent to a Rectifier which will convert the Alternating Current (AC) to Direct Current (DC) to power electrical systems that require Direct Current.

Also from https://www.aviationpros.com/engine...ompressor-sections-basic-theory-and-operation

What is a stator in a jet engine?
An axial flow compressor has two basic elements - a rotor and a stator. ... After the air is impelled by the rotor blades, it goes through the stator blades. The stator blades are fixed and act as diffusers at each stage. They partially convert high velocity air into high pressure.
 
Wheel problem with RYKERS

There appears to be a potential issues with the wheels on the Rykers. For those on youtube look up videos by T47 Productions. There are 3 videos by this person who had one front wheel fall off and the other is close to falling off. The dealer and BRP are involved and investigating.
It appears that for an undetermined reason the wheel alignment pins came loose.
Please check these on your machine.
I haven't seen this reported here so it doesn't appear to be widespread.
-- jim
 
BajaRon said:
Exactly what I think as well. It will be interesting to see how close you are to reality. I think we have a bad assembly here. I also wonder how the dealer will spin this. But I'd say BRP is aware of the video and I don't think this will just go away for that dealership.
Click to expand...
Question #1. Do the Ryker wheels come with pins pressed into the alignment holes? The reason I ask is it looks like on the parts diagram there is a pin in the wheel and I do not find a part # for the alignment pin. If the pins are part of the wheel assembly from the factory then I'm guessing there is a hole size vs. pin size issue. If the drilling of the holes in the wheel is not controlled tightly enough then the pins could either be loose in the wheel, or the interference fit is not sufficient to hold the pin. Or, maybe the holes in the rotor are just a bit too large and allows some rotational movement between the rotor and wheel. If that is the case then it's a BRP problem, not a dealer problem. In a way this could be the same type of problem that has been seen with the RT front drive pulley, i.e., just enough looseness between the pulley and shaft to allow rotational movement.

I could be wrong but I'm going to speculate the reason for the high torque requirement for the wheel hub is because BRP is counting on the resulting friction force between the wheel and rotor to compensate for slop in the pins and thus prevent rotational movement. Not a good idea, IMO. That approach hasn't prevented the red rust issue with the RT pulleys. Of course, if the wheel nuts were not torqued adequately then it is a dealer problem.

JC, just a minor FYI. In the list of parts you said will need to be replaced you list hub. From what I see on the parts diagram there is no hub. Instead, it's a short axle that is supported by ball bearings inside the steering knuckle.
 
I cannot beleive that the wheel has "fallen off" .. also if the wheels (both ?) where not fixed in the right way, I think the rider would feel that after some seconds ..
(seems for me more - who pays now for the repair of that story ?)
 
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