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Rotella T6 mileage ?

irvin48

New member
have tried 1 oil change with amsoil, am contemplating the next w/T6 seeing i use it all the other
motors except cars. the ? to you guys[and gals] that are running it-how many miles are you
going between oil changes? any input would be appreciated. thank you!!--irv toms:popcorn:
 
Not a Spyder, but I ran T-6 in my Victory MC with a 106" (1731cc) engine. I inadvertently ran it over 7K miles, and fearing I had over extended it, I sent a sample in for analysis. The report came back that everything was hunky-dory and BTW, there's another 2500 miles left on that oil before you have any concerns.
I hope this helps. I will be putting T-6 in my F3L when it's time for its first change and from then on. Good stuff!
 
have tried 1 oil change with amsoil, am contemplating the next w/T6 seeing i use it all the other
motors except cars. the ? to you guys[and gals] that are running it-how many miles are you
going between oil changes? any input would be appreciated. thank you!!--irv toms:popcorn:

Even tho t-6 is Full synthetic …. I plan to keep my 14 RT until I'm DEAD ….. so I hope to get at least 250,000 miles from it ….. I change at 4500 or so twice a year I only change the filter once ….. Mike ……………………. PS another member posted a LINK to this year's T-6 rebate do a search …. last year I got $34.00 dollars back and this year's is the same .:clap:...……...… Mike :ohyea:
 
To the OP, do you have your oil analyzed? That's the only real way to tell how it's performing. My last analysis of Amsoil Metric 10W-40 fully synthetic at 9,300 miles showed the cSt 100C at 13.8, hands down better than Mobil 1 4T Racing at 6,100 miles. The Amsoil has proven best at the least viscosity shear-down of the three oils I've used including the Mobil 1 and BRP XPS synthetic blend.
 
Ditto to Mike :agree: I change at 5K intervals though with the filter every other. Makes it easy to keep track of when it is time for a change and what needs to be changed. Oil on the 5, oil and filter on the 0. I.E. oil and filter at 10k, oil at 15k, oil and filter at 20K, oil at 25k....

CJ Jax
 
Works for us in the 1330 SE6

DSCN2818.jpg

I use the Rotella T6 5w40 in both the 16 F3T and my 15 RT. It is JASO MA-2 rated and appears to work well with the 1330 SE6 platform. I used BRP's synthetic in the older 11 RT SM-5 but have run the Rotella for about 40,000 miles in each of our bikes. I too generally refresh the oil at 5,000 miles, but have the one analysis at a longer 8,000 miles and still acceptable viscosity. Your bike and riding parameters, but works for us and I can use the Rotella in my Kubota diesel as well:yes:
 
I change every 5K. Used BRP synthetic blend until 20K or so and then switched to BRP full synthetic. I didn't experience much difference in observable performance such as heat or shifting. I just completed my 30K service and switched to Amsoil 10w40 metric to see if I noticed any observable differences. I have no experience with Rotella, but hear a lot of positive comments, particularly from people that have many cars, trucks, and toys and use Rotella in everything. Seems like good protection and value. I may try someday.

Rob
 
im an advocate for early change- mobil1 in motor vehicles changed between
3-4000 miles. the t6 in everthing else always done way early. but i see amsoil people
running 9000 miles, but the rotella people only half that mileage. dont trust it to go
farther? never have tested oil in 54 years of driving. maybe ill try it. pure economics
say changing t6 twice as many times im still ahead. or am i?:gaah:
 
im an advocate for early change- mobil1 in motor vehicles changed between
3-4000 miles. the t6 in everthing else always done way early. but i see amsoil people
running 9000 miles, but the rotella people only half that mileage. dont trust it to go
farther? never have tested oil in 54 miles of driving. maybe ill try it. pure economics
say changing t6 twice as many times im still ahead. or am i?:gaah:

Rotella is an oil designed for a heavy duty diesel engine. Do you think they change it at 5K miles? Not being a truck driver, I would only have to assume that they change it at extended intervals. Changing oil on short intervals is just an unneeded precaution.
 
Irvin48....see post #2. Keep in mind that was in an air cooled engine that is harder on oil by running it hotter at times. Therefore, T-6 is easily a 9K oil in liquid cooled engines..
 
To the OP, do you have your oil analyzed? That's the only real way to tell how it's performing. My last analysis of Amsoil Metric 10W-40 fully synthetic at 9,300 miles showed the cSt 100C at 13.8, hands down better than Mobil 1 4T Racing at 6,100 miles. The Amsoil has proven best at the least viscosity shear-down of the three oils I've used including the Mobil 1 and BRP XPS synthetic blend.

Sadly, an oil analysis does not represent lubricity. Yes, it measures viscosity and contaminents.

When choosing suspension fluids, like oil for an engine, factors do play into it. One is VI or viscosity index. The oils you mentioned have published VI numbers. What I have learned and experienced is that the suspension fluids that offer the best VI numbers do last a long time, however, they also provide the worst lubrication, which can be felt by the rider as stiction or notchy suspension movement.

Having done countless oil analysis samples on aircraft engines over the past decades, the best information tends to be contamination of the oil, and less about viscosity. Contaminated oil is obviously bad, and causes wear. Poor lubricity causes wear.

I ran BRP oil for break in distance. I replaced that oil well ahead of the scheduled interval. Immediately the gearbox shifted smoother but was still somewhat notchy or tight. After break in, when I went with my current oil, almost immediately, the gearbox freed up. My point is even with new oil that has not sheared, lubricity triumphs over VI.

I have never done oil analysis on the Spyder and have no plans to. I run a premium oil, changed each 5000 miles which is approximately every 12 months.
 
Rotella is an oil designed for a heavy duty diesel engine. Do you think they change it at 5K miles? Not being a truck driver, I would only have to assume that they change it at extended intervals. Changing oil on short intervals is just an unneeded precaution.


Engines, even diesels are pretty easy on oils. In the Spyder and many other motorcycles, the gearbox shreads the oil. Even with the viscosity reduced, the engine will be fine, the gearbox will see wear long before the engine.

My opinion, if the Spyder had isolated engine oil from the gearbox oil, the oil change interval for the engine would be at least 25,000 miles, and possibly 50,000 miles. The gearbox though, would be pushing it anything over 10,000 miles. Small diameter straight cut gears that are kind of narrow place a lot of pressure and sliding shear into the oil. Motorcycle gearboxes are hard on oil.
 
I use T6 in our 1330 motors and Change them at 9000 miles. Had the oil tested at 9000 miles and the report came back positive with a recamended change of 10,000 miles. BRP recommends 9300 miles between changes using their semi-syn. So I am confident that the full syn will go 9000. I do replace the filter each time.
Our 2014 RT was traded at 84,000 miles and never used oil, or had an oil related issue.
 
Irvin48....see post #2. Keep in mind that was in an air cooled engine that is harder on oil by running it hotter at times. Therefore, T-6 is easily a 9K oil in liquid cooled engines..

i tried t6 in my victoy cross roads too. noticed no difference ,went back to vic oil.
 
FYI>>>Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W/40 On sale at amazon>>40 bucks for a 6 pack delivered.This is a great price on a fine motorcycle oil.
 
didnt realize i had 1 oil change worth of brp oil here. used it friday. either amsoil again or rotella next change.
will only go about 7-7500 miles on it. thats what i did for my first change back in '16. thanks for all the input.
[ps--the oil just b4 this change was amsoil, but didnt realize a difference in the machine]
 
Sadly, an oil analysis does not represent lubricity. Yes, it measures viscosity and contaminents.

When choosing suspension fluids, like oil for an engine, factors do play into it. One is VI or viscosity index. The oils you mentioned have published VI numbers. What I have learned and experienced is that the suspension fluids that offer the best VI numbers do last a long time, however, they also provide the worst lubrication, which can be felt by the rider as stiction or notchy suspension movement.

Having done countless oil analysis samples on aircraft engines over the past decades, the best information tends to be contamination of the oil, and less about viscosity. Contaminated oil is obviously bad, and causes wear. Poor lubricity causes wear.

I ran BRP oil for break in distance. I replaced that oil well ahead of the scheduled interval. Immediately the gearbox shifted smoother but was still somewhat notchy or tight. After break in, when I went with my current oil, almost immediately, the gearbox freed up. My point is even with new oil that has not sheared, lubricity triumphs over VI.

I have never done oil analysis on the Spyder and have no plans to. I run a premium oil, changed each 5000 miles which is approximately every 12 months.

So what premium oil? Inquiring minds and all.
 
didnt realize i had 1 oil change worth of brp oil here. used it friday. either amsoil again or rotella next change.
will only go about 7-7500 miles on it. thats what i did for my first change back in '16. thanks for all the input.

I'm sending out a sample of Amsoil with 9,666 miles on it. We shall see how it holds up.
 
i used amsoil in my previous change. if i hadnt had the leftover brp oil i would probably
gone with amsoil again, just because i have 5 qts of it left too. cant wait to see your readings.
i did only a little over 7000 on the amsoil. decided to dump it b4 a years riding.
 
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