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Will a pre-load after market rear shock replace the need for the air bag?

I just heard back from Geoff at Ikon AU. He advised that they would sell/ship the 3610-1084 RT rear shock to the USA for $567/shipped. That is a nice price! I'm sure Ikon USA wouldn't cover any warranty issues, but they'd likely service them if need be.
Wow… that is a good price, Troop. They are a good, solid unit, just without all the bells and whistles of Elka and Wilbers. Only a soft, medium, and hard setting. I ran mine on medium and found it performed every bit as well as the Wilbur’s I had on my F3... and I spent weeks trying to adjust that just right 😉😆😆

Pete
 
Wow… that is a good price, Troop. They are a good, solid unit, just without all the bells and whistles of Elka and Wilbers. Only a soft, medium, and hard setting. I ran mine on medium and found it performed every bit as well as the Wilbur’s I had on my F3... and I spent weeks trying to adjust that just right 😉😆😆

Pete

Same here with the Ikon's vs the more expensive/easily adjustable jobbies, Pete. (y)

And I've also noticed that most of those who have the more expensive/easily adjustable jobbies, there tends to be a whole lot of playing around to get things basically 'right' in the first few weeks, then once they've got that sorted, they tend to use the adjustability less and less - many to the extent that once they're reasonably happy, they'll never touch the adjust again, except maybe if they're making a big trip/major change that warrants adjusting it now and leaving it set at whatever it gets adjusted to then for quite a while. :rolleyes: So they've effectively paid a premium for the adjustability, then after that first 'new toy' flush of adjusting & getting it set right, they tend to rarely use it/adjust things too often after that! 😖

The number of bikes I've seen with these fairly expensive 'easily adjustable' a/mkt shocks where the adjustment hasn't been changed in years is quite surprising, and I reckon that just like all the 4WD'ers out there with 'all the gear' who rarely ever leave the bitumen, but have all the gear cos they thought they'd use all that gear all the time, but in real life, haven't ever done so; there's also a whole lot of bike riders who've got these fairly expensive all singing all dancing fully adjustable shocks cos they thought they'd use the adjustable feature all the time, but really haven't used it anywhere near enough to truly justify the extra cost over the same shocks with the less readily adjustable features. I believe that many like that would benefit from getting the 'less adjustable' versions, and putting the extra $$ they've saved into other things... :cautious:

So for those considering a/mkt shocks (which I think are a great improvement over the OEM stuff) unless you KNOW that you're going to be constantly changing your shock settings ALL the time cos your needs, ride load, etc changes ALL the time; save your $$ and don't get the more expensive 'fully adjustable' versions; cos it's pretty likely that you won't get your $$ worth out of paying for that all singing all dancing adjustability over the same shock that's more of a 'pick one of these 3 settings, fit, and enjoy' type shocks! And the Ikons really are a great, cost effective alternative to those other more expensive varieties too. (y)

Just Sayin' ;)
 
Curious to know if you go this route. The airbag/valve/air line on my wife's RT has a slow leak, so I have to inflate it every time she rides. I would like to not have to use it if possible. I too am leaning towards Wilbers, as that is what I have upgraded to on my BMW two-wheelers through Ted Porter.
If you have a leak in your system, and have just the RT model than finding that leak should be a easy find with some soap and water! If it's a fitting or hose, that also is an easy fix, if it's the bag well that's a different story! But yes, an aftermarket shock would solve all of your issues for sure, made for your weight and riding style, then tweaked after you installed to fine tune!! Good luck!!
 
Wow… that is a good price, Troop. They are a good, solid unit, just without all the bells and whistles of Elka and Wilbers. Only a soft, medium, and hard setting. I ran mine on medium and found it performed every bit as well as the Wilbur’s I had on my F3... and I spent weeks trying to adjust that just right 😉😆😆

Pete
Thanks Pete. Was the preload collar accessible on the RT ?
 
Yeah, I still have 6 months left on my BEST but I really, really don't trust dealers. This gave me the excuse to upgrade the rear shock to match the Elka fronts and I'm able to do the work. If something 'big' comes up, I'll force myself to visit the dealer.
Let me know how your install goes, and share any tips :)
 
Thanks Pete. Was the preload collar accessible on the RT ?
For the rear, not once you get it in place, Troop. I’m sure there would be some tool that would allow you to adjust the collar in its awkward position, but since I was only ever going to use position 2 (medium), I didn’t bother looking for it.
For the fronts, yes the collar is accessible.
I would probably recommend position 1 (soft), for most riders, as these shocks were initially created up for two-up and a trailer. I thought several times about moving down to a 1, even at my 300lbs, but I was too lazy to take off the side panels etc to get at it. Plus, since I take most corners at over 100mph (I dreamt that once), I needed the additional handling characteristics of position 2. 😆😆😆.

Pete
 
Same here with the Ikon's vs the more expensive/easily adjustable jobbies, Pete. (y)

And I've also noticed that most of those who have the more expensive/easily adjustable jobbies, there tends to be a whole lot of playing around to get things basically 'right' in the first few weeks, then once they've got that sorted, they tend to use the adjustability less and less - many to the extent that once they're reasonably happy, they'll never touch the adjust again, except maybe if they're making a big trip/major change that warrants adjusting it now and leaving it set at whatever it gets adjusted to then for quite a while. :rolleyes: So they've effectively paid a premium for the adjustability, then after that first 'new toy' flush of adjusting & getting it set right, they tend to rarely use it/adjust things too often after that! 😖

The number of bikes I've seen with these fairly expensive 'easily adjustable' a/mkt shocks where the adjustment hasn't been changed in years is quite surprising, and I reckon that just like all the 4WD'ers out there with 'all the gear' who rarely ever leave the bitumen, but have all the gear cos they thought they'd use all that gear all the time, but in real life, haven't ever done so; there's also a whole lot of bike riders who've got these fairly expensive all singing all dancing fully adjustable shocks cos they thought they'd use the adjustable feature all the time, but really haven't used it anywhere near enough to truly justify the extra cost over the same shocks with the less readily adjustable features. I believe that many like that would benefit from getting the 'less adjustable' versions, and putting the extra $$ they've saved into other things... :cautious:

So for those considering a/mkt shocks (which I think are a great improvement over the OEM stuff) unless you KNOW that you're going to be constantly changing your shock settings ALL the time cos your needs, ride load, etc changes ALL the time; save your $$ and don't get the more expensive 'fully adjustable' versions; cos it's pretty likely that you won't get your $$ worth out of paying for that all singing all dancing adjustability over the same shock that's more of a 'pick one of these 3 settings, fit, and enjoy' type shocks! And the Ikons really are a great, cost effective alternative to those other more expensive varieties too. (y)

Just Sayin' ;)
I would have bought Ikon but when I contacted Roger in Bedford a couple of years ago (Feb. of 23) there were no shocks available for the F3 at the time, thus I went for the more expensive Wilbers. I saw the history of Elkas and M2's that were having all sorts of problems with leaks at the time and didn't want to have anything to do with them; and in the case of the M2's, I am really glad I didn't go that direction, as we all know what happened there.
 
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I replaced the shock last night and all is well in the universe. I'm not gonna fix the bag - pointless.
As for tips, there's 2 ways to get to the top bolt on the RT.
The best and easiest option is to have a lift that lets you get fully underneath to reach up to the upper bolt.

Option 2 (mine) was to remove all the side panels on one or both sides to get clear access to the top bolt. You may want to drop the muffler for a cleaner look.

Once you're ready to pull the bolts you need to position the swingarm just enough to relieve the pressure on the bolts. The bolts will slide out easily and the replacement shock was a direct match so no change in swingarm pressure was a plus.

Thanks to all that helped with the decision!
 
@RayBJ - Dang!

I just had all my left side panels off this past week to install the Lamonster belt dampener. Never even thought to check access to the top shock bolt. Did you remove one side only, or both? Looks like it'd be a PIA to access the top shock bolt from underneath, even with a lift :(
 
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Sadly, both. I tried just the left panels but couldn't contort enough to get to the blind nut. As much as it sucks to do a full strip, it makes working the tail dirt easy. The hardest part is taking the right long panel off without removing the brake pedal. Hint: the higher off the ground you get it the better to manipulate around the pedal.
One more point: the Service manual says you don't have to remove the front painted quarter panel. Good luck with that! The two tabs that bolt that panel to the long panel sit over top and if you don't at least 'pop' the front enough to clear the long panel, you may break a tab trying to clear things up front.
 
Wow… that is a good price, Troop. They are a good, solid unit, just without all the bells and whistles of Elka and Wilbers. Only a soft, medium, and hard setting. I ran mine on medium and found it performed every bit as well as the Wilbur’s I had on my F3... and I spent weeks trying to adjust that just right 😉😆😆

Pete
According to Geoff at Ikon AU, the correct rear shock for my 2022 RT S2S is #3610-1084. At Ikon's website, the 3610 series shocks have threaded adjusters/hook spanner adjuster, and not the 3 step preload collar. I wonder why this shock is different than yours? Do you have the Ikon shock number you have installed? Also, does Ikon supply the lower spacer and collar tubes, or do you reuse the originals?
 
I thought that EPM Performance parts were the only authorized reseller that Wilbers works with in the US?

At least that is the redirect you go to when trying to order from Wilbers website.
Just found out that EPM offers a first responder/military discount. Leaning towards the Wilbers, as Ikon USA doesn't sell and won't even service, the Ikon 3610-1084 rear shock required for the RT. We shall see...
 
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