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HowTo: How to replace lock cylinder in RT-622 trailer?

U

UtahPete

Active member
I just bought a used trailer from a SL and they did provide me the printed instructions for replacing the lock cylinder but I can't find them.

Does anyone know where I can find them online?

Also, I'm not sure if the instructions explain how to remove the panels to gain access to the lock, but if not I'd like those also.

Thanks in advance.
 
It may look and sound difficult but if you take your time, you'll be fine. I've done it three times and the key is not to lose the little ball bearing. Once to take the lock mechanism out, work on it at your table. You'll be fine.
 
Copperman said:
It may look and sound difficult but if you take your time, you'll be fine. I've done it three times and the key is not to lose the little ball bearing. Once to take the lock mechanism out, work on it at your table. You'll be fine.
Click to expand...

Got any tips on removing the inner panels on the trailer so I can get at the lock assembly to change it out?
 
UtahPete said:
I just bought a used trailer from a SL and they did provide me the printed instructions for replacing the lock cylinder but I can't find them.

Does anyone know where I can find them online?

Also, I'm not sure if the instructions explain how to remove the panels to gain access to the lock, but if not I'd like those also.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

You should try the search feature here on Spyderlovers and if that does not help use Google.com.

Pretty certain this mimics advice you recommend to many others that ask question, so obviously you know it works.

On a serious note, itis not difficult to accomplish. About 30 minutes max including a break to rest.
 
UtahPete said:
Got any tips on removing the inner panels on the trailer so I can get at the lock assembly to change it out?
Click to expand...

The side carpet is secured with Velcro, roll it back to expose the ends of the plastic panels. The carpet on the floor just rolls back. The panels are just held on with torx screws and one overlaps the other one. Pay attention to where the holes are. Remember, the two screws on the lip (on either side of the lock) need to be removed, too. It really is pretty easy once you get into it.
 
PMK said:
You should try the search feature here on Spyderlovers and if that does not help use Google.com.

Pretty certain this mimics advice you recommend to many others that ask question, so obviously you know it works.

On a serious note, itis not difficult to accomplish. About 30 minutes max including a break to rest.
Click to expand...

If you look at my original post you will see I was asking for a source for the printed instructions because none of my searches had been successful.
 
UtahPete said:
If you look at my original post you will see I was asking for a source for the printed instructions because none of my searches had been successful.
Click to expand...

If you consider my reply is merely a reflection of how you respond to others, you desreve very little from many here in regards to obtaining a quality response or anything more than go search yourself.

Having done this task myself in the past, what others kindly offered to you was in excess of what you need to know for this to be accomplished.
 
PMK said:
If you consider my reply is merely a reflection of how you respond to others, you desreve very little from many here in regards to obtaining a quality response or anything more than go search yourself.

Having done this task myself in the past, what others kindly offered to you was in excess of what you need to know for this to be accomplished.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
I tore into this project and got the latch assembly removed and disassembled. But, lacking the key that goes with the existing lock, I am unable to remove the cylinder and replace it with the one that came with my bike. So, I paid a locksmith $20 to pick the lock, remove the cylinder and replace it with my keyed cylinder. Now, it works and I've reinstalled it and it locks and unlocks, latches and unlatches the front and back hatches just fine.

I'll post some pics and instructions a little later, including removing the interior body panel to access the latch assembly.

It takes a T-30 Torx screwdriver, a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the one plastic 'rivet' and a medium Philips. That's it for tools.
 
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