COMPLETELY DEAD

[PMK]

Sure sounds like the Main Fuse, 40 amp has failed, regardless of appearance, unless as mentioned the wiring pulled loose from a connector.

The 40 amp powers the main relay and also the display.

 

[solidgranite]

I'll Check

Sure sounds like the Main Fuse, 40 amp has failed, regardless of appearance, unless as mentioned the wiring pulled loose from a connector.

The 40 amp powers the main relay and also the display.

Good suggestion...but if the Main Fuse was blown, would the bike start with jumper cables? Mine did.

 

[solidgranite]

I Don't Know the Age

If that is the original battery: do yourself a favor, and buy your RT a new one!
It's already done it's bit for "King & County"...Retire it!

Since I bought the bike used, I don't know the age of the battery. If I can get it done for a reasonable price at the dealer, its probably a good idea to put in a new one anyway. I plan on some long trips this summer, and don't want to get stranded.

I removed the battery cover plate yesterday, but couldn't see a date on the battery. Is there a date stamp or indicator of the battery's age? I checked to make sure the connections were tight, and even snugged them up a bit. I also made sure no other wires or connectors were touching the Positive battery connector (to avoid possible shorts).
The bike started right up after all this...so I'm thinking its either an old battery or a loose connection somewhere. My local dealer charges a fortune, so tracing down a loose connection or short could be really expensive! I'm hoping its just an old battery past its prime.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

MAIN FUSE

Good suggestion...but if the Main Fuse was blown, would the bike start with jumper cables? Mine did.

NO, the fuse is like a switch if it's blown no electricity goes past it .......Mike :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Good suggestion...but if the Main Fuse was blown, would the bike start with jumper cables? Mine did.

.

I think PMK was not answering your question but the original posters question. Your problem and the OP's problem are not the same. So the answers will not be the same for both. That's what happens when you Hijack someone elses thread. It gets confusing. May I suggest in future when you have a question about your Spyder. Please start your own thread.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

NEW BATTERY

Since I bought the bike used, I don't know the age of the battery. If I can get it done for a reasonable price at the dealer, its probably a good idea to put in a new one anyway. I plan on some long trips this summer, and don't want to get stranded.

I removed the battery cover plate yesterday, but couldn't see a date on the battery. Is there a date stamp or indicator of the battery's age? I checked to make sure the connections were tight, and even snugged them up a bit. I also made sure no other wires or connectors were touching the Positive battery connector (to avoid possible shorts).
The bike started right up after all this...so I'm thinking its either an old battery or a loose connection somewhere. My local dealer charges a fortune, so tracing down a loose connection or short could be really expensive! I'm hoping its just an old battery past its prime.

When I bought my NEW RT the Dealer didn't charge the New battery properly :banghead::banghead: ...... so now it won't hold a Charge PROPERLY .... I MUST keep it on a Maintainer because otherwise it has failed to start :banghead::banghead: ...... Get a Yuasa batt. and properly charge it yourself ..... You can get a minimum of 5 years maybe 7 if maintained correctly ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Since I bought the bike used, I don't know the age of the battery. If I can get it done for a reasonable price at the dealer, its probably a good idea to put in a new one anyway. I plan on some long trips this summer, and don't want to get stranded.

I removed the battery cover plate yesterday, but couldn't see a date on the battery. Is there a date stamp or indicator of the battery's age? I checked to make sure the connections were tight, and even snugged them up a bit. I also made sure no other wires or connectors were touching the Positive battery connector (to avoid possible shorts).
The bike started right up after all this...so I'm thinking its either an old battery or a loose connection somewhere. My local dealer charges a fortune, so tracing down a loose connection or short could be really expensive! I'm hoping its just an old battery past its prime.

.

Again by your symtoms. The problem is not with the battery. But if you want to put in a new battery go ahead. It won't fix anything. How old the battery is not that important. There is a reasonably high failure rate for new batteries.

Take the side panels off. Remove the battery. Take it to a battery or auto parts store. Trade it in for a new one. If you are curious if the old one was good. Have it load tested. They can tell you in minutes if it was good or not. Most places for free.

 

[PMK]

.

I think PMK was not answering your question but the original posters question. Your problem and the OP's problem are not the same. So the answers will not be the same for both. That's what happens when you Hijack someone elses thread. It gets confusing. May I suggest in future when you have a question about your Spyder. Please start your own thread.

Regarding the OP question, I did give a very quick look to the wiring diagram, and I believe that fuse, and possibly a relay further downstream will kill it dead if failed.

Maybe wrong, BB will know if. I missed it. All good.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

That's good advice. Thanks! I borrowed a multi-meter and checked the voltage. It read 12, so it appears that the battery is okay. Hopefully its a loose connection of either the positive or negative battery connection cables, or maybe a corroded connector. I sure hope so because that's something I can fix. If its something more complicated, like loose or bad connections in the ignition module, its way out of my league. I'm hoping for the simple and direct fix. Thanks again...

Voltage by itself doesn't tell you much. A near dead battery will show good voltage. What matters is the voltage when there is a load on it. Measure it when you push the start button.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[trikermutha]

You can tell when a battery is weak but load testing it will give you better results.

 

[billybovine]

Regarding the OP question, I did give a very quick look to the wiring diagram, and I believe that fuse, and possibly a relay further downstream will kill it dead if failed.

Maybe wrong, BB will know if. I missed it. All good.

Base on the description that nothing happens when the key is turned on. There are 2 different main fuses involved. J4 in the RFB. That powers the running lights and there are no relays in that circuit. On with the key. Then there is J4 in the LFB that powers everything else. The odds that 2 main fuses are burnt out at the same time I think are not very likely, but anything is possible. Only common factors are the battery and both circuits go through the ignition switch. That all I can see anyway.

 

[PaladinLV]

Correct AND a bad battery does not accept a charge correctly.
Ergo the problem SHOULD be either the ignition switch itself of a cable connected to the ignition switch.

Will know in @ 24 hours

AJ

Base on the description that nothing happens when the key is turned on. There are 2 different main fuses involved. J4 in the RFB. That powers the running lights and there are no relays in that circuit. On with the key. Then there is J4 in the LFB that powers everything else. The odds that 2 main fuses are burnt out at the same time I think are not very likely, but anything is possible. Only common factors are the battery and both circuits go through the ignition switch. That all I can see anyway.

 

[Al Gully]

I Just bought a Spyder, eagerly waiting for the outcome.

 

[rcturner]

You can tell when a battery is weak but load testing it will give you better results.

One of the old rules in batteries is "if it tests bad, it is bad. If it test good, it could still be bad.) You really cannot do an accurate test that will always simulate every possibility of real life for a battery. Replace it or at least try another one with the original disconnected.

 

[jaherbst]

When I bought my NEW RT the Dealer didn't charge the New battery properly :banghead::banghead: ...... so now it won't hold a Charge PROPERLY .... I MUST keep it on a Maintainer because otherwise it has failed to start :banghead::banghead: ...... Get a Yuasa batt. and properly charge it yourself ..... You can get a minimum of 5 years maybe 7 if maintained correctly ..... Mike :thumbup:

Not here in AZ or where the temps are 100+ for 5-6 months of the year. If batteries last three years you can consider yourself lucky. We change all of our batteries every 2.5 - 3.5 years. The excess heat when riding or driving here kills batteries quickly. For those living in S CA, AZ and TX take heed. Just put new battery in my truck yesterday.

Jack

 

[trikermutha]

One of the old rules in batteries is "if it tests bad, it is bad. If it test good, it could still be bad.) You really cannot do an accurate test that will always simulate every possibility of real life for a battery. Replace it or at least try another one with the original disconnected.

Majority of the time "BAD" connections are the issue and not a battery problem. The percentage is very low that you cannot find a weak or bad battery while testing it. :thumbup:

Charging a battery incorrectly can lead to a shorter life span.

 

[Highwayman2013]

Got to load test the battery before going to more complicated things. Let us know AJ.

 

[quasi]

batteries can be checked with a multimeter all one wants to. if there is not an actual load test then it doesn't mean a whole lot.

 

[PaladinLV]

Absolutely and the same here in Las Vegas

AJ

Not here in AZ or where the temps are 100+ for 5-6 months of the year. If batteries last three years you can consider yourself lucky. We change all of our batteries every 2.5 - 3.5 years. The excess heat when riding or driving here kills batteries quickly. For those living in S CA, AZ and TX take heed. Just put new battery in my truck yesterday.

Jack

 

[solidgranite]

Good Idea! Thanks!

.

Again by your symtoms. The problem is not with the battery. But if you want to put in a new battery go ahead. It won't fix anything. How old the battery is not that important. There is a reasonably high failure rate for new batteries.

Take the side panels off. Remove the battery. Take it to a battery or auto parts store. Trade it in for a new one. If you are curious if the old one was good. Have it load tested. They can tell you in minutes if it was good or not. Most places for free.

I'll do that. Hopefully my manual shows how to remove the panels. The battery cover was a bear to remove, even with the seat up all the way. I'm hoping the issue is as simple as replacing the battery.