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Unbelievable brakes!!

Bluehole

New member
Just finished up my brake job on my 2014 RTL----first a big word of THANKS to Ron @ BajaRon's & Joe @ Squared Away. These gentlemen supplied me with the courage and wisdom to take on this job. Ron, as well, supplied all the parts needed for the job.

A couple of pics:
attachment.php
attachment.php
first pic shows all parts replaced--both front rotors & all brake pads. Second pic shows how mush material the pads had left with 19500 miles on them. Bottom set of pads came off the rear. The thin pad was on the inside of the caliper. Top set of pads is from the front and is typical of the wear on both sides. Plenty left as can be seen. Replaced the rotors to stop a pulsating in the pedal at low speed. Am happy to say that was accomplished.

I started this process yesterday (Sat) with the 2 front wheels. It was way too easy. Jack up one side/remove wheel/remove caliper/replace rotor/remove some brake fluid/push pistons in/install pads (remember to install shim from old pads)/install caliper (torque 50 #)/install wheel (torque 75 #)/fill rear reservoir to proper level/put cap on/pump brakes to take up play. Rinse and recycle---do other side/refill reservoir.

Today (Sun) I tackled the rear brake. I took everything apart---removed the muffler/removed the parking brake cable & arm/removed the cable bracket & spring/remove some brake fluid from front reservoir---all of this just to get started. I was looking for a spacer as I removed the 2 16mm bolts that hold the caliper on. I found one in the rear hole. Once caliper is out---remove small "C" clip and unscrew & remove roll pin that hold the pads in alignment/push pads to center and remove/install new pads with shim from old pads/install roll pin and tighten/install caliper with shim--this was a very tight fit as the EBC pads are a bit thicker/ (torque 77 #)/replace all the extra parts I removed. I adjusted the parking brake out as far as I could in an effort to lessen any possible drag on the system. This was based on the inside pad being worn as shown in the above picture.

First run--followed Ron's recommendation of feathering the pedal frequently for about 35 hits of the pedal. Noticed that the brakes felt stronger after about the 10-12th hit. Kept using the brakes progressively a bit harder. I am here to tell you---full on power stop will send you over the handle bars if you are not ready for it!! These things are amazing & just a bit scary until you get used to them.

I have no more pulsating and I got some crazy good brakes to boot!!! All is right with the world. Thanks for all the posts on this job & again, thanks to Ron & Joe.
 

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:congrats: on the addition of a VERY important farkle! :thumbup:
Since I also have a 2014 RT-L; exactly what did your shopping list look like?
Having the part numbers in front of me, makes me feel better! ;)
 
Sweet!

New brakes rock!!! Once you do it, it removes all the mystery, and then, on the schedule in the manual, check the pad thickness. Nice job, and superb write-up! Joe
 
Shopping List

:congrats: on the addition of a VERY important farkle! :thumbup:
Since I also have a 2014 RT-L; exactly what did your shopping list look like?
Having the part numbers in front of me, makes me feel better! ;)

Bob,

My order to Ron below---the K&N air filter will go in this coming week. No part #'s---just
tell Ron what you want.


Full Sintered Brake Pads full set (front & rear) $103.85
2013-2015 Brake Rotor---FRONT Two (2) $208.00
K&N Air Filter for 1330 Ace Motor One (1) $ 46.95
$358.80
 
Just finished up my brake job on my 2014 RTL----first a big word of THANKS to Ron @ BajaRon's & Joe @ Squared Away. These gentlemen supplied me with the courage and wisdom to take on this job. Ron, as well, supplied all the parts needed for the job.

A couple of pics:
attachment.php
attachment.php
first pic shows all parts replaced--both front rotors & all brake pads. Second pic shows how mush material the pads had left with 19500 miles on them. Bottom set of pads came off the rear. The thin pad was on the inside of the caliper. Top set of pads is from the front and is typical of the wear on both sides. Plenty left as can be seen. Replaced the rotors to stop a pulsating in the pedal at low speed. Am happy to say that was accomplished.

I started this process yesterday (Sat) with the 2 front wheels. It was way too easy. Jack up one side/remove wheel/remove caliper/replace rotor/remove some brake fluid/push pistons in/install pads (remember to install shim from old pads)/install caliper (torque 50 #)/install wheel (torque 75 #)/fill rear reservoir to proper level/put cap on/pump brakes to take up play. Rinse and recycle---do other side/refill reservoir.

Today (Sun) I tackled the rear brake. I took everything apart---removed the muffler/removed the parking brake cable & arm/removed the cable bracket & spring/remove some brake fluid from front reservoir---all of this just to get started. I was looking for a spacer as I removed the 2 16mm bolts that hold the caliper on. I found one in the rear hole. Once caliper is out---remove small "C" clip and unscrew & remove roll pin that hold the pads in alignment/push pads to center and remove/install new pads with shim from old pads/install roll pin and tighten/install caliper with shim--this was a very tight fit as the EBC pads are a bit thicker/ (torque 77 #)/replace all the extra parts I removed. I adjusted the parking brake out as far as I could in an effort to lessen any possible drag on the system. This was based on the inside pad being worn as shown in the above picture.

First run--followed Ron's recommendation of feathering the pedal frequently for about 35 hits of the pedal. Noticed that the brakes felt stronger after about the 10-12th hit. Kept using the brakes progressively a bit harder. I am here to tell you---full on power stop will send you over the handle bars if you are not ready for it!! These things are amazing & just a bit scary until you get used to them.

I have no more pulsating and I got some crazy good brakes to boot!!! All is right with the world. Thanks for all the posts on this job & again, thanks to Ron & Joe.

It is a great feeling to do your own work. And you get a smile that feels like it will break your face when all your effort results in a great deal of improvement. There isn't anything that will compare.

I am always glad when things work out well for a customer. I get to share a bit of the enthusiasm! Isn't it great when stuff works! :thumbup:
 
Yours is the first post I've read about replacing the brake pads.
There may have been others as a lot of folks have some high
miles on their 14's. Question for you: are you a hard rider that uses the brakes a lot? Reason I ask, I have 20K on mine and wonder how much longer they may be good for.
 
Hard Rider

Yours is the first post I've read about replacing the brake pads.
There may have been others as a lot of folks have some high
miles on their 14's. Question for you: are you a hard rider that uses the brakes a lot? Reason I ask, I have 20K on mine and wonder how much longer they may be good for.

I would say that I am a very easy rider when it comes to the brakes. I live in a area that the posted speed limit never gets above 60 mph and most of the time it is 55 or less. That being said, I usually run around 58 mph. I always set up for the corners by using the transmission to down shift when needed. I leave plenty of following room to down shift as needed instead of using the brakes. In town I also used the trans where I can do it safely.

Seems my biggest problem was the inside pad was dragging against the disk. I would guesstimate maybe another 5K out of the set of pads I removed. You can eyeball yours from the rear of the back caliper---they should be the first to wear out.

Have a great day.
 
Tightening up the screws to #50 and #75 how do you do that? I am new and have my brake pads off at the moment, and the calipers. I want to be sure I put it back together right. Appreciate the help!
 
Trick

I also understand there is a trick for compressing the rear caliper.
Anyone know what this trick is.

Thanks

Take a pair of needle nose pliers and put the points into the holes of the piston. Push and rotate clock wise at the same time. Continue until the piston is all the way back in the caliper. You are ready to install the new pads.
 
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