Rear Tire Options

[bjt]

Not sure what kinda miles lamonster has on his Kumho or what psi he runs at but it looks like its wearing very similar to ours. The stock Kenda I had on was very close to the wear bars by 10,000 miles, especially in the center of the tread. I probably could have gotten a lot longer life out of the Kenda if I would have ridden it at 20 or 22 psi for a while to even out the treadwear but I don't like the feel of the ride (sidewall roll) with the lower psi. Thats why I run my Kumho up towards the max recommended pressure.

 

[Firefly]

Yup - center wears sooner. The center of my Kenda was bald at 8,000 miles. Running the pressure a bit lower on this new one.

 

[Lamonster]

As far as guessing air pressure is concerned I found that the recommend air pressure on the oem tires are a little low. I run 20psi in the front and 30psi in the rear.

On the Kumho tire I run anywhere from 32psi to 40psi and it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

With over 35,000 miles on my tires it's more about not having to change a tire in the middle of a trip or changing it before it really needs it because I don't want to change in the middle of a trip. I'll be heading to Sturgis soon and I'll be running this tire and I'm pretty sure I'll make it there and back without needing a new tire. If this was the oem I would be changing it out when I had a good 3K left on it.

 

[Lamonster]

Not sure what kinda miles lamonster has on his Kumho or what psi he runs at but it looks like its wearing very similar to ours.

10K+
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=117757&postcount=16

 

[Questions]

(including the Kumho). Gotta love that name though. :roflblack:

Firefly that is hillarious:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[BajaRon]

I don't know about that Falken tire. At the very least, it would look a little funny on the back of the Spyder as it doesn't have a symmetrical tread design. I don't really know if not having a symmetrical tread pattern would affect the handling at all, probably not with this tire as its close to symmetrical. Not radically different like http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Parada Spec-2 or this http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta XS.

Researching this, I have found directional tread design works better in wet conditions (shedding water) than symmetrical tread. The negatives of a directional tread are a small reduction in dry traction, more noise and sometimes, uneven tread wear (usually in the middle of the tire).

It is obvious that BRP wanted to provide the best wet traction (anti-hydroplaning) tire they could. And for good reason. There just isn't much weight on the rear to keep the tire on the pavement in wet conditions.

I have noticed that I hydroplane sooner than Lamont does when he is pulling the trailer. Lamont is a little heavier than I am but I think it is the tongue weight of his trailer that makes the difference. This is when we were both running the stock OEM tire.

For example, I got sideways on a curve in the rain at the same speed Lamont was traveling. I had to get off the gas while Lamont continued on, unaffected.

The OEM tire does a reasonably good job of keeping the rear tire on the pavement in wet weather. But there are alternatives out there that cost less and may give us better service.

The tire Lamont is running is one good example. I don't think tire pressures are all that critical on something as light as the Spyder.

The car tire equivalents I have been looking at have load ratings close to 1400 lbs. I have not put a scale under the rear tire but I would guess it might be in the neighborhood of 300 lbs (depending somewhat on the weight of the rider). Lamnt's car tire would be carrying about 20% of it's rated load capacity. Even adding a trailer would only get loading to 25~30% of capacity.

The OEM tire construction is quite a bit different than a car tire. Load rating is just under 700 lbs as compared to the 1300+ of the same size car tire. This probably has a lot to do with the center wearing quickly on the OEM tire and more even tire wear on the car version.

A very light duty, wide tire (like our OEM) will tend to bulge in the center at speed because it has less foundation to keep it flat. Many of the car tires I looked at were designed specifically to resist this tendency to bulge in the middle, giving a better footprint and better wear at speed.

Think about it. Why does the OEM tire wear so quickly in the center? It's because at 70 mph that's the only part of the tire in contact with the pavement.

It does follow that a car tire, being a stiffer design, would give a somewhat harsher ride. But I have not heard any complaints of this from those running car tires.

Lamont and others are getting great rear tire service at less than 1/2 the price. Sounds good to me.

 

[BajaRon]

With the Kumho,

On tirerack, they say that wet traction is not that good...although dry pavement looks great (A,A rating for temp and traction).

The overall rating is in the 6s..I didn't see other options there so there's nothing really to compare it to.

How would the stock tire compare to the Kumho?

I'm not too worried about dry road traction as this should be fine for any higher speed rated tire...the issue for me would be wet/damp/slick conditions...

I know many here know a ton more than me about tires, but is this a viable option?

http://www.vulcantire.com/cgi-bin/tiresearch.cgi?stock=804&f=ze912_t.htm&refad=Froogle804

The Falken ZIEX ZE-912 is an alternative because it comes in the correct size. But every review I've read on this tire gives it very poor wet performance ratings, as you stated. For that reason it is not a tire I would run on the Spyder.

If you search by size on Tire Rack (225 50 15), you'll find a number of alternatives. Some are very bad in wet conditions, though, and I would eliminate them as possibilities.

I have not been able to find any ratings or reviews on the OEM Kenda tire. This is not surprising as it is basically a Spyder specific tire.

 

[czdaryle]

did a search and didn't find anything in the how to, but how hard is it to take the wheel of and the put the tension back on the belt. Can you get away with just using that tool from NAPA? What about the bearings, is that easy to change? Thanks

 

[ElkSpyder]

did a search and didn't find anything in the how to, but how hard is it to take the wheel of and the put the tension back on the belt. Can you get away with just using that tool from NAPA? What about the bearings, is that easy to change? Thanks

I just asked my dealer about the cost the change the rear tire and was quoted $260.00. :gaah: That sounds like 2.5 hours of labor. When I was a kid working summers in a motor coach garage we could change all 6 tires in less time than that. How hard is it to change this tire?

 

[DragonSpyder]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.

 

[NancysToy]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.

:agree: These lightweight carcasses may make for a lighter weight tire, but they allow distortion from speed, especially on a wide tire. My suspicion is that a good, speed-rated, belted auto tire will wear much more evenly at speed.
-Scotty

 

[BajaRon]

In 11,000 miles I have now gone through 2 rear tires. The centers wear out and the outside is almost like new. I don't think pressure matters as the center of the tire balloons at speed. Anyone that rides at high speeds alot and does not haul a trailer or passenger is going to wear out the centers. Those folks that are getting more miles riding without a passenger are most likely cruising around town. I do not spin the rear tire on purpose but hit 100MPH often which is why I think it wears out so quickly. I have run anywhere from 20Lbs to 30Lbs without a difference in the wear.

I'd say you are a prime candidate for a car tire. They put additional strength in the center of the tire specifically to reduce the balloon effect we are experiencing on our very light duty tires.

This keeps the full tred width in contact with the pavement. Not only will that help the tire last longer but it can't hurt traction either.

 

[BajaRon]

:agree: These lightweight carcasses may make for a lighter weight tire, but they allow distortion from speed, especially on a wide tire. My suspicion is that a good, speed-rated, belted auto tire will wear much more evenly at speed.
-Scotty

:agree: 100%. And I'm about to give this theory a try. I finally decided to get the Toyo Proxes T1R tire. I like the tread design (not a logical approach but you have to look cool). All the reviews are very good both wet and dry.

I think Lamont and others have already made a good case having gone through at least 2 stock tires and now running a car tire. They are still getting good traction, wet or dry, and it appears tread wear is going to be much better. We still don't know for sure because I don't think anyone has yet worn out a car tire.

But if anyone can wear out a car tire it will be Lamont. And at less than 1/2 the price of an OEM tire, that's not bad.

The Toyo T1R is closer to the cost of an OEM tire. I only saved about $50. Still, If I get more than the 13000 miles that my stock tire ran that will increase the savings.

 

[bjt]

It does look cool. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Toyo/T1R.htm

 

[BajaRon]

It does look cool. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Toyo/T1R.htm

Secretly, I'm hoping this tire has more "COOL" than Lamont's Kuhmo hyea:...It is very rare that I can out COOL Lamont. But I'm always trying!

He's a natural, I've got to work at it.

 

[krb1945]

Will 175/65

Will 175/65 14 fit the front without cutting or modifying the fenders or mounts?

You may want to look at the Michilin for a rear. Excellent in the wet. I've run them on everything for years.

I learned several years ago to avoid the yoko because no matter which one I got it would have a hydroplaning problem in these FL thunderstorms. I don't have that problem with the MXV4 or any other do-boy tire. And they have 225/60/15 it is just a little taller but now much.

 

[bjt]

Secretly, I'm hoping this tire has more "COOL" than Lamont's Kuhmo hyea:...It is very rare that I can out COOL Lamont. But I'm always trying!

He's a natural, I've got to work at it.

:lecturef_smilie: You'll never out cool him if you keep getting your cool parts sent to his place so he can get his cool vibe built up off of them.

 

[OZBITS1]

G"day I don't want to up set the apple cart but" I have been told if I do not run the standard tyres which are rated as motorcycle tyres for some reason, that I may void any insurance claim in the event of a crash. Yet the car rated tyres sound a better option.
Regards Darren

 

[mjw930]

While I'm a firm believer that MC tires belong on MC's and car tires belong on cars BUT, since the Spyder basically uses a modified car tire provided by the lowest bidder I think the conversion to another tire is almost a no brainer. Too bad there isn't a compatible front (yet).

There are 2 tires that I haven't seen in these discussions that I think are perfect for the Spyder:

The Hankook Ventus R-S2 @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...5WR5Z212&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

and the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...5VR5GFSP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

I've used the g-Force sport on a GTi and it's a great all season tire with a relatively soft sidewall that I think would work great on the Spyder. I have a friend who has run the R-S2 on an S2000 and a Mini Cooper S and has nothing but good things to say about it. For an overall wet and dry performer I think the g-Force is the way to go.

 

[dltang]

While I'm a firm believer that MC tires belong on MC's and car tires belong on cars BUT, since the Spyder basically uses a modified car tire provided by the lowest bidder I think the conversion to another tire is almost a no brainer. Too bad there isn't a compatible front (yet).

There are 2 tires that I haven't seen in these discussions that I think are perfect for the Spyder:

The Hankook Ventus R-S2 @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...5WR5Z212&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

and the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport @ $99

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...5VR5GFSP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

I've used the g-Force sport on a GTi and it's a great all season tire with a relatively soft sidewall that I think would work great on the Spyder. I have a friend who has run the R-S2 on an S2000 and a Mini Cooper S and has nothing but good things to say about it. For an overall wet and dry performer I think the g-Force is the way to go.

I have been looking at the BF Goodrich myself for the next rear but I have to tell you, I am getting more miles out of the Kumho I have on there now than I did on the stock and it is less than half the price.