These topics on alignment are getting to be as good as oil topics and tire topics.
As Jack stated...do not over think it and get it properly aligned.
Anyone that thinks a Spyder steering geometry is closely resembling a performance design or even a good design needs to be drug tested.
The design is not at all like any car. A car modern car with IFS could never be sold with a design like the Spyders. If you have a look, notice haw far inboard the tie rod ends are. There are no idler arms, or a long steering rack to properly position the inboard tie rod end to minimize bump steer.
Sadly, bump steer happens 100% of the time as you ride. Even going straight. One spec for every rider will not give a perfect alignment, but it sure is close enough. Make a corner and the vehicle leans, the steering bellcrank adds Ackerman Effect. Regardless, none of it is ideal.
Add fuel, add or remove luggage, change rider weight, the toe setting is changed.
Accelerate and the wheels toe in, hit the brakes they toe out. Hit a bump and one wheel toes out.
The front wheels are wagging like a dogs tail.
Can Am has provided a toe chart and there are certain baseline settings. One is proper ride height measured at a certain point. Second is, the toe is set to a parameter based on the vehicles load.
Is the laser setup more accurate, done correctly it better be. You are projecting the a long ways in front of the vehicle making it easy to see small increments. Can you obtain adequate results measuring with toe sticks at the tires, yes.
Regardless of the method, ideally, with the vehicle loaded, the toe should be 0 according to Can Am. Sadly, this may be less than ideal if you ride a lot of curves where body lean will create toe out and make the vehicle more unpredictable.
Take it to someone that does alignments, has experience, and stands by their work.
PK
