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RT - Air Pressure?

bobgeorge

New member
Hello,

I'm a new spyder rider...only around 700 miles. On Sunday I put my air pressure at 20lbs in the front and 28lbs in the back. I think that is what is recommended in the manual for stock wheels.

Now my ride seems a little more bouncier than before?

Has anyone else noticed this? What air levels do you keep your RT?

Thanks
 
I've been riding my Spyder for slightly less than 11 months and 10,200 miles keeping the tires at the 20/28 recommendation in the operator's guide. I keep the ACS rear suspension on firmest setting too because I like to "feel" the road and do not find the ride fatiguing. I weigh only 13 stone so I'm by no means stressing the suspension system.
 
Hello,

I'm a new spyder rider...only around 700 miles. On Sunday I put my air pressure at 20lbs in the front and 28lbs in the back. I think that is what is recommended in the manual for stock wheels.

Now my ride seems a little more bouncier than before?

Has anyone else noticed this? What air levels do you keep your RT?

Thanks

I keep mine at 20 and 28 just as the manual says. Your tires will last a lot longer if you keep them exactly at the recommended pressure.

Pam
 
I've been riding my Spyder for slightly less than 11 months and 10,200 miles keeping the tires at the 20/28 recommendation in the operator's guide. I keep the ACS rear suspension on firmest setting too because I like to "feel" the road and do not find the ride fatiguing. I weigh only 13 stone so I'm by no means stressing the suspension system.

I weigh around the same weight. I might try changing the ACS settings on mine and see how the ride feels. Thank you!
 
I've been riding my Spyder for slightly less than 11 months and 10,200 miles keeping the tires at the 20/28 recommendation in the operator's guide. I keep the ACS rear suspension on firmest setting too because I like to "feel" the road and do not find the ride fatiguing. I weigh only 13 stone so I'm by no means stressing the suspension system.

13 stones = 182 pounds :clap:

Pam
 
I run 21 psi up front...
and 25 psi out back...

The 15" front tires need s bit more tire pressure than the old 14" ones... there's less sidewall available for flexing! ;)
 
Ranges....

usually they indicate a range like from 15 to 20 lbs. Both manual and on the swingarm of the roadster. What suits you best will depend on where you ryde, solo or double up and road conditions. On my RS double up I find 17 lbs in front works best and 28 in the rear. The range given is for average weight and best tire wear. If its to bouncy check you shock settings as well as adjusting your tire pressure. Have seen folks running as low as 15 on up to 22. Make sure fronts are at the same pressure both sides...:thumbup:
 
But I always thought that it was like oxygen... :shocked:



But it sure does sound as if Donnie Iris has got one heckuva great Bar song!! :yes::ohyea:
 
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Tire Pressure

[Pampurrs;I keep mine at 20 and 28 just as the manual says. Your tires will last a lot longer if you keep them exactly at the recommended pressure.

I have the same bike and it seems that I have to constantly add air to my tires. I check them before each ride. Is this normal? All of my two wheel motorcycles didn't require as much checking as the Spyder ?

Blade
 
[Pampurrs;I keep mine at 20 and 28 just as the manual says. Your tires will last a lot longer if you keep them exactly at the recommended pressure.

I have the same bike and it seems that I have to constantly add air to my tires. I check them before each ride. Is this normal? All of my two wheel motorcycles didn't require as much checking as the Spyder ?

Blade

All motorcycle tires seep. I've never had a motorcycle (included my Spyder) that didn't. That's why a tire gauge and compressor are essential items in the garage of every motorcycle owner. They need to be checked and aired up every couple of days, and for sure before a long ride.

Pam
 
Hello,I'm a new spyder rider..only around 700 miles.What air levels do you keep your RT?Thanks
First, :welcome: and:congrats:. LUV your color.
Like you, this is my first :spyder2:. I just crossed 1300 miles (400 white knuckle miles was the ride home, so that doen't count.) I just looked under my seat and the info there says:
Fronts: 20 +/- 2 psi
Rear: 28 +/- 2 psi.
1. We ride 2-up 95%
2. I have 1 of DOC Humphries spring stiffeners on each front shock, and a pair on the rear shock.
Coming off 9 years of riding GL1800 trikes, I'm used to 41 psi in the front bias ply tire and 30 psi in the rear radial car tires. Right now I'm running 24 psi in my front Kendas, and 30 psi in the rear. I run my rear suspension in the middle. Going to be taking a 4 day trip where we'll put 800-1000 miles on the odometer.
Hope this helps.
Mike
 
Leaking?

[Pampurrs;I keep mine at 20 and 28 just as the manual says. Your tires will last a lot longer if you keep them exactly at the recommended pressure.

I have the same bike and it seems that I have to constantly add air to my tires. I check them before each ride. Is this normal? All of my two wheel motorcycles didn't require as much checking as the Spyder ?



Blade

Try using the nitrogen available at many places...I usually go to Costco to top mine off. The molecules are larger than O2 and thus don't leak out nearly as quickly. Now, don't fall for all the hype surrounding nitrogen...but, here's the thing, most of these air fill up machines you pay to use, have a great deal of water in their systems and you don't really want that in your tires. The nitrogen is much dryer in addition to the larger molecules.
 
It's generally safe to experiment going up or down a bit from the recommended PSI, because inexpensive tire gauges are only "good enough" -- i.e., not precisely accurate. Good for the job they do.

For example, the tire gauge I keep in my truck shows 33 psi in my truck's tires, but if I use the gauge I normally keep with my Spyder to measure those same tires, it reads 35 psi.

Get a decent gauge (avoid the $1 special in the cup at the cash register) and keep that for your bike. Then go up and down a bit in small (1 or 2 psi) increments, using the recommended settings as your starting point. Then find out what feels best for your bike and use those readings from then on.

Or, you could try to find a no-kidding calibrated gauge, but IMO that's not worth the extra price (and providing you can find one).
 
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