RT Hitch removal and belt adjustment

[Lamonster]

These are questions that come up all the time so I decided that since I needed to make some adjustments on my belt I would go ahead and take some pics and add captions to answer some of the questions that have been posted here many times before. As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words so I hope this will cut down on my typing.

You start by removing the through bolt that holds the hitch on.


This bolt should slide right out after the nut is removed from the right side.


Now you're ready to remove the hitch after the bolt is removed.


The hitch is going to be on there pretty tight so grab the ball and move it side to side till it breaks loose. Then pull it straight back being careful of the brake line and sensor wire on the right side.


This shouldn't take much more than 5 min. to get the hitch off. Took me a little longer as you can tell by the time stamp.


The last time my dealer did a tire change and belt tension check I got out my Krikit and marked it where he had it set with the sonic gauge. This has worked well for me for many years and you can pick these up for about $20 bucks.


When the Spyder is on the ground go ahead and loosen the axle nut. When you have the Spyder in the air you can start making adjustments. As you can see from the picture I have the belt just off of the sprocket flange about 1-2mm. This can be a fight some times and you're better off making small adjustments to start with as it doesn't take much to move the belt.


After I get the belt where I like it I check the tension while it's on the ground it should be a little more when it's on the ground because the swingarm is now more inline with the counter sprocket.




I don't know how many times I've been asked about removing the hitch bolt from folks that thought it was the axle. This picture is just to show you that the axle is under the hitch and removing the hitch bolt has no effect on the belt tension.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...

[SteveMac]

Great Tutorial and Excellent Writeup!

[Lamonster]

Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

[CyncySpyder]

I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful Spyder Owners Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT

[Littlebadwolf]

I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.

[EzeSpyderGA]

Is the 150# reading typical when the rear wheel is off the ground and the 200# reading when the has the rear wheel on the ground? Thanks for the great tip and the reference to the Kirkit tool. I found one with a 100-300 pound range and ordered that bad boy.

[chipshotin]

I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.

good luck ive been looking for 2 years

[canam9]

I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful Spyder Owners Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT

Thank you thank you!!!

[SpyderFun]

According to Service Bulletin 2010-6 the "new" factory tension is supposed to be:
450 +/- 150 Newtons
(or a minimum of 300 to a maximum of 600 Newtons)

Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds

Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
300 Newtons = 67.4 lbs
450 Newtons = 101.2 lbs
600 Newtons = 134.9 lbs

However, this does not mean what you should be getting. It simply shows the difference between the numbers the dealer uses versus what may seem an easy mathematical "conversion".

WHY BRP chose to measure the belt tension with an expensive piece of equipment is up for grabs! After all, tension is tension. They just chose an expensive way of measuring it.

IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which logically may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means. Conversely, if one were to tension a belt to "x" pounds it would also have a reflective newton value.

***Thanks Scotty for the updated limits! I was not aware of them when I made my original post.

[StanProff]

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

[SpyderFun]

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual.

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

[StanProff]

Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual.

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

Doing alignment: I think I read somewhere that using 3rd was a little safer if something were to happen and the spyder fell to the ground. It would kill the motor easier than first. I am sure it doesn't matter much either way. Also it seemed to spin a little smoother in 3rd than 1st, i had it in both. 1st was a little more hurky jerky. Anyway the alignment worked out perfect and all is well. I ordered a Kriket to check the belt tension and will tackle that next. Thanks for your input.

[pellcitypete]

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete

[Lamonster]

I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete

He got lucky and yours did what it should do. You should not run your Spyder in gear without pulling the speed sensor and I wouldn't recommend doing that. You can do all your adjustment just fine like I have posted above.

[Wildrice]

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

The adjusting screws set the tire & sprocket in a left or right direction plus set the belt tension. Adjusting the right screw clockwise in (pushing the right side of the tire/sprocket to the rear) to move the belt away from the rear flange. Tell me how this would be different than adjusting the left screw counter clockwise? It has to be a balance to get the tire running straight with the desired belt tension & locating the belt on the rear pulley to the desired distance from the flange. I can't imagine how turning either screw would not effect either the tension or alignment, provided everything is straight---it's a both screw adjustment--unless the adjustment is minor & doesn't effect tension or alignment out of desired setting. Just my 2 cents worth.
Darrell

[M109Dreamer]

I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[SpyderFun]

I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The "blue" part is how the Kirkit measures the belt resistance.

Step 1. Make sure the "blue" is flush with the Kirkit or "pushed down"
Step 2. Find the center of the belt between the front sprocket and the rear sprocket.
Step 3. Place the Kirkit centered on the belt and push smoothly down until you hear a "click"
Step 4. Take the reading
Step 5. For an accurate reading - repeat the above after rotating the belt

Hope this helps!



-Mike

[M109Dreamer]

Thanks Mike,
So just to be sure. I dont have to do anything prior to the Kirkit? Just push down evenly till I get the "click"?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[SpyderFun]

The Kirkit works just like a torque wrench.....except you do not set it first. The "click" your hear will be the belts tension - kinda automatic.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

[M109Dreamer]

The Kirkit works just like a torque wrench.....except you do not set it first. The "click" your hear will be the belts tension - kinda automatic.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

Im tracking now, thanks!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[SpyderFun]

Glad to help!


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

[TroyboyRn]

HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

[StanProff]

HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

My 2010 RT S runs about 180 lbs. with the krikit. that is where it has been since new. Anything over 200 seems too tight to me and could cause bearing problems.

[finless]

HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

Can I just add.... The belt tension spec is SOOOOOO liberal that it's not rocket science. Scotty can jump in here but the current spec has a 30% variability range! It surprises me that with this HUGE range you even need a sonic gauge! It's like WTF?????

This is my honest opinion now that I have adjusted my belt AND watched many videos and other peoples posts on the "value" they read using the Kirkit gauge! Even from Lamont using the Kirkit gauge!

IT"S NOT FREAKIN THAT CRITICAL!

I did what everyone said. I went and got my 600 mile service and they DID adjust my belt. I know that because my tracking on the rear pulley was off and after service it was spot on! Then, that same day, I got a Kirkit and read the belt tension. It turned out to be EXACTLY like Lamont's video and others that used the Kirkit doing the same as I.

What did this tell me to be honest... IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE! It's not a VOOODOOO adjustment! And I am sorry... You don't need a expensive sonic gauge either! Why BRP does this is beyond me. Maybe they are trying to take into account that not all replacement belts are the same or something?

NOTE: If I had to replace my belt ONLY THEN would I consider the sonic adjustment! Even then I might just freakin say... screw it... I will do it myself.

Your mileage may vary but for me, I wont go to a dealer and spend $100 for a simple belt adjustment. I would be willing to bet right now that a few years from now, I will report back here that I have had NO issues doing this adjustment myself.

My .00000002 cents!

Bob