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SPYDER DPS RECALL UPDATE FROM BRP

I still think it is a function of ambient temp. 95 degrees and above and the surging starts. Down in the lower ranges it runs fine. I sometimes long for the old CV carbs and the ability to change jets to get what you want.

Jack if you can change jets in a CV carb I'm sure you can pinch off a purge valve hose to see if that's your problem. So far I've only read two post of folks who did it and the surging went away. Why not give it a try. It would take less time than it takes to make all these post about surging. nojoke
 
Rode again today and I'm trying all kinds of combinations to see if I can get any of the issues others have talked about.

I can say for sure my PS is much better, especially in slow situations. It steers easier than it ever did before. And the catch/glitch at startup has not occured since the upgrade.

I tried riding at lower RPM's today and riding slow and easy. It's like walking on a broken foot to me but I figure it was for research.

It does gurgle and sputter a bit around 3000 RPM, expecially when cold. But I have to get it just right to do that and it won't do it all the time, especially at operating temp. And it is pretty mild.

We have to remember this motor is not really designed to run at 3000 RPM. I'm not surprised.

Checking my exhaust tip I'd say I'm running richer than before as the powder gathered there is definitely darker. I haven't changed anything on my Juice Box.

What is odd to me is the variation in results everyone is having. Granted, we have different mods that will effect the final result. But still, we seem to have different results even within the same mods or no mods configurations.

I can say I am more happy with my Update every time I ride. Normally I would never pay this much attention to the differences in before and after. Nothing has been earth shattering. Just a general improvemen. Like a tune up.

I hope everyone can eventually get to a point where their Spyder is running correctly.
 
Hmm.... my impression was just the opposite. I thought that most of the fires occurred on bone stock Spyders.

There were speculations that aftermarket mods might be the problem. But that was never determined to be an issue. At least to my knowledge.

Ron i was thinking more along the lines that it does not matter if you have or don't have any mods we should all just wait and see what they find. I like hdx's take on the situation.
 
Today I disconnected the hose runing to the purge valve. I then plugged it with a screw in bolt. Took the bike for a ride 95 degrees + and got it to 5 bars. All surging was gone. The bike had all the sharpness to throttle input that it had before and all is well. Question: I now have a purge valve hanging in the open. Do I need to do anything else? What about the other hose running to the cannister? Advice please. I am very happy with how the bike runs, but I don't want to do something that will damage the machine.
 
My DPS Upgrade Experience Was a Little Different

Shortly after the upgrade was done, my Spyder died a couple of times while coming to a stop. Clutch was disengaged, so it wasn't a stall. It just died. This actually happened while I was on the ride with Dudley and Jennifer. However, after that, it started running normally again, and it has been absolutely fine since. I don't have a JB or aftermarket pipe.
In my Spyder's case, it seemed to take a few hundred kilometres for everything to reset, and now it runs as well as, or even better than ever. :dontknow:
Regards,
Bruce
 
Today I disconnected the hose runing to the purge valve. I then plugged it with a screw in bolt. Took the bike for a ride 95 degrees + and got it to 5 bars. All surging was gone. The bike had all the sharpness to throttle input that it had before and all is well. Question: I now have a purge valve hanging in the open. Do I need to do anything else? What about the other hose running to the cannister? Advice please. I am very happy with how the bike runs, but I don't want to do something that will damage the machine.


It is my understanding that what you did was for purposes of troubleshooting. One should hook it back up and make an appointment with dealer - tell them what you found and ask them it they can fix it. Maybe you'll be lucky and it is a bad purge valve.

Of course if it isn't the purge valve then you are SOL until BRP makes a change to recall software - EPA help!

Just my $.02 - I may be totally out to lunch.
 
They obviously read the posts from this board...too bad they don't do anything other than read.

How the heck would they know about aftermarket anything? The people with the JBs have the best chance of correcting any issue...most of the people here with problems don't even have a JB and those who do are making corrections on THEIR update!

This bike is supposed to have an adaptive computer...meaning, changing the pipe, filter, etc... are relatively innocuous changes that the bike should be able to take into consideration when figuring the fuel/O2.

Their post is like a screwed up talking points from here...

Okay, I'm off my soapbox...not impressed at all! :gaah:
Maybe they hired Sarah Palin to write it..... :roflblack:

No more evap can for me--- seems to run pretty good ---- BUT --- I'm not feeling my steering is as easy as it was right after the update--- going back in and going to request a NEW DPS .
 
Today I disconnected the hose runing to the purge valve. I then plugged it with a screw in bolt. Took the bike for a ride 95 degrees + and got it to 5 bars. All surging was gone. The bike had all the sharpness to throttle input that it had before and all is well. Question: I now have a purge valve hanging in the open. Do I need to do anything else? What about the other hose running to the cannister? Advice please. I am very happy with how the bike runs, but I don't want to do something that will damage the machine.

It is my understanding that what you did was for purposes of troubleshooting. One should hook it back up and make an appointment with dealer - tell them what you found and ask them it they can fix it. Maybe you'll be lucky and it is a bad purge valve.
:agree:

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huC0pXtPcug"]YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia]
 
Pinched off the evap line as per Lamonsters instructions and the Spyder is back to running like before the update. Now to convince my dealer that this is the problem. Is there any problem running with it like this for a few days till I get back to Florida? Thanks for any info....Dave
 
Pinched off the evap line as per Lamonsters instructions and the Spyder is back to running like before the update. Now to convince my dealer that this is the problem. Is there any problem running with it like this for a few days till I get back to Florida? Thanks for any info....Dave

Dave , if it were not for emission laws , the purge canister and that hose would not even be on the bike. What the hose you pinched off does is suck gas fumes (via engine vacum at the throttle body) out of the purge canister and runs them through the engine so they are burnt , thus not letting them escape into the atmosphere . By plugging the hose you have done NOTHING to impare the running of the spyder . Had the spyder been manufactured in 2006 that tube , and canister would not even be there.
BRP's webcast yesterday to the dealers addressed this issue. BRP is working on a fix for this issue, they acknowledged that they altered the timing of the purge valve in one of the reflashes during the recall and that appears to be part of the problem. If your dealer doesn't acknowledge the issue and didn't watch the video , find a new dealer.
Back to your question , all you just did by pinching that hose was eliminate a potential vacum leak caused by a purge valve that is being told to operate at times that are not making the spyder happy. Ride on and be happy! Once BRP comes out with a fix , go get it done and un restrict your hose , ONLY IF YOU WANT TO!!! :clap:
 
Dave , if it were not for emission laws , the purge canister and that hose would not even be on the bike. What the hose you pinched off does is suck gas fumes (via engine vacum at the throttle body) out of the purge canister and runs them through the engine so they are burnt , thus not letting them escape into the atmosphere . By plugging the hose you have done NOTHING to impare the running of the spyder . Had the spyder been manufactured in 2006 that tube , and canister would not even be there.
BRP's webcast yesterday to the dealers addressed this issue. BRP is working on a fix for this issue, they acknowledged that they altered the timing of the purge valve in one of the reflashes during the recall and that appears to be part of the problem. If your dealer doesn't acknowledge the issue and didn't watch the video , find a new dealer.
Back to your question , all you just did by pinching that hose was eliminate a potential vacum leak caused by a purge valve that is being told to operate at times that are not making the spyder happy. Ride on and be happy! Once BRP comes out with a fix , go get it done and un restrict your hose , ONLY IF YOU WANT TO!!! :clap:

Thanks for the great explanation. Gonna keep it this way tull BRP comes out with a fix that works...LOL
I'm off to the Cherahola Skyway for some sweet Ryding.......
 
For the record, I just spoke live with BRP Tech Support and was informed that while they investigate the post-steering recall issues, it will NOT void the warranty to continue ryding the Spyder.

I was concerned because the symptoms feel just like fuel starvation (lean) which is normally not good in the long run for a gasoline engine.

Yippee...I can go ryding again!!!
 
For the record, I just spoke live with BRP Tech Support and was informed that while they investigate the post-steering recall issues, it will NOT void the warranty to continue ryding the Spyder.

I was concerned because the symptoms feel just like fuel starvation (lean) which is normally not good in the long run for a gasoline engine.

Yippee...I can go ryding again!!!

It may not void the warranty but having it run badly because of a too lean condition is never good for the motor. Not to mention it must be a pain to have it run that way.

Seems like it would be a whole lot better to just put a small clamp on the purge valve hose, tighten it up until the hose is pinched off and solve the entire issue. If nothing else you would know for sure if it was the purge valve or something else.

BRP CAN'T tell you to do that because of EPA regulations, but they probably would if they could.

Why ride around with an engine running poorly and possibly suffer engine damage when the fix is so easy?
 
It may not void the warranty but having it run badly because of a too lean condition is never good for the motor. Not to mention it must be a pain to have it run that way.

Seems like it would be a whole lot better to just put a small clamp on the purge valve hose, tighten it up until the hose is pinched off and solve the entire issue. If nothing else you would know for sure if it was the purge valve or something else.

BRP CAN'T tell you to do that because of EPA regulations, but they probably would if they could.

Why ride around with an engine running poorly and possibly suffer engine damage when the fix is so easy?

:agree:
 
Thanks for the great explanation. Gonna keep it this way tull BRP comes out with a fix that works...LOL
I'm off to the Cherahola Skyway for some sweet Ryding.......

Been working GREAT for me and a lot of others. No guarantees in life, sometime you got to roll the dice and take your chances.

You may be missing something either way!
 
I'm willing to concede to your expertise and do the temporary fix BUT are there ANY drawbacks to blocking the purge valve hose? Will pressure or vacuum be built up that needs to be relieved? Will I be spewing more emissions? Will it warp the space/time continuum?
 
I'm willing to concede to your expertise and do the temporary fix BUT are there ANY drawbacks to blocking the purge valve hose? Will pressure or vacuum be built up that needs to be relieved? Will I be spewing more emissions? Will it warp the space/time continuum?

I have to admit, it is a definite on warping the space time continuum. But you won't notice it since you'll be synchronized with the shift. It will be the rest of us who will suffer quantum displacment.

But you'll have to go to a different forum to get that one worked out! :D

My feeling is the clamp is a temporary troubleshooting tool. Quick, easy and sure but should not be permanante. It will, over time, aggrevate the original problem of fumes building in the evap canister. But that would take some time.

If the clamp does the trick (and I am almost positive that it will) then you need to go to step 2 and make the fix long term. You can still return the system to original easily if BRP comes out with a Fix for the Fix that Fixes the Fix (if you know what I mean).

The long term fix is not all that much more effort by why do it until you know for sure that the evap canister is the problem.

I know of 2 people on the forum that have tried this and it fixed their issues immediatly (which is exactly what I think you will find).

Let us know how it goes.
 
It may not void the warranty but having it run badly because of a too lean condition is never good for the motor. Not to mention it must be a pain to have it run that way.

Seems like it would be a whole lot better to just put a small clamp on the purge valve hose, tighten it up until the hose is pinched off and solve the entire issue. If nothing else you would know for sure if it was the purge valve or something else.

BRP CAN'T tell you to do that because of EPA regulations, but they probably would if they could.

Why ride around with an engine running poorly and possibly suffer engine damage when the fix is so easy?

My concern, strictly on speculation, is that the reprogramming was to help prevent fumes from building up and venting (possible fire hazard) from the charcoal cannister. I would suggest if you pinch the hose at least add a hose extension to the one coming from the charcoal cannister to vent fumes out from under the plastics so the fumes won't accumulate.
 
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Dave , if it were not for emission laws , the purge canister and that hose would not even be on the bike. What the hose you pinched off does is suck gas fumes (via engine vacum at the throttle body) out of the purge canister and runs them through the engine so they are burnt , thus not letting them escape into the atmosphere . By plugging the hose you have done NOTHING to impare the running of the spyder . Had the spyder been manufactured in 2006 that tube , and canister would not even be there.
BRP's webcast yesterday to the dealers addressed this issue. BRP is working on a fix for this issue, they acknowledged that they altered the timing of the purge valve in one of the reflashes during the recall and that appears to be part of the problem. If your dealer doesn't acknowledge the issue and didn't watch the video , find a new dealer.
Back to your question , all you just did by pinching that hose was eliminate a potential vacum leak caused by a purge valve that is being told to operate at times that are not making the spyder happy. Ride on and be happy! Once BRP comes out with a fix , go get it done and un restrict your hose , ONLY IF YOU WANT TO!!! :clap:

I agree 100%. The more I've read about these evap cans - the less I like them. So a few trees are just going to have to buck up and do more work because of me removing the evap can. Acutally - I'm planting 4 new trees next week--- so THERE!:D

Anyone know if they put these on any other products? Probably don't have to because they are off-road.

Mines still outside - sitting in the rain.

Really nice to not have nasty smells!

BTW - after an hour ride up to 'someguys' house on Sunday - and parking it - I noticed a small drop or two on the pavement right below my new tank vent line--- and my tank was down to 2 bars !

So at 2 bars there was enough spash or whatever to get a bit of gas up into the vent hose--- thru the fuel filter I installed and down onto the ground.

Would be interesting to put a catch can on it and see how much gas really gets dumped .
 
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