Brake failure so thinking of these brakes

[PMK]

No, the system requires BUDS to do a proper flush and that is required every 2 years.

You only have to clear the code because the service was not done and now the contaminated fluid has set a fault code.

I was just explaining you need BUDS to do the flush, resetting the code while in there does not take any more time. You either buy the tools to work on the bike or pay someone that has bought the tools. Bike maintenance is not free. Other bikes and some cars with ABS systems have similar requirements for flushing.

This will not be a popular post. If you do not know about or understand your brakes more than adding fluid or a simple brake pad change pay a qualified person to accomplish the task.

These are the brakes and in most cases are an important safety item. It may hurt your pocket to pay the couple hundred to flush the brakes and bleed them, but suffice to say it less costly than an ER visit after a wreck or being dead.

 

[Eckhard]

This will not be a popular post.

These things should be designed so that a mechanically skilled person be able to maintain it without visiting the dealer. I've had bikes for the last 50 years and was able to do all the necessary work to keep them going. It just offends me that I need to spend 750$ Canadian for a software to properly bleed the brakes and read/reset the codes the computer generates. What happened to the right to repair?

If the guy who started this thread wants to dig as deep as possible to find a solution that doesn't require a dealer he should not be criticized for trying improve his level of knowledge and those of other readers. Have a great day guys and girls.

 

[PMK]

These things should be designed so that a mechanically skilled person be able to maintain it without visiting the dealer. I've had bikes for the last 50 years and was able to do all the necessary work to keep them going. It just offends me that I need to spend 750$ Canadian for a software to properly bleed the brakes and read/reset the codes the computer generates. What happened to the right to repair?

If the guy who started this thread wants to dig as deep as possible to find a solution that doesn't require a dealer he should not be criticized for trying improve his level of knowledge and those of other readers. Have a great day guys and girls.

Like cars, a lot has changed in 50 years. What we easily worked on with cars from the 60s or prior has now been blessed with increased performance that required electronics to make it happen and electronics to diagnose the faults when they occurr.

As for the person that started this topic digging as deep as possible, if they were to read the maintenance manual, it would be obvious that BUDS is only required per the book for the final step in the brake fluid flush and bleed process. Additionally, the brake system flush and bleed task is a scheduled item per BRP to be accomplished each 24 months.

Very often, on other groups brake faults are posted. Typically low fluid or riding the pedal is the cause. Even so, very few owners adhere to brake maintenance tasks per the scheduled maintenance, and once the system is flushed and bled, unless parts have failed, the issue is resolved.

So extending your quoted words, maybe this owner needs to accomplish the flush and bleed per the manual prior to spending the money. As you say this will improve their level of knowledge, and ironically, let them feel and understand the effort required when done by the shop. Yes the task is simple. Jack and remove front wheels then safely support the vehicle. Remove fluid from reservoir and properly discard. Fill reservoir with correct brake fluid. By whatever means seems appropriate. Flush the brake system via the 4, yes 4 brake bleeders. Bleed the brakes by whatever method seems appropriate via the 4 bleeders. If available, accomplish the BUDS portion to remove tne last bit of old fluid. Ensure the bleed is providing a firm pedal. Reset the system by building and holding brake pressure before energizing the key. Properly discard all old fluid, reinstall front wheels and lower vehicle.

 

[trikermutha]

So if you took in the bike to a dealer how much would they charge just to reset?

Since it may not take more than 1/2 tops if that at all.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Bleeding Brakes and - BUDS

Here is something that's not being said ….. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set ….. WHERE IS THAT 1% ….. I think it's in the VCM ………… sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS ….I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel …… and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ………..jmho ….. Mike :thumbup:

 

[PMK]

Here is something that's not being said ….. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set ….. WHERE IS THAT 1% ….. I think it's in the VCM ………… sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS ….I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel …… and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ………..jmho ….. Mike :thumbup:

Yes, I accomplished flush and bleed on our 2014 RTS a couple years ago and it needs to be done again. Followed the manual, but avoided the last BUDS step and still have far better performing brakes than when new.

 

[Eckhard]

Here is something that's not being said ….. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set ….. WHERE IS THAT 1% ….. I think it's in the VCM ………… sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS ….I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel …… and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ………..jmho ….. Mike :thumbup:

What job on the brakes did you do?? System flush? Pad changes? Please specify.

Thanks.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRAKES & BUDS

What job on the brakes did you do?? System flush? Pad changes? Please specify.

Thanks.

After checking pad wear ( the thickness was good ), I slowly drained the old fluid and simultaneously added New DOT 4 fluid.….. because I did it this way I probably used more fluid than absolutely necessary, since I relied on a color change I drained more than it needed, just to be sure it was clean and new. If you first do a complete drain you will absolutely have to do a BUDS. The extra amount doing it this was no more than a few oz.. Un-like a lot of other reports, my fluid ( 4 yrs old and 40,000+ miles ) was not too dis-colored..... But new fluid is crystal clear, I used two glass containers during the draining process.....When it began to look clearer I switched to a clean container, which would show the draining results better. A slightly more complicated process but it gave me peace of mind …… good luck …. Mike :thumbup:

 

[Stridersr7]

I never changed the brakes because at 10k miles they look great. I was just saying things I would try that’s all. And the Motul dot 4 brake fluid in it looks great and full.

 

[Eckhard]

BLUEKNIGHT911

Did you use a Mighty Vac or other device to assist in the draining,

or

was it open the valve and let it run out

or

was it pump up the pressure on the pedal, hold, and open the bleeder?

Thanks

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Brake change procedeure

BLUEKNIGHT911

Did you use a Mighty Vac or other device to assist in the draining,

or

was it open the valve and let it run out

or

was it a pump up the pressure on the pedal, hold, and open the bleeder?

Thanks

I it the way I learned years and years ago from a mechanic..... NO VAC, or other device …..just gravity :dontknow: and the pump & hold - close valve - release - repeatedly under it runs clear….. You do NEED another person or it will take 4 times as long..... for the Spyder I started with the left front, then right front , then rear …… good luck.... I'm positive there are numerous vids on U-tube on how this method is done ……..Mike :thumbup:

 

[Stridersr7]

Well I did the back brake by the open and close method. But as soon as I opened it it came out like a gush. So that was good. But haven’t done the front. Then I looked at the current brakes and as you see they look good. Only reason I haven’t done the front is because I need to take the wheels off. Which seems easy yes. BUT I have hub LED light in the wheel. And they are just stuck on there. So need to see what tool I can use to twist those off without breaking them

 

[Bfromla]

How much did that cost you?

ZERO$$$ was warranty Sorry for late answer

 

[Michael211_2000]

So I'm guessing this was never resolved?

I've been busy since 2016, 4 floods into my home (which isn't in a Flood Hazard, according to FEMA). Long story, but riding my 2012 RS just hasn't been a priority. Gave up on the house just "camping" in it now can't fix it fast enough to beat the next flood.... anyways, trying to get my Spyder inspected and new tags but dealing with Brake Failure message and like OP it's not the brake fluid level nor the brake pads and is occurring just shortly after starting the engine without me ever pressing the brake pedal or even sitting on the bike yet. How can it know how much pressure is in the system when the brake pedal hasn't even been pressed yet?

And my brakes, well they seem to work as well as ever the pedal is firm I cannot press it down to the 2nd click even when standing on it and the ABS works great on my dirt driveway (it's not dirt dirt, there's grass over it just hard packed ground under). I've removed my sensors beneath the brake fluid reservoir and it made no difference so I think i can say the fluid level isn't the problem Fluid has been DOT 4 from the start I believe that's what factory put in the 2012 models it's what the manual calls for. So... I'm stumped, can't get it inspected so cannot buy the ridiculously expensive license tags for it so it's a giant paperweight sitting under my car port.... lol!

Seriously to take it to a dealership I'd have to ride or or rent a trailer so I could then leave it there then get somebody to take me back or rent a trailer again just to go back and get it... it's the hassle as much as the cost to deal with a dealership I tell you. :-\

My pickup truck with almost 300K miles on it has never had a brake fluid change and never had a brake warning or code thrown.... why these Spyder's are so touchy about their brakes I will never know! And for like under $25 I have an ODB-II wireless dongle for my truck that lets me read the codes and all sensors and clear any fault codes logged... CanAm could stand to learn a thing or two from GM! Just saying!

- Michael