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BAJA RON SHOCK ADJUSTER ?'s

irvin48

New member
someone had posted a tutorial on installing the adjusters with pics just lately.
be darned if i can find it or maybe i dreamed it. either way does anyone have a link to it?
thank you for any help. :bowdown:
 
Actual Video Link

https://youtu.be/d2sOACUyYjo

Here is the actual video link. It is pretty well done. This install takes some time but most people don't have too much trouble with it.

The bottom line is, I get a lot of very positive feedback from this mod. I still highly recommend doing the sway bar first. But with that done, these Shock Adjusters are really the frosting on the cake. Greatly reduces or eliminates bottoming out. Gives you even more control in curves, crosswinds and when passing large trucks on the Interstate. Being able to adjust your spring pre-load is a great feature.
 
I'll be ordering these soon, just wondering if removing the Frunk makes this easier on a '13.
 
From my July 2015 post - hope it's helpful: Just installed - front shock adjusters
The install was very easy and Ron's directions were "great" as normal. I also got a few hints from SpyderCruiser - very helpful - thanks! :bowdown:

I have not rode the bike with them installed other than to set them in and have an initial setting. Now the fun begins to tune them in.... :D:D:D

I think they are very well made and install was pretty easy. Biggest issue is the top shock bolts...tough area to reassemble. I did the right side really quickly, but the left side was an issue for me. So......I used Ron's directions about the nut to the backside and it worked well...saved me a lot of work!

I have a pic of the tools used - 15mm....I took SpyderCruiser's advice on the breaker bar with socket - worked great! I used a ratchet box end wrench as well. If you have the tools, makes the job go so much easier!! :thumbup:

BTW - Ron's coil spring compressors are well worth it - easy to use - worked well! :thumbup: HINT: I used vice grips to help stabilize the spring compressor when tightening - no problem - worked great and is a good way to keep your hands away from the coil!!

We have 20,000+ miles on our 2014 RT Limited - awesome bike - now onto the next 20,000!

Here's a few pics:​

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Another link to check out: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...juster-install&highlight=baja+shock+adjusters
Last edited by Jim&Teresa; 07-29-2015 at 01:18 PM.
 
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I'll be ordering these soon, just wondering if removing the Frunk makes this easier on a '13.

Removing the Frunk does make the install easier. You have to weight the added effort and time of the Frunk removal/install against the benefits. If you want to avoid the top shock bolt issue this is a good way to go. The rest of the install is mostly just time and effort. Not high on the difficulty rating.

Be sure to use a little lubricant on the spring compressor tool threads (WD-40 or similar, chain lube, whatever you have laying around) works well. Just apply it to the threads needed to do the job. This keeps the mess down.

These shock adjusters have been a real sleeper. I have been too busy to market them much and they don't get the recognition that the sway bar does. But, so far, everyone that has installed them is very happy. I just want to reiterate that these are not a substitute for the sway bar upgrade.
 
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Removing the Frunk does make the install easier. You have to weight the added effort and time of the Frunk removal/install against the benefits. If you want to avoid the top shock bolt issue this is a good way to go. The rest of the install is mostly just time and effort. Not high on the difficulty rating.

Be sure to use a little lubricant on the spring compressor tool (WD-40 or similar, chain lube, whatever you have laying around) works well. Just apply it to the threads needed to do the job. This keeps the mess down.

These shock adjusters have been a real sleeper. I have been too busy to market them much and they don't get the recognition that the sway bar does. But, so far, everyone that has installed them is very happy. I just want to reiterate that these are not a substitute for the sway bar upgrade.[/QUOTE

Ok Ron, what about us poor souls with older bikes? What can we do to increase spring tension on the front shocks?
 
adjusters arrived sat. nuthin going on at the shop. so i jacked it up 2 different
times. looked in at that upper bolt , -and let it down. about 11 i said p--s on it, and
jacked up the left side. after an hour for dinner, phone calls and people stopping,
i had it back together by 2:30. thanks everyone for the valuable help :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::yes:.
i did do one side at a time. more stable and more room for me. on the second spring
i used anti seize on the compressor threads. seemed to move a lot easier than viscotene
or wd40. got it up 1 turn. did give it a 10 mile bed- in first.
ron- the tip on 2 sided tape was a curse word saver. worked like a charm!! being a semi retired
body shop i had 4 sizes laying around.

now all i have left to get up the guts to do is frunk removal and belt adjustment !:banghead::yikes:
again, thanks everyone!--irvin toms
 
Irvin, thanks for starting this thread, it got me the "round tuit" I needed and my box arrived from Ron today. I'll be getting with Jim and using his compressors to get this done soon.
Taking the frunk off is easier than I thought it would be, I've done it a few times on my '13. Makes fiddling with the fog lights so easy!
 
BAJA RONS SHOCK ADJUSTERS

I had the sway bar and then put these on not to difficult to do but they do make a difference very glad I spent the money and did it. I'm 70 and it still wasn't that hard a project.
 
Ok Ron, what about us poor souls with older bikes? What can we do to increase spring tension on the front shocks?

All of the 2008-2012 Spyders came from the factory with shock spring adjusters. If yours is one of these model years. You already have them. They are cam and not threaded adjusters. A bit more difficult to adjust but not all that bad. Be sure to lift the front of your Spyder before making the adjustment to take some of the stress off of the cam. Hopefully, they aren't already maxed out.

You should have a spanner wrench in your BRP tool pack for this. Be sure to get both cams at the same notch.
 
didnt think till i read your post this morn. probably easier to turn the adjusters jacked up.
i did re-antiseize[ is that a word?] the adjusters threads before putting them on. just guessing
that might be on the threads?

dave-if youneed the small compressors before i send them back, let me know--irv
 
I found that lifting the front end enough to get better access to the upper bolts and using a 15mm offset box wrench along with long and short 15mm socket with ratcheting wrench made it possible to get the nuts off. Then lift enough to release the tension on the shocks so the bolts can be removed. Then lift a little more to remove the shocks. A friend helped me compress the coil springs with BajaRon's tool, so we could install the Adjusters.

When I put the shocks back in I put the bolts in from the back (reversed) as it was easier. I have also bought a set of SK ratcheting offset box end wrenches so it will be much easier next time.

This is on a 2018 RT L.

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Question

I am going to install these on my 15RTS. my question is do you gain any ground clearnce after install. One of the issues i see with all the Can ams is the ground clearnce.
 
I am going to install these on my 15RTS. my question is do you gain any ground clearnce after install. One of the issues i see with all the Can ams is the ground clearnce.


You can gain ground clearance. But the idea is to maintain original ground clearance when loaded.

With the shock adjusters you have 2 things going for you for ground clearance.

1st, you don't lose any ground clearance when loaded because you can compensate. I advise customers to take a measurement at the nose of their Spyder unloaded before they do the Shock Adjuster install. This will vary some because your Spyder suspension will settle a bit differently every time you stop. But usually not by more then 1/4" ~ 3/8" so you'll get a good ballpark reading.

Then when you are loaded you can measure again. You will probably lose 1" ~ 1-1/2" depending. Have your rider sit in the front seat while you measure (or vise-versa). This will get you close enough as the rider on the back does not contribute much to the loading in the front.

Then use the Shock Adjusters to bring the nose of your Spyder back to that original measurement. You might want to go another 1/4" ~ 1/2" higher depending on your preference. But I do not suggest going a lot higher as this will begin to affect your alignment and steering geometry.

2nd, with the increased pre-load adjustment you won't get as much 'Dive' or 'Lean'. This also effectively increases your ground clearance when you need it most. Driveway approaches, speed bumps, etc.

Once you have ridden some you can play with the number of turns on the shock adjusters to find your sweet spot.
 
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COOL You answered all my questions. ill be picking up a set at spyderquest.

At Spyderquest Netzley tire sells and installs these adjusters. As they were doing a laser alignment on my RT they showed me there spring compressor set up, quite impressive. They were doing a lot of BajaRon sway bar installs also. Great guys to work with.
 
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