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Won't start - Dead Battery?

TicketBait

RT-S PE#0412
let me explain what got to this point,

Before I have bike towed to dealership, :helpsmilie: 2010RTS SE5
battery replaced less than 2 years old OEM



Bike has been running fine all year. Only put 500 miles local errands around town.

Moved bike to different part of garage and did not have on battery tender for say 3 weeks.

Went to start and lights on dash come on press mode button then start and here one loud click and then nothing.

Put battery tender on over night, voltage meter says 12.7 volts, go to start get limp mode, check transmission.

Then same thing, dash goes dead then flickering of lights maybe because I still had tender connected :dontknow:

then check my spyder codes app and says my 2 codes were C0020 and P0504 The C0020 is a fuse maybe out?

I am not tech savvy, did watch finless bobs video on battery removal. Would never attempt, above my pay grade

Also believe fuse box is in front trunk behind lining.

Thinking maybe just connection.

If just a fuse, and am told which type, maybe I could replace.

Did a search and apparently there maybe other fuses there I could swap around

What could a novice do........or is there someone in the Los Angeles area that would come to my garage in Santa Monica

(will pay handsomely) to fix.

Seriously
:bowdown:

Open to all suggestions,

Once I get her running was going to have an oil change done.

Have to leave in cage now, will be back later today.

Ok trying to be the mechanic and fix, but have more questions in post #10
Ticketbait

Final result
:bowdown: finless Bob installed new battery for me and she is up and running in post #28
:yes::2excited:
 
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Very first thing is check battery connections, take off and clean. Also check ground connection to frame by the battery. The best check is to have voltmeter on battery and hit the starter to see if voltage falls below 10.5 volts. Then would be battery problem. If it just clicks and does not fall off, you have a connection problem.
 
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Very first thing is check battery connections, take off and clean. Also check ground connection to frame by the battery. The best check is to have voltmeter on battery and hit the starter to see if voltage falls below 10.5 volts. Then would be battery problem. If it just clicks and does not fall off, you have a connection problem.

Thanks Jerry, Trying to remove stuff to get to terminals to check connection, I won't attempt by myself. Don't have confidence in the mechanical stuff needed to dis assemble parts off bike to get to battery.:opps: yeah, don't think battery is bad, probably connections. Do fuses have anything to do with it not starting?
 
Your battery on a 2010 RT should be just under the seat towards the rear. Just have panel on left rear by passenger handle.
Doubt if fuses are problem. But won't rule out.
 
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Hey Ticket. It needs to be put on a battery CHARGER overnight, not just a tender. Try that first before you start tearing stuff all apart. Just connect the charger to the positive and negative terminals under the seat. Any 2a/10a charger will do. Well, in a perfect world, use one with an AGM battery mode. But in a pinch, a standard one will do. Set to 2a setting until it turns itself off.
 
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Thanks for your help so far,

Ok, I will try later today to put a charger on the battery and check the connections after watching Lamonsters quick short to the point video on how to get to terminals .
Thanks Jerry for the youtube suggestion there were probably 50 videos to choose from :D



crossing fingers, will report back if I get stuck.
 
Ok, I opened up the battery cover :yes::2excited:shown in Lamonsters video,
I see the negative connection but where is the positive connection and ground so I can clean that?

Is it under the red cap in the first picture?

Do I need to remove stuff to get a charger clamp on it?

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Another dumb question, I have a battery. charger that works with different types of batteries. Is this a 6 volt or 12 volt, never mind I see it says YUASA 12V.

My jump start charger has various settings (see photo below. Which one do I use? 12v Standard or 12 V AGM , 12V Gel Cell ??

DA7bAEgSQWqLzmaIE637Cg.jpg
I have jump started many a car, when jumping the bike do I just hook to positive and metal ground?

This is what it is currently doing
 
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In order to get a clean shot at the positive terminal at the battery, you need to remove that left side panel. The terminal is inside a red rubber boot. Directions for removing that are in your manual. But basically, the oil check panel, left side mirror, left side upper panel all come off first. Remember that the silver torx screws you see between the upper and lower panels are not to be unscrewed. There are pins behind them that go into rubber grommets.

The red terminal you see under the seat in your picture is, in fact, a positive terminal connection, just not the one right at the battery. You would remove that rubber cover and clip your charger's positive lead to that and the charger's negative lead to the ground terminal on the right side there under the seat. You'll see a bolt head with some wires going to it bolting everything to the frame.

The battery is a 12v AGM. I wouldn't use the jump start feature right now. No need to hit the battery with that kind of current. You need a full charge not a jump start right now. Just set it to a 2 amp charge and let it do its thing overnight. All those instructions should be in the charger manual. It looks like a smart enough charger so that, once the battery is fully charged, the charger will go into a maintaining / desulfating mode - which is exactly what you need. Then see how it is in the morning.

The charging system on the V-Twin is pretty anemic. Even with a battery tender, 500 miles this year is hardly enough to keep the battery properly charged. Not saying you couldn't have something else going on, but let's bring the battery back to health first. It may even need replaced. I think those codes are irrelevant at this point.
 
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The red rubber is the cover for the positive terminal, you'll need to take it off (or move to the side) in order to get the jumper to the positive post. My dash did exactly the same thing last month, the battery in mine was bad. Good luck.
 
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When you do remove the panel that exposes the battery you should also see the starter relay that is in front of the battery. There will be a heavy gage wire running from the positive (red) battery terminal to it. Make sure that is a tight connection. If louse you will get a click no mater how charged the battery is.

Good hunting and good luck!
 
OMG Brother!! Man, I am running on fumes here, actually working lots of over time, fixing cars, or taking cars too be fixed while I work all the time, man I will try too slow down and read your problems guy (try this - what would you tell folks to do with same problem in the chats mode?) Basically, I have to tone down the overactive thinking when I work on my cycle, I put too much thought into how much and what the hell is wrong when it is right in front of me!

Do you suppose the new battery just ended its life term, you say under 2 years old, could it be a bit longer, but you just lost track of time-lines? It really sounds like the battery might have shorted out in the inside plates department and one cell is gone! Just from a quick glance at the information - if this is not it, drive over to my house so we can gather all the spyder guys around me and tear into that baby and get-er running! :thumbup:

Let's try cleaning up those connections first - I slowed down a bit looked at the photos, those connectors might be glazed, or corroded, not with the heavy clumps of crap, just the post with a glaze, try cleaning up the post with a wire brush, clean the battery compartment it might conduct a short also, clean bayyybeee clean!
 
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Hello Ticketbait. You know there is DANGER there? Don't touch anything metal to your positive terminal and the frame or other component at the same time! That would be a direct short which will spark and cause terrific heat. Please be careful.
 
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Hello Ticketbait. You know there is DANGER there? Don't touch anything metal to your positive terminal and the frame or other component at the same time! That would be a direct short which will spark and cause terrific heat. Please be careful.

Leaving on a planned trip, going to see" Pageant of the Masters" down in Laguna Beach, will be back Monday. Leaving battery on Tender but me thinks I will need to jump start. Before I do will probably revisit this thread and ask questions so I don't kill the bike or myself.;) May need help getting rest of panels off. Oh well live and learn, or learn and ride.......or pay someone so I can ride :roflblack:
 
Leaving on a planned trip, going to see" Pageant of the Masters" down in Laguna Beach, will be back Monday. Leaving battery on Tender but me thinks I will need to jump start. Before I do will probably revisit this thread and ask questions so I don't kill the bike or myself.;) May need help getting rest of panels off. Oh well live and learn, or learn and ride.......or pay someone so I can ride :roflblack:

If you like since I am close to you. Order the Yashua battery and I will come to your place and replace it for you :)

Bob
 
If you like since I am close to you. Order the Yashua battery and I will come to your place and replace it for you :)

Bob

Atta boy Bob! :clap:OP, Can't beat that!

I just did a brake fluid change for an unknown to me at the time, Ducati rider. He was new to the area and asked for help on a local Ducati forum which netted him a bunch of smartass replies! :banghead: Even tho I no longer have my S4RS and even if I never had one to start with, I would still help out any rider asking for help.... :joke:
 
I can't wait to get this thing running!! I hope TcketBait will come back with a happy end to this story! ;)
 
Hey guy, it's been a few days, did everything go ok? Battery wise ... ??
 
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