transmission slipping

[kermie]

i have a 2011 RTSE5 with 7700 miles on it. 3rd, 4th and5th gears slip when i crank the throttle to pass some one. if i throttle into it easy there's no slippage but if i crank the gas it revs up to 8000rpm and slowly comes down. anyone else experiance this problem ?

[kermie]

whatever the oil is in the spyder oil change kit for SE5 99. the dealer has done all my oil changes, the last one at 6000 miles. that's when they installed the upgrade for the new oil panel. the oil change kit is supposed to be new also requireing the oil to be changed every 7000 miles instead of 3000 miles

[murphybrown]

Wondering if you are checking oil level between changes. I have a 2010 rtse5. And I add about 12 oz every 1000 or so. I know before I understood the importance of checking level. A couple times I experienced "slippage". Was needed oil .. I use AMSOIL

[kermie]

the oil is just above the add line, should it be higher , more towards the full mark ??

[retired1]

When I'm going to pass someone, I usually drop down a gear to make sure I'm turning at least 4000rpm before I give it the throttle. I do have an SE which doesn't(lock up) until 3500rpm, or higher.

[kermie]

thanks everybody, i'll add some oil to see if that helps. in the meantime my dealer has ordered new cluth plates for it . i have been shifting way before 5000 rpm and that has probably caused some damage to the plates. i never new it needed to be in that area of 5000 rpms before shifting but i do now. also iv'e been using 5th gear alot between about 35 or40mph...live and learn i guess.again thanks for the input's my friend's.

[CyncySpyder]

whatever the oil is in the spyder oil change kit for SE5 99. the dealer has done all my oil changes, the last one at 6000 miles. that's when they installed the upgrade for the new oil panel. the oil change kit is supposed to be new also requireing the oil to be changed every 7000 miles instead of 3000 miles

Just an FYI: The new oil change intervals are NOT every 7000 miles, its now every 4,500 miles

[kermie]

glad you siad something, the dealer told me with the new filter there using and the oil that it would be every 7000 miles....can't always tust the dealer i guess

[NancysToy]

Your transmission doesn't slip. Your clutch is slipping...and needs to be replaced. Since you have been using the correct oil, the short shifting and low rpm operation are probably the cause of your difficulties. When you get the new clutch kit, you are going to have to learn some new habits.

[Jeriatric]

thanks everybody, i'll add some oil to see if that helps. in the meantime my dealer has ordered new cluth plates for it . i have been shifting way before 5000 rpm and that has probably caused some damage to the plates. i never new it needed to be in that area of 5000 rpms before shifting but i do now. also iv'e been using 5th gear alot between about 35 or40mph...live and learn i guess.again thanks for the input's my friend's.

Too bad you had to learn the importance of proper RPM's the hard way.

Here's a link you may want to read and go back to occasionally. Lot's of good info!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

[SpyderWolf]

Your transmission doesn't slip. Your clutch is slipping...and needs to be replaced. Since you have been using the correct oil, the short shifting and low rpm operation are probably the cause of your difficulties. When you get the new clutch kit, you are going to have to learn some new habits.

I wasn't even aware you could get the SE5 into 5th gear between 35 and 40 mph, I am usually only in 2nd gear at that speed.

[gypsy_100]

i have a 2011 RTSE5 with 7700 miles on it. 3rd, 4th and5th gears slip when i crank the throttle to pass some one. if i throttle into it easy there's no slippage but if i crank the gas it revs up to 8000rpm and slowly comes down. anyone else experiance this problem ?

Your transmission doesn't slip. Your clutch is slipping...and needs to be replaced. Since you have been using the correct oil, the short shifting and low rpm operation are probably the cause of your difficulties. When you get the new clutch kit, you are going to have to learn some new habits.

Rolling hard on the throttle in the higher gears is the classic way to detect clutch slippage. Your description certainly indicates that. As to the causes, the foregoing comments sound right on -- keep the rev's a little higher to keep the clutch fully engaged. Make sure you've had the computer update that raises the minimum rpm downshift points when you let the transmission downshift itself.

[ARCTIC]

The high rpm deal takes some fun out of these things. I don't really enjoy revving the crap out of this thing just to cruise around town. It's not a big deal at higher speeds but that 25mph zone is annoying IMHO

[Bootie]

i have a 2011 RTSE5 with 7700 miles on it. 3rd, 4th and5th gears slip when i crank the throttle to pass some one. if i throttle into it easy there's no slippage but if i crank the gas it revs up to 8000rpm and slowly comes down. anyone else experiance this problem ?

Yes!!! Bad Clutch Gears don't normally slip; Clutches do, however.

[ARCTIC]

How big of a project is it to put a clutch in one of these anyway?

[NancysToy]

The high rpm deal takes some fun out of these things. I don't really enjoy revving the crap out of this thing just to cruise around town. It's not a big deal at higher speeds but that 25mph zone is annoying IMHO

If running the engine up to 4500 before shifting, and keeping the revs above 3500 or so is "revving the crap out of this thing", then perhaps you should be riding something else...or at least a manual clutch version. This is not a Harley or Goldwing...it needs the revs just to run well. Halfway to the redline is loafing for almost any machine. It sure as heck is not revving the rap out of things. JMHO

[kinggeek]

How big of a project is it to put a clutch in one of these anyway?

Pretty big from what I have seen, but that was only after a slipping clutch turned into an exploding clutch!

[ARCTIC]

If running the engine up to 4500 before shifting, and keeping the revs above 3500 or so is "revving the crap out of this thing", then perhaps you should be riding something else...or at least a manual clutch version. This is not a Harley or Goldwing...it needs the revs just to run well. Halfway to the redline is loafing for almost any machine. It sure as heck is not revving the rap out of things. JMHO

I can't ride any thing with a manual clutch and especially 2 wheels otherwise I probably would. I call it "revving the crap out of it" because the sound of the engine is abnormal to have to run those rpms compared to every other motorized vehicle. When you're running those rpms, it slows rapidly with engine braking. It's weird. And there's a reason every owner has to be told to drive at elevated RPMS..... because it's not a natural driving habit. You have to run this thing like you're gonna get into a unannounced drag race at any moment. I'm not saying that you're always flirting with engine damage at those RPM's it's just strange that you HAVE TO. Sport bikes have 10K+ RPM limiters and you don't have to be on the pipe all the time. You can cruise around at low rpms. All I'm saying is that it would be more enjoyable if you could pop it up a gear when putzing around town. I'm surprised they (BRP) couldn't get it so it locks when you're in the next gear no matter what the RPM's are.

[Buckeye Bob]

I've had the same problem with the clutch slipping. Mine is a 2010 with 4,000 miles on it and out of warranty. Fortunately, CanAm is covering the parts because of the low mileage and I'll be paying the labor of about $300. It's been at the dealer for almost 5 weeks with parts backorder issues; I'm told.

[Firefly]

Sport bikes don't come in semi-auto. All rotax engines like the higher rpms. It's just how they are. Cruising rpms should be around 4,500 give or take. I don't shift until around 7,000 or so. If you're cruising around town doing 35 mph in 4th gear, you're lugging and going to cause damage.

[Bob Denman]

Question: did they come out with some upgraded clutch parts?

[Grandpa Spyder]

I really think can am dropped the ball on the shifting issue. Any other bike you buy has in the book where the shifting points are. I have read the book from front to back and no where does it tell you about shifting points. And I also give the dealer hell because they did not tell me either. I learned it here.

[ulflyer]

I really think can am dropped the ball on the shifting issue. Any other bike you buy has in the book where the shifting points are. I have read the book from front to back and no where does it tell you about shifting points. And I also give the dealer hell because they did not tell me either. I learned it here.

I agree. Mine, being a '11 model was ridden rather modestly for a year until BRP came out last year with the news we SE owners have been potentially causing clutch wear by letting the transmission downshift when it wants to...and it did lug down quite a bit...and still does ...unless you manually shift it down. I've learned to do this and always shifted up above the 4K mark; however, you can bet your butt that BRP won't accept any responsibility for clutch wear due to their lack of info. I've begun to get a little slippage when I shift to second.

Someone reported it cost them $900 for the rebuild.

[NancysToy]

Question: did they come out with some upgraded clutch parts?

There are new clutch packs for both the SE and SM. A different oil jet, an additional plate and disc, and steel plates instead of alloy.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks! it's too bad that we just have to wait for a failure in order to get the new parts.