WARNING FOR ALL RT OWNERS * You may want to check this on your machine

[CyncySpyder]

IMG_20111203_120440.jpgIMG_20111203_154637.jpgIMG_20111203_120854.jpgIMG_20111203_120900.jpg
The windshield of the RTs are held by three points. Two points are pivot points & the third, which is in the center of the shield, is the dog-boned shaped metal adjustment mechanism that actually goes up & down with the press of your button on the RECC. Its that metal, dog-boned shaped mechanism that is failing, usually with a noticable crack half way thru, before it actually gives, and cracks all the way through. Just keep an eye on yours. If it breaks, a hose-clamp can offer a temporary fix. But ryding with it broke, isn't advisable as the shield is laying on top of your dash, & with any wind turbulance, you'll end up needing a new shield.

[Lamonster]

I think that is the third of forth one I've seen now.

[SpyderAnn01]

Dave, I'm looking at this on my phone and can't tell what it is that you are showing. What are we looking at? Thanks.

[MarkLawson]

Dave, I'm looking at this on my phone and can't tell what it is that you are showing. What are we looking at? Thanks.

The brackets that hold the windshield have broken.

[CyncySpyder]

There is another thread posted on here, where at least 5 or 6 others have broken as well. The shield is held in place by two pivot points, those seem to be fine. In the center of the shield, their is a dog-bone shaped adjusting arm that is attached to a motor on one end & the shield on the other. Its that dog-boned shaped metal arm that will crack & ultimately fail. Others have reported that you can tell it was cracked a while before it actually broke thru. Mine was the same. You could see an old crack along with a fresh crack when it finally gave way. Others have reported it is under Warrantee & at least one other had the motor & complete mechanism replaced. I have yet to discuss it with my shop.

Hope this helps.

[currin20fan]

Hmm...I wonder if this should be a "recall" thing?

[bikerchris1270]

I think that is the third of forth one I've seen now.

********* He’s BACK!!!**********👍

[Peter Aawen]

I think that is the third of forth one I've seen now.

********* He’s BACK!!!**********👍

Sorry...

[GeoffCee]

The windshield of the RTs are held by three points.... Its that metal, dog-boned shaped mechanism that is failing, usually with a noticable crack half way thru, before it actually gives, and cracks all the way through.

With the color change half way across the bracket it looks like metal fatigue had set in before the break. Is that how you see it?

IMG_20111203_120900.jpg

[CyncySpyder]

Just checked my 2010 SM5 RT and it is cracked. I am in Florida and will keep my eye on it while here and get it into my dealer when I get home. Thanks for letting us know as I would have just drove it till it broke.

WoW, sorry yours IS cracked, but at least now you know it. I'd keep a 4" hose clamp & screw driver in your trunk just in case it does break all the way.

I can see it coming some day, A class action lawsuit when one fails at 50 plus mph wind and knocks some one off there bike, and or kill the rider and or passenger. I never looked at mine but I will, I have to drive on a ruff dirt road for a mile before I hit pavement and the shield dos bounce around a lot.

IMHO & personally experiencing the break while ryding, I doubt this scenerio would happen. The shield itself will still be held on by the two pivot points on the sides. When mine broke, albeit at only 10mph, it just slammed back toward me & was resting on the two pivot points & the GPS thats mounted to the top of the dash, but it was no where near close enough to hit me. I realize most other RT ryders don't have a GPS mounted to the dash-top, but it would have still been resting on the top of the dash & the two pivot points. I'm not saying a catastrophic break at a high rate of speed/wind-turbulance couldn't break the 2 pivot points as well. Obviously, if that happend, may god help you

I checked mine 2010 RT SE5, Looks good no cracks yet 25000 mi on it. Thanks for the heads up.

did a rough visual when the weather cleared up at work...
no crack YET. but... I will be keeping an eye on it.thanks for the info

With the color change half way across the bracket it looks like metal fatigue had set in before the break. Is that how you see it?

Yes, thats the way it looks to me as well. Besides the actual break that is all the way through, if you look closely at this picture, you can actually see ANOTHER CRACK that has formed higher up on the bracket, and like the original crack, its only half way thru the bracket

IMG_20111203_154637.jpg

[glynnk]

Just checked mine...no visable cracks. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.

Glynnk

[dabreitbach]

Heck. If you have one thats not cracked just get a stainless steel hose clamp on it and don't worry about it. That should solve any breakage potential.

[ThreeWheels]

Heck. If you have one thats not cracked just get a stainless steel hose clamp on it and don't worry about it. That should solve any breakage potential.

I suspect that a hose clamp wouldn't be good enough. The problem seems to be from the windshield shaking side to side and twisting this piece.
I'm not sure keeping the arm in compression would solve that.

Mine failed in exactly the same mode. First it broke close to the shield, and after i glued it together it failed again closer to the bike portion shortly afterwards.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

[Spyydrman]

Well guys I am in Australia and mine has failed. Still waiting on a replacement. My mates has also broken but they were quick to fix it. Replace the whole mechanism. New one seems to be stronger. We will see.

[Cruzr Joe]

3500 miles and mine appear to be in good shape


Sent by morse code from a hidden bunker

[prmurat]

I still do not understand why no one has produce a dog bone in billet alloy or SS... Maybe it will move the breaking to another part or just show the weakness of the stock one? IMHO the windshield should be held by two more dog bones on the side to stop it to move laterally...

[jmstiffany]

IMG_20111203_120440.jpgIMG_20111203_154637.jpgIMG_20111203_120854.jpgIMG_20111203_120900.jpg
The windshield of the RTs are held by three points. Two points are pivot points & the third, which is in the center of the shield, is the dog-boned shaped metal adjustment mechanism that actually goes up & down with the press of your button on the RECC. Its that metal, dog-boned shaped mechanism that is failing, usually with a noticable crack half way thru, before it actually gives, and cracks all the way through. Just keep an eye on yours. If it breaks, a hose-clamp can offer a temporary fix. But ryding with it broke, isn't advisable as the shield is laying on top of your dash, & with any wind turbulance, you'll end up needing a new shield.

Mine broke right after i got on the highway. The windshield folded back on the dash. I was able to get turned around and limp back to the house. Checked with the dealer and BRP covered it under warranty. They sent the whole assembly that has the motor and all three arms on it. I was scheduled to leave on an out of town ride the next day so I took the arm off and went to a weld shop and they were able to weld the arm for me for $40. It worked fine for the trip and then I changed the whole part when I got back. Kept the old for a spare though.

James

[Bob Denman]

You have a spare???

[jthornton]

You have a spare???

I was waiting on that...

JT

[Bob Denman]

My delaer is taking up the case with BRP...
We have several possible routes to run here...
A goodwill gesture? (Im such an S.O.B.; that one's done! )
Perhaps a manufacturing defect... They're going to want to see the two hunks of metal that I've got here then...
I'll keep you posted as to what I hear.
Please keep your fingers crossed!
Oh! The Dang part is now $573!!

[Coffresi]

Thank you for the heads up, will check today as I am installing my air intake vents/scoops.

[ARtraveler]

This thread dates back to 2011. We have not heard of windshield arm issues for a long time now. No problems with my 2011 or 2014.

[LeftCoast]

21,000 miles and mine is fine. Guy who sold me the bike warned me to not leave it lowered or raised all the way though and I think that's in one of the new owner stickies too.

[ARtraveler]

21,000 miles and mine is fine. Guy who sold me the bike warned me to not leave it lowered or raised all the way though and I think that's in one of the new owner stickies too.

I do the same.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

21,000 miles and mine is fine. Guy who sold me the bike warned me to not leave it lowered or raised all the way though and I think that's in one of the new owner stickies too.

Before " No Boots " designed the Aluminum ones, I took mine apart and added 22mm metal sides and a strap that went completely around the arm …. I then welded the three pieces together , it's now almost indestructible ….. Something I did discover was when the ARM is fully down, it doesn't actually rest on anything ….. while testing my ARM I put a piece of paper on the metal part under ARM when it is lowered. I could easily take the paper out, the ARM wasn't touching it...… some Myths need to be debunked, like the " remove key and walk 20 ft. away for 10 minutes to re-set the computer " and you should be able to re-start the Spyder …. Billy Bovine has written a few post on this …… Mike