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Synthetic blend vs full synthetic

lilwill

New member
I read in my manual it calls for a synthetic blend oil. Is anyone running full synthetic if so does the motor run better / cooler


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Ah Yes.....

Oils....one of the top three topics...Gas, Tires, oil and you will get more opinions than Pontiac sold GTO's...:roflblack: The oils of today (name brands) are all comperable and each have a following. I for one like the synthetic blends but fall in a minority. I have never had any oil issue with them and they have saved my butt in more than one occasion. But full synthetic is the way to go for some types of ryding....:thumbup:
 
Oil search

Since oil is too small a word for the search function on here you need to do a search for the brand of oil (amsoil, castrol, mobil) you might be using or just do a search with the word synthetic. I'm sure you will find enough reading to keep you up at night.:yes::yes::yes::yes::bdh::bdh:
 
With this question you will receive opinions, unless you can find a Tribologist. My opinion is to go with full synthetic, but that's just my opinion, not necessarily based on facts.
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This has to be the true 'Never Ending Story'. It's hard to come up with an opinion that someone won't try to shoot holes in.

But in a nutshell. Let me attempt this. For the most part, fully synthetic oils are better in every respect when compared to standard or blended oils. After all, the reason they put a 10% full synthetic oil into standard oils (making them a blend) is for the sole purpose of improving the characteristics of the original lubricant.

I think the real question that has never really been full answered is. Does your engine NEED the superior properties of a fully synthetic lubricant? And there-in lies (I think) the seeds of debate.

Now please give me a moment while I don my proximity suit!

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Guess you didn't read all the way thru!

Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH.
BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600
121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
or synthetic motorcycle oil
meeting the requirements for API service
SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification.
Always check the API service
label on the oil container.

AJ
I read in my manual it calls for a synthetic blend oil. Is anyone running full synthetic if so does the motor run better / cooler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I read in my manual it calls for a synthetic blend oil. Is anyone running full synthetic if so does the motor run better / cooler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Full synthetic for me, Amsoil 10-40. I do not know what the benefit is to a blend other than a slightly lower price

mark
 
PRICE POINT

Full synthetic for me, Amsoil 10-40. I do not know what the benefit is to a blend other than a slightly lower price

mark
Hi Mark.......I have bought quite a bit of Valvo-line 10/40 & 20/50 full syn ...." 4 Stroke -motorcycle oil " ( silver containers ) for as little as $6.35 per qt. at Walmart..........and this stuff has the second LOWEST amount of Moly in it..( bad for wet clutches )...............only Amsoil has slightly less.........................Mike :2excited:
 
I prefer canola: it makes my French fries taste better... :roflblack:
ANY oil will protect your engine just fine; don't sweat the small stuff!

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I've ran both,
1st oil change BRP's blended
2nd oil change BRP's XPS Full Syn
3rd oil change BRP's blended again
4th oil change (last one) Amsoil 10/40 Full Syn

My opinion BRP's blended ran better that the XPS, quieter shifting and the Amsoil seems to run the best and that's what I'll be "sticking" with! :roflblack:
 
my belief is that your engine will last just as long with the blend oil as it will with full synthetic.But you will have better protection from the synthetic if you overheated your engine
 
I am running Valvoline Full Synthetic 10W-40 ( 4T Stroke) motorcycle oil, Superior Wet Clutch Protection. ( 5 quarts)

My spyder runs fine, with the Full Synthetic.

Deanna
 
I've ran both,
1st oil change BRP's blended
2nd oil change BRP's XPS Full Syn
3rd oil change BRP's blended again
4th oil change (last one) Amsoil 10/40 Full Syn

My opinion BRP's blended ran better that the XPS, quieter shifting and the Amsoil seems to run the best and that's what I'll be "sticking" with! :roflblack:

This is a common thing from everyone I hear that has run Amsoil is the shifting on the SE models is a lot smoother. I am an Amsoil fan and was just about to put it in my ST for the first time and then I traded it. So I will have it put in my F3 at my first service.
 
This has to be the true 'Never Ending Story'. It's hard to come up with an opinion that someone won't try to shoot holes in.

But in a nutshell. Let me attempt this. For the most part, fully synthetic oils are better in every respect when compared to standard or blended oils. After all, the reason they put a 10% full synthetic oil into standard oils (making them a blend) is for the sole purpose of improving the characteristics of the original lubricant.

I think the real question that has never really been full answered is. Does your engine NEED the superior properties of a fully synthetic lubricant? And there-in lies (I think) the seeds of debate.

Now please give me a moment while I don my proximity suit!



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Is this oil ok to use?..These classifications are confusing,especially when XPS don't put any on their bottle..I have a 2012 RTL..
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Finished my first oil change, the bike has 1700 miles on it. ( it was killing me trying to wait till 3k for first oil change) . It was rather simple and straightforward. I went with amsoil 10-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil and BRP filter. Only found a few metal shavings
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SHAVINGS

WOW :yikes:.....I have the same engine and changed the oil early also.........................but didn't have any shavings on the plug, some very small metal particles........but nothing that large ............................Mike :thumbup:
 
Finished my first oil change, the bike has 1700 miles on it. ( it was killing me trying to wait till 3k for first oil change) . It was rather simple and straightforward. I went with amsoil 10-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil and BRP filter. Only found a few metal shavings
2f48b26bb864c0a8c725d655febe30b0.jpg



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I don't want to be a kill-joy. But that amount and size of material would rate as 'seriously concerning' on my worry scale. Your magnet will only pick up ferrous materials, and not 100% of them. The Spyder engine has a great deal of non-ferrous parts that won't show up on a magnet at all. Did you inspect your filters for debris?

It is possible that these are simply leftovers from the machining/assembly process. But modern engines aren't supposed to be left with that much junk inside. I would consider doing another early oil change just to be sure there isn't any additional 'Stuff' accumulating on the magnet. I would also highly recommend inspecting the reservoir screen.
 
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Rotella?

I don't believe I've ever seen Rotella diesel engine oil mentioned on Spyderlovers. I've heard from several others with a wide mix of bikes, quads, trucks, cars, etc. that used Rotella diesel engine oil in all of their motorized vehicles and were very pleased. I've never used it and don't know anything about it; what opinions or experiences are there by you fellow Spyder riders?

Rob
 
Finished my first oil change, the bike has 1700 miles on it. ( it was killing me trying to wait till 3k for first oil change) . It was rather simple and straightforward. I went with amsoil 10-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil and BRP filter. Only found a few metal shavings
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WOW---I'd be anticipating a short engine life with those size of shavings---U sure ur paper clip box didn't fall into the oil filler opening? Houston--I see a problem developing--I would take those photo's to the dealer & document the metal filings occurred prior to your own initiated oil change---if the mnfg can find a way out of warranty--they might blame the problem on your own oil change..
 
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