Front trunk issues

[PatrickBobb]

Have had my 2010 RT for about a month, enjoying it a lot, but today all of a sudden it wouldn't latch shut. The last time I opened it I used the solenoid, so I turned off the power to see if the solenoid would release, but to no avail. Then I tried using the manual operation to see if that might unstick anything, still nothing.

I have been reading these forums for a few wekks and learn a lot. So what could the problem possibly be????

 

[spyderCodes]

Generally a good push in the center of the hood while someone else uses the key lock to open will do the trick.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FRUNK ISSUE

Generally a good push in the center of the hood while someone else uses the key lock to open will do the trick.

:welcome:.......Front Trunk = FRUNK ......and :agree: .......also the Solenoid needs electricity to work........I have my FRUNK on a separate release cable and ONLY use that to open the Frunk........I don't think the KEY should do anything other than START the Spyder....JMHO.....Mike :bbq:

 

[Chupaca]

Not sure...

Seems there was a sensor lever that sometimes get bent and this will not allow the latch to return, in other words latch. It had to be adusted just right. :dontknow:

 

[garb55]

Check that the frunk gasket is installed correctly
It sometimes will come loose
Also make sure the latch is in the open position if it is already closed the frunk will not latch

 

[Bfromla]

Generally a good push in the center of the hood while someone else uses the key lock to open will do the trick.

:agree: But with that said what all did you have in frunk, did you have any trouble closing it? The gasket can fail or get pulled in odd positions possibly even blocking the latch:yikes:, hope you can get with out a dealer help but:lecturef_smilie: 2010 latch is missing some of the newer latch operations that may need updating:dontknow: Hope all turn out well:thumbup: Also

 

[Bob Denman]

"Check that the frunk gasket is installed correctly
It sometimes will come loose"


:agree: First; make sure that the gasket around the top edge is properly seated...
If it is: move on to the tougher points of interest! :shocked:

Good Luck; please let us know what happens next! :thumbup:

 

[PatrickBobb]

Still having issues...

I turned the bike off to see if the solenoid was a "fail shut on loss of electricity" kind of solenoid.

The gasket is installed correctly, nothing wrong, or any damage to it, at all.

The little micro-switch is properly aligned and the actuating arm on the lid does make correct contact with the switch and fully engages the switch, because I can hear it clicking as I lower the lid.

I tried to rotate the latch by hand and it moves, it just doesn't catch to the locked position.

I am going to try and remove the panels and see what I can see and possibly do from there.

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Maybe the latch or the "pin" on the lid is loose? Maybe a sticking cable? Lid not getting fully closed?, Hinges get tweaked? Let us know what ya find.

 

[Jolvyc]

Pictures

:welcome:.......Front Trunk = FRUNK ......and :agree: .......also the Solenoid needs electricity to work........I have my FRUNK on a separate release cable and ONLY use that to open the Frunk........I don't think the KEY should do anything other than START the Spyder....JMHO.....Mike :bbq:

Do you have pictures on how you did your release cable?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

RELEASE CABLE

Do you have pictures on how you did your release cable?

No......because I removed the entire plastic AIR INTAKE, so I routed my release cable down to the front vent. You can do yours easily by going over the AIR INTAKE on the left side. You first need to attach the cable ( at Home Depot plastic covered flexible wire ) to the release ARM at the latch......In order to drill the hole , un-bolt ( two bolts ) and take off latch drill it , attach cable put it over AIR INTAKE ......I put a small piece of wood on that end and glued a piece of VELCRO on it........I put the other piece of VELCRO where you couldn't see it ( for you - under the fender )...............PS, the cable is the way I ALWAYS open my frunk......if the Key BREAKS in the ignition it's a $ 400.00 + dealer fix........................good luck.......Mike :bbq:

 

[Commander]

I had both the key release and the Solenoid on my 2013 RTL. Bur on my 2015 RTL they did away with the Solenoid and just went with the key release.