My brand new F3 has a bloody nose

[GA-SPYDER]

Sort of. Had it on my trailer and didn't tie it down correctly. The point on the nose, just above the intake grill, rubbed on the fold-up ramp. Didn't find it until I got home and boy, was I pi$$ed. The ramp acted like a cheese grater and scraped the point off. Didn't crack the plastic. Has anybody had to fix a body panel before painting? I am thinking about painting it black to match the front fenders. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Carl

 

[jaherbst]

Might consider getting some Super Clamps.

Jack

 

[jcthorne]

Sort of. Had it on my trailer and didn't tie it down correctly. The point on the nose, just above the intake grill, rubbed on the fold-up ramp. Didn't find it until I got home and boy, was I pi$$ed. The ramp acted like a cheese grater and scraped the point off. Didn't crack the plastic. Has anybody had to fix a body panel before painting? I am thinking about painting it black to match the front fenders. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Carl

It can be repaired but you might check the cost of a new body panel from BRP. Many of them are available already painted and ready to install and can be cheaper than the labor to repair and refinish.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

CLAMP OR !!!

Might consider getting some Super Clamps.

Jack

Or my $ 5.00 Rachet Strap idea......find post with PICS..........The problem with tying down the Spyder with straps attached to wheels, suspension parts etc. is it can still move...........MINE DOESN"T..................Mike :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer..!!

know you won't make that mistake again..:banghead: check body shops mostly the ones doing corvettes. Also check cheapcyclesparts.com for price of a new one to compare. Sorry it happened but it will be new again soon...:thumbup:

 

[dreid999]

Skid plate

Sort of. Had it on my trailer and didn't tie it down correctly. The point on the nose, just above the intake grill, rubbed on the fold-up ramp. Didn't find it until I got home and boy, was I pi$$ed. The ramp acted like a cheese grater and scraped the point off. Didn't crack the plastic. Has anybody had to fix a body panel before painting? I am thinking about painting it black to match the front fenders. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Carl

Don't know if Lamonster's skid plate would have prevented this but can truly prevent lower road scraps which I had been having from bottoming out.

 

[tpollon2]

Superclamp Spyder Tie Down

Might consider getting some Super Clamps.

Jack

The Superclamp Spyder tie down would prevent any future incidents from happening again! The cost of the Spyder tie down is a lot easier on your pocket book than repairs

 

[jcthorne]

The Superclamp Spyder tie down would prevent any future incidents from happening again! The cost of the Spyder tie down is a lot easier on your pocket book than repairs

Just tieing down the spyder properly will prevent the sort of damage encountered here. No need to spend $400 on fancy wheel chocks. Ratcheting tie downs work just fine if used correctly.

 

[CanAmChris]

Sort of. Had it on my trailer and didn't tie it down correctly. The point on the nose, just above the intake grill, rubbed on the fold-up ramp. Didn't find it until I got home and boy, was I pi$$ed. The ramp acted like a cheese grater and scraped the point off. Didn't crack the plastic. Has anybody had to fix a body panel before painting? I am thinking about painting it black to match the front fenders. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Carl

Carl, can you post some pics of that damage. Since you are thinking of changing the color there might be some inexpensive options. I would have to see the damage first.

 

[SpydermanCT]

Is there any concern with tying a Spyder down with the ratchet straps hooked to the outer most point of the lower control arms? I always feel like I'm messing with the perfect lazer alignment I got..

 

[jaherbst]

The Superclamp Spyder tie down would prevent any future incidents from happening again! The cost of the Spyder tie down is a lot easier on your pocket book than repairs

I have used them for about 10,000 miles and the are bullet proof.
The next consideration is the super easy hookup from a standing position.

They are cheap verses damage repairs some have had to pay because they did not have them. I see seats that cost $1500 plus by several sponsers here and many other items worth double the cost of the super clamps. Once installed (very easy) you realize how inexpensive they really are due to the security and ease of loading and unloading. Front units will come out with the simple twist of a knob if you need to use trailer for other reasons.

It is all about priorities I guess. The cost of the BRP backrest is $60 more than Superclamps. Just saying.

Jack

 

[MisterP]

Is there any concern with tying a Spyder down with the ratchet straps hooked to the outer most point of the lower control arms? I always feel like I'm messing with the perfect lazer alignment I got..

Thats what I do, don't believe it causes any issues

 

[burg650]

You might also want to look at Black&Gray, I used them when I had my 2009 RS and never had any problems at all.

http://www.blackandgray.com/products/wheel-chocks.html

 

[griffontamer]

I think the factory noses are a little over $200; there are a few on feebay currently for around $150 in various stock colors.

 

[GA-SPYDER]

I think the factory noses are a little over $200; there are a few on feebay currently for around $150 in various stock colors.

Thanks. I'll take a look.

 

[GA-SPYDER]

Not done yet. Have another plan

Anybody old enough to remember the taps/plates that the Ruff Crowd in High School would put on their shoes so the heels would not wear out?
That is what I am going to do on the nose of the Spyder! I have a chunk of aluminum angle with 3/4" legs. I plan on making a wood block that replicates the angles of the nose. The piece of aluminum will be about 3" long and will be shaped like a diamond. It will be thick enough to drill and tap a hole on the center of the back side of it to attach a stud, drill one hole in the center of the nose, and attach it with a nut and washer on the inside of the nose. By bending and shaping on the wood buck, I can beat the living crap out of it to shape it. I plan on polishing and clear coating it. If it doesn't work, I'll buy a new nose!
It will have to wait for now. I have the fairing and handlebars off of my '13 Roadglide. Modifying the bars and running all of the wiring on the inside of the bars. It's got to be done by 08/07. Got a bunch of us trailering up to Cherokee, NC and then ride all of the Blue Ridge. About 8 days.