• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Received my new Elka Stage 2 suspenders.

F

fulltimer

Member
A snitch disappointed. The rep told me the compression was also adjustable but the "stuff" that came with it indicates only the ride height and rebound. Can't WAIT to get them installed though. With 35K miles on the stock shocks and almost all 2 up, it's really toast. I did talk to some existing owners at Spyderfest who are riding them and they all said they were really happy with them.

I'll let you know. Should have them on soon.
 
Be sure to read all you can on the various threads here about changing the front shocks. It can be frustrating until you figure out the right technique...... especially if you have large hands. And, the ride height adjustment is your compression adjustment. Lots of good information to be found on this forum. Good luck
 
canamjhb said:
And, the ride height adjustment is your compression adjustment. Lots of good information to be found on this forum. Good luck
Click to expand...

Eh? Not according to Wilbers, canam. Your ride height adjustment is your spring preload. The Wilbers supplier told me that the analogy they use is that Compression damping is to smooth your way into the pothole and Rebound damping is to smooth your way out;). I wish now that I had gone for the next stage Wilber shocks with Rebound AND Compression adjustment due to the badly potholed roads around here. Not that I am unhappy with them.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
I stand corrected. I was confusing stiffness (preload) with dampening. Thanks for waking me up......
 
some of us are a little slow

canamjhb said:
Be sure to read all you can on the various threads here about changing the front shocks. It can be frustrating until you figure out the right technique...... especially if you have large hands. And, the ride height adjustment is your compression adjustment. Lots of good information to be found on this forum. Good luck
Click to expand...

Any tips on what to use for a search criteria?. I tried my best guesses and got nothing. But I admit to being the worlds worst searcher and surfer. I have been planning on using this forum to get educated on how to change both front and back and still have my fingers left. Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
fulltimer said:
Any tips on what to use for a search criteria?. I tried my best guesses and got nothing. But I admit to being the worlds worst searcher and surfer. I have been planning on using this forum to get educated on how to change both front and back and still have my fingers left. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Go to the shop talk section for RTs. Type in "front shock installation" That will bring up lots of good stuff. A very good post was done under the heading of "New Elka Shock installation".

A few tips.....You do not need to remove any body panels or wheels. Pay particular attention to raising and lowering your jack when performing the shock removal/install and bolt tightening. Your top shock bolt is installed from front to back with the nut towards the back of the bike. Install it the other way with the nut towards the front of the bike. Makes life a lot easier and your shock will never know. A little useful hint to getting that top nut and bolt.....Get some double sticky tape. put a hole in it the size of the shock bolt. With your old shock out and before you begin the new installation, put your top bolt in the bracket using the tape on the nut. Then remove the bolt leaving the nut stuck to the front of the bracket by the tape. This locates your nut in the right place. Then just insert your new shock and carefully start the threads by hand. Once started you can easily get a wrench on the nut and tighten down from the bolt side. Or, do what I did. Had my wife with much smaller hands get the nut started on the bolt. It actually is pretty easy to do. Good luck
 
Joel The Biker said:
No leaks? I have heard of some people having to get them rebuilt after only a short time. Do they really make a noticeable difference in ride and handling?
Click to expand...

I have not had any problems with mine. I am thinking of getting them rebuilt after this riding season only because they do recommend having done to replace the oil. I do know someone that had an issue but Elka took care of the problem. The downside, he had to send the shocks back to have them repaired. Once he got them back no issues in fact I'm friends with the person he sold his bike to and he has had no problems. Hope this helps!
 
Joel The Biker said:
No leaks? I have heard of some people having to get them rebuilt after only a short time. Do they really make a noticeable difference in ride and handling?
Click to expand...

I bought my bike used and it had the Elkas already installed. Rode it home 1300 miles from the selling dealer. Both shocks had leaky seals by the time I got home. The selling dealer sent me 2 new OEM shocks in the mail. I installed them and contacted Elka. Elka rep. told me there was a time period when they got some defective seals from a vendor. My shocks were 3 years old and had little more than 8K miles. Sent them to Elka who rebuilt them for 1/2 normal price. Happy with that. I reinstalled the Elkas and after 16K miles have had zero issues. It took me a bit to get the shocks dialed in to my liking. At first, the pre-load seemed too stiff so I softened that up. But went too soft so cranked another turn and now they are just right. The downside for adjusting the pre-load is you have to take the weight off the bike in order to turn the adjustment collar. But once set, all is good. After having a chance to compare both shocks, I would not go back to the OEM. But I do have a nearly new set in the garage for back up if needed.....
 
canamjhb said:
Go to the shop talk section for RTs. Type in "front shock installation" That will bring up lots of good stuff. A very good post was done under the heading of "New Elka Shock installation".

A few tips.....You do not need to remove any body panels or wheels. Pay particular attention to raising and lowering your jack when performing the shock removal/install and bolt tightening. Your top shock bolt is installed from front to back with the nut towards the back of the bike. Install it the other way with the nut towards the front of the bike. Makes life a lot easier and your shock will never know. A little useful hint to getting that top nut and bolt.....Get some double sticky tape. put a hole in it the size of the shock bolt. With your old shock out and before you begin the new installation, put your top bolt in the bracket using the tape on the nut. Then remove the bolt leaving the nut stuck to the front of the bracket by the tape. This locates your nut in the right place. Then just insert your new shock and carefully start the threads by hand. Once started you can easily get a wrench on the nut and tighten down from the bolt side. Or, do what I did. Had my wife with much smaller hands get the nut started on the bolt. It actually is pretty easy to do. Good luck
Click to expand...

I will get on it tonight. Have been away from the forum for a few days. My wife seemed to think a new water pump for the RV was first on my list. Anyway, thanks for the guidance and the tips. I'll be doing some reading tonight. I probably won't get to work on it until next week but will report back.
 
GOT THEM INSTALLED

:yikes::yes: HOLY COW Can't believe the difference. I have ridden about a hundred miles one up and today the wife and I did about 60 miles two up, which is the way I had them ordered to be set up, and the difference in handling was truly a complete leap up. The tires just hug the road. They just suck the energy out of bumps. That new Elka in the back is making friends with my wife's back real quick.

Thanks to all for the tips and directions for installation help. Lessened the skinned knuckles.
 
Glad to be any help I can. That is how we all learn about the :spyder2: . Thanks for sharing your experience.....:thumbup:
 
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