• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Fuse for Fog Lights

I do not have a 2012 wiring diagram but suggest you try the right fuse box in your owner's manual and look around fuse 5 or do for a 25 amp fuse that may have blown. On the '14 RTs fuse 5 is for the fog lights and a number of other accessories.
 
If it's like the 2013 the fog lights and heated grips are fed through the load shedding relay, R3 in the RH fuse box. That relay, plus the horn are fed by fuse F5, a 20 amp. Does the horn work? If so the fuse is OK. Do the grips heat up? If not, then the load shedding relay is the likely culprit. If the grips heat and fog lights don't come on then it's the bulbs or wiring.

If a whole bunch of things don't work, like radio, trailer, accessory lights, and hazard lights, then it's probably J2, a 40 amp circuit breaker.
 
WW is that the right word for the relay?
The load shedding relay cuts out the noted loads unless the engine is running. Same sort of thing as the headlights not coming on until the engine is running. Prevents unnecessary excess load on the battery while starting since the starter wants all the juice it can get!
 
I take it then the 2012 fuse box and wiring configuration is different from the 2013?

Looks like it. For 2013 the battery and fuse boxes moved. The fuse and relay positions got shuffled. A lot of the circuits that they control stayed very much the same.
 
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