Oil Plug head broke off on 1330 F3.

[Sarge707]

Using a torque wrench when I know I should have just Tightened By FEEL like I usually do and the head of the right side Magnet bolt 6mm broke off- Filled with the 4 then 4 1/2 then 5 quarts during timed oil check and No Leak while warm but when cool it is a very slow leak into container. I know the 1 quart in there will slowly leak but wanted the New oil circulated.
Whats the preferred (Easiest ) way to back out the threaded part- It did NOT strip - It just snapped off? Luckily my Ryker should be here in a month .
Dealer said- Punch it - drill hole- then reverse drill to extract. Last time I used a torque wrench was on my 09GS and same thing happened- Since then hand tightening by Feel worker perfect- I don't believe I fell for the same mistake again. NO threads on the head.

Any advice for easiest way to extract because it did not strip.

 

[UtahPete]

The head of the right side Magnet bolt 6mm broke off- Whats the preferred (Easiest ) way to back out the threaded part- It did NOT strip - It just snapped off? Dealer said- Punch it - drill hole- then reverse drill to extract. NO threads on the head. Any advice for easiest way to extract because it did not strip.

Since there is nothing to grab hold of, you'll have to drill it and use a bolt extractor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw

 

[JayBros]

Can you see or, better, take a picture of the broken plug in its hole? Don't know if you can drill into the magnet to use a small Easy Out or if there is material you can tap a small cold chisel into twist it out. It should come out fairly easily except for any drag the sheared plug thread may have on the hole threads.

 

[trikermutha]

Use a extractor and take your time. There are several different version of a extractor out there.

 

[PMK]

That is a bummer.

Before going to power tools, carefully try a fresh screwdriver in an attempt to simply unscrew the remnants. Work carefully and cautiously so as not to nick a thread and impede progress.

As for the methods involving an easy out or simply drilling, you better be absolutely certain to use a left hand drill bit. If you use a conventional right hand twist drill, you risk the possibility of the drill catching the broken drain plug and winding it into the gearbox. Once inside it will likely stick to something steel and require a teardown in some fashion.

If possible, make a drill bushing / guide, to ensure you do not drill into the exposed threads or sideways, damaging the case.

One of the locals here had the same thing happen, he explained how with time and patience, he was able to unwind the broken drain plug with a screwdriver and maybe a scribe when needed.

 

[Sarge707]

Thanks ,I'm going to go VERY slow- First is pump the tires up for winter storage and get the wheels all on a couple 2x8s so I can see what I'm doing then jack the right side up a few more inches to work from my back. Might be able to get a little notch in the plug with the dremel to use a screwdriver? Next 10 days to cold to lay on a garage floor. I only had the big torque wrench to use my 36mm socket to Just loosen the oil filter and I should have put it back after that- I'm still kicking myself but when I think of peoples houses burning in California I remind myself to count my blessings?

 

[PMK]

Thanks ,I'm going to go VERY slow- First is pump the tires up for winter storage and get the wheels all on a couple 2x8s so I can see what I'm doing then jack the right side up a few more inches to work from my back. Might be able to get a little notch in the plug with the dremel to use a screwdriver? Next 10 days to cold to lay on a garage floor. I only had the big torque wrench to use my 36mm socket to Just loosen the oil filter and I should have put it back after that- I'm still kicking myself but when I think of peoples houses burning in California I remind myself to count my blessings?

Do not overthink it. Leave the Dremel in the toolbox until it is certainly needed. If the screwdriver blade has a good sharp edge from being near new, it might grab a burr and simply screw out. If it were me, cold or not, lay cardboard and a blanket on the floor and without even jacking it up, give it a shot. Go steal you wifes makeup mirror to let you see, but do not screw it in, only out, especially using the mirror.

 

[AeroPilot]

Slow and steady wins the race... This video has some things to think about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

A good light/mirror and having the front wheels up on car ramps might give you enough room to see and work more comfortably.

 

[donhy]

I had a similar issue on my 991 the torque specs seems a bit off on the service manual, i have a high end torque wrench that is calibrated properly. So now i just go by the feel. Take your time an extractor should do the job

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I would not run your Spyder with that plug piece in there ………. the piece will VARNISH from heat cycles and make it 3X's as difficult to remove. You could probably get a punch in there and Tap that a few times with a Hammer to break the Varnish seal, but the Varnish will make it harder to remove the plug piece...……..good luck, Mike :thumbup:

 

[jlc41]

Good advice, don't over think it. Try to unscrew it if possible if not left hand drill, you may get lucky and it unscrews as you drill, if not use an easy out should not be a problem. Good luck nice and easy gets it.
Joe

 

[Sarge707]

Slow and steady wins the race... This video has some things to think about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

A good light/mirror and having the front wheels up on car ramps might give you enough room to see and work more comfortably.

Thanks for this excellent video! If I can't coax it out the Non-Powered way I would buy and use his Hinge Guide Sighting way with a reverse drill because I would be sure its not going to ruin the case threads. If it does not free I won't drill the hole to far in and then use the appropriate size extractor. I never heard of this drill guide/centering thing before and it seems to be a Great method for this if Non powered ways fail. Video covers ALL types of situations!!!

 

[ARtraveler]

All good advice. And very, very, scary for me. You folks are great. :bowdown::bowdown:

 

[dondje]

If the screwdriver doesn't work. Clean plug and hex "L" wrench well with brake cleaner. Glue hex to plug with high strength/tech glue. Putty form of glue will not drip. Be extra careful not to get glue on case.

Good luck!

BTW: I was thinking about putting magnetic plug in. However, there are MANY post on this site about them breaking. Usually when trying to remove though.

Regards,

Don

 

[Sarge707]

Do not overthink it. Leave the Dremel in the toolbox until it is certainly needed. If the screwdriver blade has a good sharp edge from being near new, it might grab a burr and simply screw out. If it were me, cold or not, lay cardboard and a blanket on the floor and without even jacking it up, give it a shot. Go steal you wifes makeup mirror to let you see, but do not screw it in, only out, especially using the mirror.

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

 

[PMK]

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

I highly doubt drain plugs are the sacraficial component.

Regardless glad to read it easily was removed.

 

[KX5062]

I highly doubt drain plugs are the sacraficial component.

Regardless glad to read it easily was removed.

I agree. The steel used in the drain plugs is overly mild whatever flavor they use. If I had to guess, I'd say it was typical cheap Chinese junk BRP is purchasing from a vendor.

 

[BajaRon]

You were right, with snow a few hours away I went out and tapped it with a screwdriver a few times and then tried to turn with a screwdriver on a rough edge and viola it came out very easy and the threads and mounting surface are like new!!! Looked up the part # to order and No 1330 listed has the Part # available? I called my dealer and he had One in stock so I can now fix it tomorrow and I will measure the oil that leaked in the container below it and add and then do another oil level check test. I will hand tighten and then do the extra 1/4 turn this time.
Could it be they make this part sacrificial ( Like the sprocket VS Output shaft) because if were very hard metal the threads would probably be affected if over torqued? Just a thought?
I was lucky and want to Thank everyone for the constructive comments and videos because I sure learned some good methods if it were worse!!!
I have learned you can Always count on Spyder lovers to help with a problem!!!

I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Just design for disaster. They do not need to be all that tight. Just hand snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet is plenty. They will get tighter as they go through heat cycles. That is why your drain plug is always tighter when you take it off than when you installed it. It won't fall out and it won't leak. Which is, I know, what people are concerned about.

If the OEM drain plug is that weak I'd consider one of the aftermarket products. Though it could be just a quality control issue and you got a bad one. I've not heard of anyone else twisting a head off like this. But maybe I just missed that memo!

Certainly great news that the fix was so easy. I am very glad that it worked out as well as it did. Usually you will strip threads long before the head twists off.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Just design for disaster. They do not need to be all that tight. Just hand snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet is plenty. They will get tighter as they go through heat cycles. That is why your drain plug is always tighter when you take it off than when you installed it. It won't fall out and it won't leak. Which is, I know, what people are concerned about.

If the OEM drain plug is that weak I'd consider one of the aftermarket products. Though it could be just a quality control issue and you got a bad one. I've not heard of anyone else twisting a head off like this. But maybe I just missed that memo!

Certainly great news that the fix was so easy. I am very glad that it worked out as well as it did. Usually you will strip threads long before the head twists off.

Ron by " tighter " are you referring to the " varnish " that forms on the threads from the oil ????? …… if so I always give the socket I'm using ( to remove ) a solid rap with a hammer first ….. it usually makes removal easier ….. Mike :thumbup:

 

[strykerAKAmack]

If you have access to mig welder tack a 3/8 nut right on and then back it right out .
Way easier than the drill and try to back out method .