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First oil Change

Fadooz

New member
Good day today, took my F3S in for its first oil change. Was pleased that my dealer had the BajaRon Swaybar in stock so I went for it too. The oil change seems to have quieted the clunky sound when shifting and the Swaybar feels great. All in all a very good day, ready for a great summer.
 
Oh no..!!

You've been farkled...:roflblack: oil change was okay but the swaybar...:banghead: but it does make the handling way more better...:thumbup:
 
Changed my own oil today at just under 1700 miles. 3000 just seemed too far on this engine for the first oil change. I put in Amsoil and an oil filter from Baja Ron.

We will do a 200+ mile ride tomorrow and Probably close to 1000 miles next week up at lake George so I will see if I feel a difference in shifting with the Amsoil.
 
If you guys have the SE6, did you change the transmission oil and filter as well?
I don't believe the tran oil was changed but I will tell you that it is shifting a little smoother and quieter. Whether they added oil or changed a filter honestly not sure.
 
Trans oil is the same as engine oil in spyders, the oil lubricates both. I think the trans filter on the 1330 is to be changed at 28,000 miles.
 
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I thought the engine oil was involved with the transmission but wanted to double check. Great news on not needing to change the transmission filter!

Thanks for the info ☺
 
Changed oil.....

this past Saturday on my 2015 F3-S/SM-5. Having prior experience with a '14 RTL, this was a breeze!!! Some here had said that the brake fluid reservoir needed to be moved out of the way in order to get the oil filter cap/oil filter removed. I did not find that to be the case. I did remove the side panel to make the job much easier.

So, started by removing the clutch side drain plug. Then loosened the dip stick and finally loosened the oil filter cap using a 36MM socket on a long handle 1/2 drive ratchet and allowed things to drain while I went and changed into my working duds. When I got back (5 mins) I slowly pulled up on the oil cap while moving some wires and got it clear of the filter. Small end first I wiggled/twisted it toward the rear and down til it cleared the frame tube and out it came. Did the same with the filter. Reversed the procedure for installing the new filter and replacing the oil cap. Did not change any of the "O" rings on the cap. Replaced the 6MM allen drain plug with a Gold Plug with hex head.

Next, moved over to the crankcase side and removed the drain plug with a T-45 Torx bit. Allowed that side to drain completely. Replaced the T-45 plug with a Gold Plug with hex head and new "O" rings. Slowly poured 5 Qts of Amsoil 10W-40 down the dip stick hole and put the dip stick back in. Rechecked the torque on both drain plugs---I used 23 Newtons for both plugs. Fired her up and checked for leaks--found none. Buttoned everything back up---changed into riding gear and off we went. Strangely enough I noticed that the trike felt smoother, less clunking noise when shifting and the engine sounded a bit quieter. All-in-all a good days work that only took me 1 hour and 35 minutes!!! I was blown away at just how easy this was.

The odometer showed 3200 miles for this first oil change. The next one will be 5000 miles down the road or end of season---whichever comes first. I will change all "O" rings at the next oil service.
 
Just as an FYI, its not necessary to remove any body panels on an F3 to do an oil change other than the small cover up top to get to the dip stick.
 
I suspect....

Just as an FYI, its not necessary to remove any body panels on an F3 to do an oil change other than the small cover up top to get to the dip stick.

that to be true. However, it sure made things a lot easier for me to see and get my hands on. So I will be taking off the side panel from now on. It is only 4 screws and 3 plastic plugs anyway.

Thanks,
 
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