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Is there an easy way to change the key barrel on a 622 trailer?
Just realized I need to rekey my 622 trailer to the new ryde. Been looking but have not found the magic thread?
Finally got a chance to spend a whole afternoon on the AWESOME new RT L!
Replaced my Lamonster Certified RT Limited #1874 With a 2018 RTL.
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KEY
My new 2014 RT came with a barrel to put on trailer.I don't have a trailer but he said to stick new key in all the way and it would work?
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Active Member
TRAILER KEY
When I purchased my 2013 RT Ltd & 622 trailer, I watched the mechanic install the key tumbler in the trailer. I am glad he did it, because it is an involved process. Keying the new tumbler is simple as inserting the key to set the tumblers, but changing out the tumbler, I would take it to a BRP dealer and pay the extra $$$ to save the frustration.
50 YEARS & STILL GOING STRONG....
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Jester
Just realized I need to rekey my 622 trailer to the new ryde. Been looking but have not found the magic thread?
Finally got a chance to spend a whole afternoon on the AWESOME new RT L!
Don't the 2014's come with a 622 trailer lock key barrel in the glove box to fit your key like the 2013's did? Or is that what you need to know, how toswap out the key barrel?
This thread help any? http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...RT-622-Trailer
Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 04-05-2014 at 05:41 PM.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Jester
Just realized I need to rekey my 622 trailer to the new ryde. Been looking but have not found the magic thread?
Finally got a chance to spend a whole afternoon on the AWESOME new RT L!
This is a complex procedure taking up three pages of the shop manual. I'd suggest purchasing a shop manual online, or taking the trailer to your dealer. to swap the barrels.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Have the new barrel but getting the old one out isn't as easy installing the first one. Nearest dealer is over a hundred miles away. Will probably disassemble the interior trim as see what I can do. Still have one of the old keys so I am not sol. Still waiting on the new wiring harness to arrive anyway.
Replaced my Lamonster Certified RT Limited #1874 With a 2018 RTL.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Jester
Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Have the new barrel but getting the old one out isn't as easy installing the first one. Nearest dealer is over a hundred miles away. Will probably disassemble the interior trim as see what I can do. Still have one of the old keys so I am not sol. Still waiting on the new wiring harness to arrive anyway.
1. Remove inner panels
2. Remove the component support plate
3. Disconnect both latch cables. They can be pulled up to ease removal
4. Remove 4 retaining screws from the latch mechanism assembly
5. Pull main control handle assembly out of its location toward the inside of the trailer
6. Use a small screwdriver to pry out handle pivot from pivot points
7. Remove pivot from mechanism
8. Remove 2 top retaining screws from the latch plate to remove the center blank cover
9. Remove the center blank cover
10. Hold latch plate in place while removing the 2 lower retaining screws as the plate is spring loaded
11. Remove the spring and ball
12. Remove the key barrel actuator cover
13. Insert key in key barrel
14. Turn key 1/2 turn until the retaining tab is aligned with the notch
Note: in case key is lost or lock mechanism is frozen, change the complete main control handle assembly
15. Insert a small screwdriver in the notch and gently lift the key barrel retaining tab to allow removal of the barrel
If you don't want to go to the dealer, I would still recommend purchasing a trailer shop manual online (or RT manual if it also has the trailer manual).
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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IMG_8558.jpg If all else fails call Lamont and have him drill out the lock!
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
Our RT-622 (used) did not come with a key so I had to get a new barrel and key set from Can Am, mainly because I wanted the proper lock and key for it.
Removing all of the panels to get to the lock wasn't too bad. No shop manual here. I just started unscrewing and if anything looked bound up somewhere I just paid attention to any fasteners that looked like they may be causing it. Once I had all that apart, the cables were easy to undo.
The tricky part is under the silver plate that you need to remove. There is a ball bearing and a small spring that will pop out and land in the bottom of the trailer if you aren't paying attention... yep, that's how I know. I did find them and with a little help from some grease, the will hold in place while you re-assemble the plate.
The tricky part is removing the lock itself. It pushes to the outside of the trailer. In the picture you will see the small tab that you need to push down to start it moving forward.
If you have the old key, it should slide right out. If not, well, if you are extremely lucky you can use your Spyder key to get most of the pins to pull in and if you sort of move your key in and out you may be able to work it sort of like a bump key to get the lock to slide out... I ended up using 2 different Spyder keys (since we have 2) as each would get certain pins all the way in or mostly in and working with both of them I was able to get the old lock to slip out.
I probably got extremely lucky, but it did work. A locksmith could probably get all of the pins to pull in for you too with their proper tools, but I am cheap and wanted to do it myself. That and the tech at the dealership didn't really know how to get it out without the matched key.
In the pics you can see the fully locked mechanism has 3 main pins and the retaining pin on the back. The second shows the pins pulled partially pulled in by an incorrect key. The correct key would pull the pins all the way in to allow the lock to slide out.
Lock.jpgLock with key.jpg
Last edited by jwulf74; 04-15-2014 at 10:53 PM.
2017 Can Am Commander Limited
2012 Cadillac CTS-V Black Diamond
2020 F3 Limited Magma Red (miss the 2011 Viper red)
2010 RT622 - Black
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
If you don't want to go to the dealer, I would still recommend purchasing a trailer shop manual online (or RT manual if it also has the trailer manual).
The 2010 service manual has it (thanks Scotty!)
Originally Posted by jwulf74
Our RT-622 (used) did not come with a key so I had to get a new barrel and key set from Can Am, mainly because I wanted the proper lock and key for it.
Removing all of the panels to get to the lock wasn't too bad. No shop manual here. I just started unscrewing and if anything looked bound up somewhere I just paid attention to any fasteners that looked like they may be causing it. Once I had all that apart, the cables were easy to undo.
The tricky part is under the silver plate that you need to remove. There is a ball bearing and a small spring that will pop out and land in the bottom of the trailer if you aren't paying attention... yep, that's how I know. I did find them and with a little help from some grease, the will hold in place while you re-assemble the plate.
The tricky part is removing the lock itself. It pushes to the outside of the trailer. In the picture you will see the small tab that you need to push down to start it moving forward.
If you have the old key, it should slide right out. If not, well, if you are extremely lucky you can use your Spyder key to get most of the pins to pull in and if you sort of move your key in and out you may be able to work it sort of like a bump key to get the lock to slide out... I ended up using 2 different Spyder keys (since we have 2) as each would get certain pins all the way in or mostly in and working with both of them I was able to get the old lock to slip out.
I probably got extremely lucky, but it did work. A locksmith could probably get all of the pins to pull in for you too with their proper tools, but I am cheap and wanted to do it myself. That and the tech at the dealership didn't really know how to get it out without the matched key.
In the pics you can see the fully locked mechanism has 2 main pins and the retaining pin on the back. The second shows the pins pulled partially pulled in by an incorrect key. The correct key would pull the pins all the way in to allow the lock to slide out.
Lock.jpgLock with key.jpg
I just did mine in 45 minutes. What you said about removing the tumbler was true, it is tricky, but if you are patient and understand what you need to do, it can be done. Saved me a trip to the dealer or the locksmith!
May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
2015 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM-6 Can-am Red/Black SM-6 with 2010 Black RT-622 trailer (hitch in the works).
Previously owned:
2010 Can-Am Spyder RT SM-5
2011 Can-Am Spyder RS-S SM-5
2013 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM-5
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Registered Users
Ok, here's where I'm at, the lock mechanism out of the trailer but the barrel still in assembly, see photos, what's next ????
Thank-you!!
IMG_0338.jpg IMG_0339.jpg
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Very Active Member
There is a release that needs to be pushed to allow the lock to push out, it was not difficult with the lock in the stage you have it.
Originally Posted by RUOUTHERE
Ok, here's where I'm at, the lock mechanism out of the trailer but the barrel still in assembly, see photos, what's next ????
Thank-you!!
IMG_0338.jpg IMG_0339.jpg
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by bluestratos
There is a release that needs to be pushed to allow the lock to push out, it was not difficult with the lock in the stage you have it.
Where is the release??
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Very Active Member
If I was there it would be easy, but I took the cover plate off, put the key in the lock and was able to see the release when I turned the lock. I believe I depress it and the lock cylinder pulled out. If you disconnect the cables and bring it to a dealer they would likely release it for no charge as it is a 1 second process.
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Originally Posted by bluestratos
If I was there it would be easy, but I took the cover plate off, put the key in the lock and was able to see the release when I turned the lock. I believe I depress it and the lock cylinder pulled out. If you disconnect the cables and bring it to a dealer they would likely release it for no charge as it is a 1 second process.
i know this is old thread but I wo like to know if you have to remove the tumbler from trailer to switch key for a different bike?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
i know this is old thread but I wo like to know if you have to remove the tumbler from trailer to switch key for a different bike?
Yes, your new bike should have come with a tumbler in the trunk with your manual etc.
You will need to take the old tumbler out and put the new one in.
It's best if you have the OLD KEY to the trailer otherwise the trailer lock as to be "picked" to get it out. Not fun but doable.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Very Active Member
Any local locksmith can do it.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
Any local locksmith can do it.
Cruzr Joe
I R one
Apprenteced with a locksmith in my younger days. That lock is super easy to pick FYI as all the others on ther spyder. Good thing the ignition is chipped because of that.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by finless
I R one
Apprenteced with a locksmith in my younger days. That lock is super easy to pick FYI as all the others on ther spyder. Good thing the ignition is chipped because of that.
Bob
You are as handy as a swiss army knife. (and you probably have one, don't you?)
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
You are as handy as a swiss army knife. (and you probably have one, don't you?)
Cruzr Joe
LOL..... no actually I do not. But I do have a leatherman.... Does that count?
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by finless
LOL..... no actually I do not. But I do have a leatherman.... Does that count?
Bob
Yep, that counts.
Cruzr joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Originally Posted by finless
Yes, your new bike should have come with a tumbler in the trunk with your manual etc.
You will need to take the old tumbler out and put the new one in.
It's best if you have the OLD KEY to the trailer otherwise the trailer lock as to be "picked" to get it out. Not fun but doable.
Bob
Thank Finless, I read somewhere that the tumbler is not keyed until the key is inserted in. possibly getting a New RT-S on Saturday if the #'s work.
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Member
Need a key barrel
I have the tumbler but need the barrel it fits into, we just purchases a very nice used trailer but the barrel the tumbler fits into is a smaller size than the one needed.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
John...
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