COMPLETELY DEAD

[PaladinLV]

Got home the other day parked Spyder all as normal.


After parking decided I needed to move it a bit. Went to start it up and NOTHING.
Black screen, no lights, no sound . . nothing.

Checked battery 13.7; checked connections and all are tight; checked voltage at power outlet installed near left speaker (for heated gear) 13.7V

Thinking maybe the ignition switch but open to other ideas.

Tnx
AJ

 

[Cavman]

Did you check the kill switch? That just sounds weird to me? No lights and such. Thinking they may be a loose connection the ignition switch?
Hope this helps?
John

 

[trikermutha]

Fuse or Relay?

 

[SPYD3R]

tite

this may sound odd, but my RS had that issue yrs ago, and after pulling most my hair out and all the Tuperware off... i found that the NEGATIVE cable to the battery had come lose and was just far enough away from the terminal that there was no contact...
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[Bob Denman]

Since your bike is a 2014: you might as well start up front...
Check the fuses and relays, while you dig down to the batter. Check to make sure that everything is "Tight & Right". :thumbup:
(This is all after you've checked the Kill-Switch. )

I like to start with the easiest stuff first, and then move back up the line. nojoke

But beyond this: I've got nothing else! pps:

 

[Chupaca]

Interesting. ...

Seems you checked the right places and if you are getting power to the outlets and battery has full charge it would seem that the power is not getting to the after ignition system. Would start witht he fuses and relays. If you have anything that is powered after ignition then you may be right and the ignition switch is failing or it's connections are faulty. Do let us know what you find. :banghead:

 

[eddieshep999]

Do you have a 2nd key, maybe try it see what happens
I'm sure others will give more suggestion to try to get you going again
Hope you get it sorted

 

[billybovine]

Check fuse J4 in left fuse box.
Check fuse F2 in left fuse box.

Just to double check. Both the gauge cluster and running lights not coming on? Because they are 2 separate circuits going through the ignition switch.

Did you happen to turn the handlebars to full lock when you parked it. Sometimes if the wires are tie wrapped too short. the connector can be pulled off the bottom of the ignition switch.

 

[monkeyboymorton]

I would agree with the 'check the kill switch' first answer already given. The symptoms given are an exact match - i.e it appears totally dead.

I had the exact same thing on a road trip and was contemplating tow trucks and all sorts when I noticed I'd hit the kill switch by accident (I don't normally use it). Felt a bit silly but was just glad when it came back on.

 

[PaladinLV]

Kill Switch keeps bike from starting not other functions.
Thats why it's called a kill switch, it is meant to KILL the engine and keeps the bike from starting up not lights, cluster etc.

AJ

Did you check the kill switch? That just sounds weird to me? No lights and such. Thinking they may be a loose connection the ignition switch?
Hope this helps?
John

 

[PaladinLV]

Fused are good, but one can only check the coil of a relay, not the contacts and coils appear to be ok.

AJ

Seems you checked the right places and if you are getting power to the outlets and battery has full charge it would seem that the power is not getting to the after ignition system. Would start witht he fuses and relays. If you have anything that is powered after ignition then you may be right and the ignition switch is failing or it's connections are faulty. Do let us know what you find. :banghead:

 

[PaladinLV]

That's what I'm thinking!

AJ

Did you happen to turn the handlebars to full lock when you parked it. Sometimes if the wires are tie wrapped too short. the connector can be pulled off the bottom of the ignition switch.

 

[billybovine]

Another thought. The battery voltage is high, 13.7 V. I assume that was taken at no load. If so try it again with the key on. It's rare but maybe the battery is surface charged.

 

[solidgranite]

Same Thing Happened TODAY!

I stopped to gas up my 2012 RT-SE5, shut off the bike, turned the key and lifted the seat. Turned the key back to insert position, as always. Filled 'er up, closed the seat...turned the key and NOTHING...blank screen, no self-check, nothing. Kill switch in "on" position, trans. in N. NOTHING! Couldn't even pop off the e-brake or open the frunk. A guy offered to give me a jump, and surprisingly, that WORKED! Screen came on, went thru self-check and started as though everything was okay.

I have no way to test the battery, but have had it on a "tender" throughout the winter, connected via the cigar. lighter in the back compartment...always hot. The tender indicates the battery has 80+ % charge (by the little indicator lights). If one of the battery cables is loose, I can easily tighten it up, but don't want to get stranded on a long ride. If I don't find a loose battery cable, should I consider replacing the battery? Is this something I could so, or do I need to have the Dealer do it? How much can I expect to pay for a new battery and installation?

By the way, this is the first and only time this has happened...always starts right up, Even during the really cold days, I'd start her up and let her run for 5 minutes every couple of days.

 

[billybovine]

I stopped to gas up my 2012 RT-SE5, shut off the bike, turned the key and lifted the seat. Turned the key back to insert position, as always. Filled 'er up, closed the seat...turned the key and NOTHING...blank screen, no self-check, nothing. Kill switch in "on" position, trans. in N. NOTHING! Couldn't even pop off the e-brake or open the frunk. A guy offered to give me a jump, and surprisingly, that WORKED! Screen came on, went thru self-check and started as though everything was okay.

I have no way to test the battery, but have had it on a "tender" throughout the winter, connected via the cigar. lighter in the back compartment...always hot. The tender indicates the battery has 80+ % charge (by the little indicator lights). If one of the battery cables is loose, I can easily tighten it up, but don't want to get stranded on a long ride. If I don't find a loose battery cable, should I consider replacing the battery? Is this something I could so, or do I need to have the Dealer do it? How much can I expect to pay for a new battery and installation?

By the way, this is the first and only time this has happened...always starts right up, Even during the really cold days, I'd start her up and let her run for 5 minutes every couple of days.

By your description I would look at a loose or corroded battery connection first. Also make sure the negative jumper post under the seat is tight.

A battery can suddenly go bad, but it suddenly does not get better. If you think the battery is getting weak. Sure get a new one, but it will not fix the trouble you are having.

 

[ARtraveler]

I stopped to gas up my 2012 RT-SE5, shut off the bike, turned the key and lifted the seat. Turned the key back to insert position, as always. Filled 'er up, closed the seat...turned the key and NOTHING...blank screen, no self-check, nothing. Kill switch in "on" position, trans. in N. NOTHING! Couldn't even pop off the e-brake or open the frunk. A guy offered to give me a jump, and surprisingly, that WORKED! Screen came on, went thru self-check and started as though everything was okay.

I have no way to test the battery, but have had it on a "tender" throughout the winter, connected via the cigar. lighter in the back compartment...always hot. The tender indicates the battery has 80+ % charge (by the little indicator lights). If one of the battery cables is loose, I can easily tighten it up, but don't want to get stranded on a long ride. If I don't find a loose battery cable, should I consider replacing the battery? Is this something I could so, or do I need to have the Dealer do it? How much can I expect to pay for a new battery and installation?

By the way, this is the first and only time this has happened...always starts right up, Even during the really cold days, I'd start her up and let her run for 5 minutes every couple of days.

Running the machine for 5 minutes every couple days could cause some problems for the :ani29:. Five minutes does not get the engine fully warmed up. You need about a half hour of road running for that. The battery is also not going to charge in five minutes time. You are likely depleting the battery and going to end up with a dead one soon. :thumbup:

 

[solidgranite]

Good Advice!

By your description I would look at a loose or corroded battery connection first. Also make sure the negative jumper post under the seat is tight.

A battery can suddenly go bad, but it suddenly does not get better. If you think the battery is getting weak. Sure get a new one, but it will not fix the trouble you are having.

That's good advice. Thanks! I borrowed a multi-meter and checked the voltage. It read 12, so it appears that the battery is okay. Hopefully its a loose connection of either the positive or negative battery connection cables, or maybe a corroded connector. I sure hope so because that's something I can fix. If its something more complicated, like loose or bad connections in the ignition module, its way out of my league. I'm hoping for the simple and direct fix. Thanks again...

 

[solidgranite]

I'll Be Stopping That!

[/B]Running the machine for 5 minutes every couple days could cause some problems for the :ani29:. Five minutes does not get the engine fully warmed up. You need about a half hour of road running for that. The battery is also not going to charge in five minutes time. You are likely depleting the battery and going to end up with a dead one soon. :thumbup:

YOW! I thought starting and running her every couple of days would be a good thing, especially on those days when I can't actually ride her (ice and snow, etc.). But if its causing harm, I'll stop doing that immediately. And I sure don't want to have to replace the battery because I did something stupid...LOL Thanks for the advice!

 

[billybovine]

That's good advice. Thanks! I borrowed a multi-meter and checked the voltage. It read 12, so it appears that the battery is okay. Hopefully its a loose connection of either the positive or negative battery connection cables, or maybe a corroded connector. I sure hope so because that's something I can fix. If its something more complicated, like loose or bad connections in the ignition module, its way out of my league. I'm hoping for the simple and direct fix. Thanks again...

.

At 12V that's less than 50% charge. You need to get it to 12.6 or higher.

Also running the engine for short periods in the winter will put a lot of water into the engine oil. There it chemically reacts with the other byproducts of combustion to make acid.

 

[Bob Denman]

If that is the original battery: do yourself a favor, and buy your RT a new one!
It's already done it's bit for "King & County"...Retire it!