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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default Oil Drain Plug Removal

    I'm thinking whoever installed my oil drain plug used red loctite with an impact gun or a 4' breaker bar.
    the trans plug was metric & came out as expected. I have stripped the treads on the main oil drain using 3 different sets of large Torq socket inserts. Currently I'm in the process of drilling the plug & using an "Easy Out" removal bit.
    Has anyone else ran across this problem & how did you solve it? Tried to hammer the plug loose--no deal. I was considering using a butane portable torch to try to loosen up the recessed oil drain plug but didn't want to risk a fire with the oil.
    Anyone with a similar problem & resolution ---I have the Gold oil plugs for replacement of stock plugs.
    Darrell
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  2. #2
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    I feel your pain.
    I had to replace my clutch cover at a cost of just under $1,100..
    Come to find out today that the dealer who installed the dimple plugs at 3000 service torqued the plug so tight it snapped the plug in 2
    The head of the plug just spins with threads not moving. With the old clutch cover in my possession you can actually see end of the plug plus 4 threads up from the end. Kinda neat to look at I guess.
    Last edited by beefybudds; 07-30-2016 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Added more info

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Wow...!!

    Generally a socket allen/torx set in place hit solidly with a hammer should break the varnish sealing them in. I have not found one I could not get out this way or going for an impact driver
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default REMOVAL PROCEDURE

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Generally a socket allen/torx set in place hit solidly with a hammer should break the varnish sealing them in. I have not found one I could not get out this way or going for an impact driver
    .............Plus , this may sound STUPID to some ....but I ALWAYS set my ratchet wrench to " re-move " ( lefty loosey ) and check it.....before I put the wrench on.....I have never " tightened " a plug I wanted to remove because it was up-side down ( so left is right etc. )....just a thought to all us non-perfect folks ..........Mike

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    .............Plus , this may sound STUPID to some ....but I ALWAYS set my ratchet wrench to " re-move " ( lefty loosey ) and check it.....before I put the wrench on.....I have never " tightened " a plug I wanted to remove because it was up-side down ( so left is right etc. )....just a thought to all us non-perfect folks ..........Mike
    Thanks Mike--CCW is my direction of choice when removing a plug I'm counting on the "Easy Out" to verify removal direction. :-)

    I'll be back at it again this morning---I'll hammer the plug again should a few more flat punch hits help--then back to the hand drill prepping for the "Easy Out". I can't believe anyone would mistake 210# torg for 21# torq---sucks to be me
    I was thinking of putting a Bounty out on the guy that invented the "Torx design
    Last edited by Wildrice; 07-31-2016 at 09:44 AM.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

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    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    I'll toss out a possible way to remove the plug. I restore old Cub Cadet tractors as a hobby. Very often they have broken bolts that hold the rear ends in the frame. The bolts have Loc-Tite on them from the factory. They tend to break off flush with the case. Easy outs are a waste of time and often they will break making the problem worse. What we have found that works well is to weld a large diameter washer to the broken bolt and then weld a nut to the washer. So far I have not had one that wouldn't come out this way. I use a Mig welder when I do this and I ground to the washer not the case. If you decide to try this I would disconnect the battery to reduce the possibility of frying the computer. Do this at your own risk. 1st pic is a case with a couple broken bolts and 2nd pic is the removed bolts.

    broken bolts 2.jpgbroken bolts 1.jpg

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default Stripped oil drain plug Solution

    Well to start with I don't have a welder :-(
    But in the process of changing drill bits--different sizes to get the "Easy Out" started, more hammer pounding, all with failure.
    Then I notice the bottom of the engine/trans with the recessed torx oil drain plug was covered by a molded piece of plastic-whatever material. There are 2 small bolts up inside at the top of the plastic shield. I removed the 2 small bolts & jiggled the shield until I could pull it down to get a straight view of the round approx 1/8" oil drain plug shoulder. I searched through my tools until I found my largest Vice Plastic cover below oil plug.jpgGrip---clamped that narrow round plug shoulder & PRESTO--it came loose---the ole vice grip trick If any of you are driving past Jiffy Lube this week just stop by and advise them to cancel my job application
    Instead of being an oil change specialist I'm considering becoming a Mortician --a career I could put to good use right after I find the guy that invented the Torx head design.

    Darrell
    Last edited by Wildrice; 07-31-2016 at 02:05 PM.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildrice View Post
    Well to start with I don't have a welder :-(
    But in the process of changing drill bits--different sizes to get the "Easy Out" started, more hammer pounding, all with failure.
    Then I notice the bottom of the engine/trans with the recessed torx oil drain plug was covered by a molded piece of plastic-whatever material. There are 2 small bolts up inside at the top of the plastic shield. I removed the 2 small bolts & jiggled the shield until I could pull it down to get a straight view of the round approx 1/8" oil drain plug shoulder. I searched through my tools until I found my largest Vice Plastic cover below oil plug.jpgGrip---clamped that narrow round plug shoulder & PRESTO--it came loose---the ole vice grip trick If any of you are driving past Jiffy Lube this week just stop by and advise them to cancel my job application
    Instead of being an oil change specialist I'm considering becoming a Mortician --a career I could put to good use right after I find the guy that invented the Torx head design.

    Darrell
    Glad you got it out and still have a sense of humor. I needed a laugh and this provided me with one.

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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    Glad you got it out.

  10. #10
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    This week I made the decision to change the oil on my wife's 2018 RT. I had watched a couple of you tube videos in which one recommended the use of the GOLD PLUG replacement bolts. I'm so glad that I purchased the replacement bolts because I ran into difficulty remove the clutch side drain plug. One of the you tube video's mentioned the tools required were a T45 and a T40. I quickly found out the clutch side bolt was really an 6mm allen, only this did occur until I had stripped it. I purchased an easy out, but that broke off! At the end of the day, I sprayed PB Plaster on it multiple times and let it set. Next, I purchased a bolt extractor made by Irwin from Lowes. I had to use a hammer to get it on. I then used my driller in 'hammer mode' a few times. My last and final step was connecting a ratchet to the Irwin tool and it broke loose. I for one do believe the PB Blaster worked. I could see it being 'drawn into' and 'in and around' the bolt and washer.
    Last edited by gcoyne9825; 09-28-2019 at 06:04 AM. Reason: Add pictures

  11. #11
    Active Member WisconsinDavid's Avatar
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    Glad you got it out... I had the struggle with both the oil tank bolt and engine oil drain bolts. Luckily for me, with endurance, patience and my Christianity severely tested (I'm a pastor), I got them both out without stripping the threads. Both have been replaced with regular head and better bolts.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Great ... I'll be doing my initial 3k oil change in a couple weeks. Hope it goes smoother than those above
    2019 F3-S , Monolith black

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Great ... I'll be doing my initial 3k oil change in a couple weeks. Hope it goes smoother than those above
    If you are using a Ratchet and Sockets.... prior to putting it on the plug …. set the Ratchet to loosen …. this way you WON'T accidentally tighten it …. if you think you would NEVER make that mis-take …. guess again, it happens way more than folks think, or will admit to …. over-tightening GOLD or DIMPLE plugs can easily snap them, if your plug is solid it won't snap, but it can easily strip the Threads which is far worse ….. The other thing I caution about is overtightening the plug after you drain the Oil ….. if you get a drip just tighten a hair more, doing this again until the drip stops …. good luck, all should go well, bro ….. Mike

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    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Ha .. Yup. Been doing all my m/c oil changes for the past 45+ years and always make sure the ratchet is orientated correctly. A quick snap (making sure the socket is nicely seated) tends to be better than gradual pressure too. And, although I have never stripped a drain plug, I've become more anal the past few years of using a TQ wrench when re-installing the plugs versus the snug method
    2019 F3-S , Monolith black

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    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    That piece of plastic over the lower part of the F3-S is what keeps you from being able to get to the edge of the drain plugs with a chisel to tap them out. The piece of plastic has 3 bolts in it. If you take the other bolt near the rear out, you don't need to jiggle the piece of plastic around. It will come completely off. I had the same problem when I did the original break in oil change. Replaced the plugs with Goldplugs. Something else that could possibly help when you do the oil changes is, you don't need the oil at operating temperature before draining it. The plugs might come out a little easier if you only run about a 1/2 mile, or maybe around the block, then put it up and pull the plugs. It doesn't have to be operating temperature. It only needs the oil to stir around enough to get any particles that have settle out to be suspended again before draining it. Pulling the plugs when it is not at operating temperature seems to be a little easier.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  16. #16
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

    After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

    I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 09-28-2019 at 11:49 AM.
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

    After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

    I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.
    Ron I'm glad you mentioned the " give the plug a good TAP " to break the varnish seal …. I'm getting OLD and forget some of the more salient points ….. Mike

  18. #18
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    " give the plug a good TAP " Meaning physically giving the plug(s) a tap ?
    2019 F3-S , Monolith black

  19. #19
    Active Member ChicagoSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

    After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

    I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.
    Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

    Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

    What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.
    2018 F3 Limited , Black/Chrome

  20. #20
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoSpyder View Post
    Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

    Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

    What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.
    Torquing depends on a lot of things and one of them is oil on the threads. It is a little difficult to have clean, dry threads on an oil drain plug.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  21. #21
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoSpyder View Post
    Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

    Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

    What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.
    Pretty much, yes. I used a short 3/8" extension to get some distance and have something solid to hit. I rapped it a few good smacks. Start out with less energy to get a feel for it. You can always hit it harder if needed. Make sure the tool is inserted all the way into the plug and keep it at a right angle to the plug. I would not recommend an impact wrench. Though I have not tried one. It's impossible to get a feel for what is happening with any power driven tool.

    I have no idea what the torque specs are on the drain plugs. I don't think a torque wrench is used, in most cases. It's more a matter of; 'If tight is good. Tighter is better' approach. They just crank it down as tight as they are able and call it good. When all you need to do is just snug the drain plug a bit after contact with the washer is made. It will still get somewhat tighter through the heat cycles. But it will be much more manageable when you go to remove it the next time.
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcoyne9825 View Post
    ...One of the you tube video's mentioned the tools required were a T45 and a T40...
    It's truly amazing as long as the 1330 ACE engine has now been out that some moron could make a video saying the clutch cover plug has a Torx head.
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  23. #23
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    It's truly amazing as long as the 1330 ACE engine has now been out that some moron could make a video saying the clutch cover plug has a Torx head.
    There is a lot of great information on the web. There is also a fair amount of bad information. Like the guy who said to turn the rear caliper piston counter clock wise. It's amazing how many people have found that statement. Very bad results. You just have to be careful. I'm sure these people are well meaning. But it's you who will suffer the consequences if it goes wrong.
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  24. #24
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoSpyder View Post
    Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

    Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

    What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.
    " TAP " the plug …. When I do this - the socket tool I'm using is inserted into the " PLUG " usually with a short extension ……. and the end is tapped ( moderately ) a couple of times, this is the safest way on doing it ….. you don't want to accidently hit the Engine case etc.….....Mike

  25. #25
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Cool.. Thanks. Always amazed at how tight the oil bolts are when removing them for the first time. May/may not go the Gold Plug route when I do the first change. My Triumph 800 had a hex bolt with no issues. The angled torx seems to be asking for a traditional drain bolt...
    2019 F3-S , Monolith black

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