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Need a little advice..... corners like a pig on ice.

dean.madson

New member
I rode a Gold Wing Trike for the past 9 years.
I now have a 2016 RTS that I have about 1,500 miles on. We were riding on some twisty roads this weekend and the cornering was a challenge.:shocked:
I was 2 up. Not a real aggressive rider am I. (As Yoda would say).
Is the Baha Ron Sway bar the answer to my dilemma? I know I can just slow done, but where's the fun in that. Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
Give it some time... nojoke
Unless the VSS was kicking-in and holding you back: you weren't close to the limits. :D
(But yes: his anti-swaybar would help...)
 
I had the same problem when I started,

First piece of advice, pump up the rear shock (assuming you have the switch to do so) it made a huge difference, especially with riding two up.

Second, yes, I really found the sway bar worked. made the bike far less twitchy in corners, and made it so I could find my line way easier, instead of all over the place.

I'm sure you'll get lots of answers here, so these are just my findings from a first time spider owner (last year).
 
Have you read the do's and don'ts thread yet? Lots of good information. The GW and GW trike do not handle like the :spyder2: It is a whole different machine. :yes::yes:
 
:agree: with Bob, just give it some time. There is a learning curve, the more experience you get with the spyder, the better you learn how the spyder handles. Dale
 
Attached is some additional information about cornering and twisties that I posted in another thread.

Information that I have posted a few times concerning "the death grip."

Pretend that there are eggs between your hands and the grips. Don't break the eggs. Use more of a gentle push/pull on the handgrips. Steer INTO the turn. Countersteering does not work on :spyder2::spyder:,s.

On tight turns, you should enter the turn at such a speed that you can accelerate as your enter. I enter from the inside of the curve and track to the outside. I do not touch any of the center lines. If there is extra room on the right, I use it. More straight = less "g" forces.

Leaning "slightly" into the curve and planting the outside foot will result hardly any "g" forces. I can do curves at 20+ posted without going over the center line, and the :ani29: feels like its on a track. Most of the time I am comfortable with +10. :thumbup::thumbup:

Make sure your passenger leans the same as you do.
 
Check front tire air psi. Most people run about 18. Dealers tend to set it around 15.

Yes the Baja ron sway bar does make a big difference but I would recommend try air pressure settings and time before adding any mods.
 
Check front tire air psi. Most people run about 18. Dealers tend to set it around 15.

Yes the Baja ron sway bar does make a big difference but I would recommend try air pressure settings and time before adding any mods.

Also keep the front tires as close to the same psi as possible ( within a half a pound)
 
And others have said, give it time. I hated me 14 RTL when I first got it but after a few thousand miles things calmed down and I love it now.
 
Have you had the front wheels laser aligned? You can't trust the alignment out of the box and incorrect alignment will cause incorrect handling.
 
I had a 2011 RT and had the preloads set to maximum. In that configuration, the cornering was good, not great, but good. I traded the 2011 for a 2015 and the cornering was horrible, not bad, but horrible. The front would dip on me, it would roll into the corner and then try to pop back up. I was continually having to adjust my line in the corner. Not a pleasant situation and non of the tricks I learned while riding the 2011 worked. I debated on the sway bar or new shocks for the front end. I wound up replacing the OEM shocks with Elka Stage 2 shocks. That change the bike to one that is now a pleasure to drive. It handles better then the 2011 did. I can now pick my line going into the corner and not have to worry about the bob and weave that was occurring before.

I do agree with everything posted above, but once you have given it some time and ensuring you are not using the "death grip" and if your symptoms are similar to what I described above, then a sway bar can help, but I would suggest a bit more money and go with the Elka shocks.

Just my $0.02 worth...
 
Yea, at about 400 miles I was sure I made a bad purchase.

Now at over 20k I'm loving it. Do like akspyderman and others tell and you and you'll be loving it soon too. One thing I did to start with was I installed a small set of Mr. Gasket's donut style front shock spring spacers. Stiffens the front shocks and helps quite a bit by taking away the squishy frontend feeling. After that I installed Baja Ron's sway bar. Also keep your rear suspension pumped up.
 
I had a 2011 RT and had the preloads set to maximum. In that configuration, the cornering was good, not great, but good. I traded the 2011 for a 2015 and the cornering was horrible, not bad, but horrible. The front would dip on me, it would roll into the corner and then try to pop back up. I was continually having to adjust my line in the corner. Not a pleasant situation and non of the tricks I learned while riding the 2011 worked. I debated on the sway bar or new shocks for the front end. I wound up replacing the OEM shocks with Elka Stage 2 shocks. That change the bike to one that is now a pleasure to drive. It handles better then the 2011 did. I can now pick my line going into the corner and not have to worry about the bob and weave that was occurring before.

I do agree with everything posted above, but once you have given it some time and ensuring you are not using the "death grip" and if your symptoms are similar to what I described above, then a sway bar can help, but I would suggest a bit more money and go with the Elka shocks.

Just my $0.02 worth...
:agree: 100%

But I did it in stages. First I did the sway bar and that helped a little. Then I changed the shocks and it helped yet more. Still need to change tires and get alignment then should be perfect. Remember, the sway bar and shocks are designed to do two different things. They complement each other and the absolute best performance for all conditions would be to use both.

Only thing I find different than others here is rear airbag. I used to ryde at top or one bar down, especially when 2 up and found it a bit more 'tipsy'. I now ryde 1 bar up from bottom, even 2 up and like that the best. Of course my dealer could have screwed stuff up when they replaced compressor, wouldn't surprise me, so best bet it to just try different settings to see what works best for you.
 
:agree::agree: with everything said above. I put my new sway bar on a little while ago & I must say it helps a lot. I feel a lot safer in the corners.
 
I rode a Gold Wing Trike for the past 9 years.
I now have a 2016 RTS that I have about 1,500 miles on. We were riding on some twisty roads this weekend and the cornering was a challenge.:shocked:
I was 2 up. Not a real aggressive rider am I. (As Yoda would say).
Is the Baja Ron Sway bar the answer to my dilemma? I know I can just slow done, but where's the fun in that. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I also came to Spyders from a Goldwing Trike. I rode that trike for 4 years after 50+ on two wheels. I thought the Wing handled terrible, but I got used to it and could go pretty good. When I went to the Spyder,it felt better but I still wasn't where I wanted to be. Time and practice will improve your cornering. Also your bike does not have adjustable shocks. If you are not ready to spend the money for new shocks ( and they are spendy) the get from Baja Ron a set of his shock adjusters. Ride with them for awhile and if you still need more help then go to the Baja Ron sway bar. At some point fairly soon you will want a laser alignment. I had mine done by Squared Away and it does make a big difference. When your front tires wear out (or sooner if you really need more performance) get a decent set of car tires on the front. The extra sidewall strength will really help. Take a little time between each change to see if it's enough or if you want more or if you make a good change.
And ride ride ride.
 
I had the front shocks replaced with Elka stage 2 at 2016 Spyderfest and it changed the handling
of my 2013 rtl unbelievable well
Exditchdigger:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:
 
PIG ON ICE

:lecturef_smilie: Once you learn how to drive it ...it doesn't ....... I can keep up with most anybody , except the crotch rockets.......jmho ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Of course I sell sway bars and shock spring adjusters, which I know everyone takes into consideration when I post on these subjects. And well you should. Please know that I appreciate each one of you who have helped in the development, testing, and production stages for each one of my custom products. And also to each one who has purchased, installed, and given me quality and detailed feedback which has helped me make corrections and improvements where needed. I could not have done any of this without you! :thumbup:

Just to reminisce a bit. I purchased my Spyder in 2007 because Lamont said I should. And I always do what Lamont tells me to do.... :rolleyes:

When I finally took delivery of my brand new Spyder and rode it, I absolutely hated it. A hatred that goes beyond my ability to describe. Having ridden 2 wheels for nearly my entire life, the Spyder simply felt all wrong. If I had test ridden it first, I highly doubt I'd have ever purchased one.

The only thing that kept me going was Lamont. He had gotten his Spyder about a month before and he was riding it fine! (That bothered me quite a bit I can assure you!). I could not let him best me at this and besides, if I gave up he'd never let me live it down. So the die was cast and I was in this thing neck deep!

Eventually, I did get used to riding my new Spyder, and I really started to like it. But as I got better at riding it, I began to realize that it did not handle nearly as well as it should. One day, while Lamont and I were wrenching on my Spyder at his house, he said I should take his Spyder to pick up some hardware parts we needed to finish the project. He had upgraded shocks on his Spyder and I noticed the improvement in handling right away. I also realized that my DPS had never worked from the time I picked my Spyder up at the dealership in Florida. But that's another story.

I added the upgrade shocks to my Spyder and was happy with the results. But I was still not thrilled with the overall handling. So, I started working on an improved sway bar. But before I got very far, Lamont found a guy in California also working on an improved Sway Bar, (Evoluzione). I decided to just purchase a bar kit from him. I must say I found the improvement to be AMAZING! I was very impressed.

Then Evoluzione went out of business, (personal issues). I picked up were I'd left off and started producing a Sway Bar Kit of my own.

The Shock Adjusters came later when, in 2013, BRP decided to remove the adjusters that had come stock on every Spyder up until then. BRP has greatly improved the stock shocks over the years. But the inability to adjust for weight loading created new issues.

Every well designed product makes a positive difference. The ROLO Laser Alignment system is one case in point. And there is more than one way to improve the handling and control on a Spyder. The problem with many of these products is that it's hard to know what, or how much you are missing until they are installed. Some are fortunate enough to have a friend with the upgrade they are interested in already installed on their Spyder. This gives them a chance to 'Try before they Buy'. But most are left with the choice to either take the leap, or continue to wonder. And, enough of us have been burned by products that didn't deliver, making this a serious consideration.

With the Sway Bars and Shock Spring Adjusters it is simply a matter of physics. They will give you a flatter, more planted stance in curves, cross winds and when buffeted while passing big trucks. There can be no other possible outcome. The debate has always been whether or not this is needed, and, is the improvement enough to justify the expense.

Fortunately, the most common comment I get from customers has been; 'I just wish I had done it sooner'. It seems the longer a person rides their Spyder without the Bar Kit and or Shock Spring Adjusters installed, the more impressed they are with the results.

I didn't mean for this to get so long winded. I really wanted to express my gratitude for all the support I have received over the years from all of you here at Spyderlovers.com. It is sincerely and greatly appreciated.
 
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