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  1. #26
    Very Active Member K80Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetfixer View Post
    Why not get a new one under warranty?
    There's nothing wrong with the original strut. When you start adding things like the butt buffer, gel inserts and such is when the problem starts. Just replacing it with the stock strut would accomplish nothing.
    2020 RT Limited Chrome , Petrol Blue

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetfixer View Post
    Why not get a new one under warranty?
    Adding to what K80shooter noted, the stock strut is only about 15-20 pounds force which barely holds up the OEM seat so adding a gel seat insert (what I did) adds weight which renders the stock strut incapable of holding the seat up when filling gas tank and checking oil.

  3. #28
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    I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.

    Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).

    BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.

    You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.

    Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.

    DSC_0001.jpg
    DSC_0002.jpg

    New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.

    strut.jpg

  4. #29
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    I just received my strut from McMaster-Carr. I ordered 9416K14, which is exactly the same dimensions and stroke as the original. I also ordered the 6465K26 eyelet which does indeed open the seat farther.
    My unscientific digital bathroom scale test indicated 43.7 lbs. to close it. I'm sure that will become some what less with use.
    It appears that either WJH's part or mine will work.
    I know I'm happy!
    The new strut shows a Suspa part # C16-14870.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member K80Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilcoJunoHotel View Post
    I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.

    Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).

    BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.

    You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.

    Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.

    DSC_0001.jpg
    DSC_0002.jpg

    New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.

    strut.jpg
    You should have gotten the 9416K14 in 30lb, it's exactly like the oem one. I also got the 9416K11 just in case the other one didn't work but I think either one will work much better than the 18# factory one.

    Glad it worked out for you.
    2020 RT Limited Chrome , Petrol Blue

  6. #31
    Very Active Member K80Shooter's Avatar
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    @WilcoJunoHotel Did the extra length in that strut increase the seat lift a noticeable amount? I know I like mine a lot better with the extra height.
    2020 RT Limited Chrome , Petrol Blue

  7. #32
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    Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.

    IMG_20210716_0629137.jpg

  8. #33
    Very Active Member K80Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilcoJunoHotel View Post
    Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.

    IMG_20210716_0629137.jpg
    I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.
    2020 RT Limited Chrome , Petrol Blue

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by K80Shooter View Post
    I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.
    Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet.
    2021 Spyder RT-L Deep Marsalsa Metalic


  10. #35
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I re-placed my seat strut ( for a different reason ) with a stiff rod .... works everytime, and will never fail .... I didn't have to drill the frame , there was / are two pushpins that can be re-moved and replaced with 5 (?) inch 1/4 dis. bolt .... then add the rod ..... good luck .... Mike
    Yeah, I think that will be my solution. Thanks Mike

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars (elongated handlebar bar slot to get more height)
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    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round (setting 2 of 4 for pothole smoothing with improved handling)
    Russell Daylong seat 2 taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2 ground clearance.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  11. #36
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    I'm with jetfixer, I got a new one under warranty, a PIA with dealer dealings, but probably worth the aggravation.

    Bill Wms
    Sebring Florida
    2020 RTL

  12. #37
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Yeah, I think that will be my solution……. Thanks Mike

    Pete
    Pete, look in my Album " gas strut " re-placement " if you click on the pic it will enlarge and tell what I did ..... Mike

  13. #38
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanDanTMM View Post
    Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet.
    Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Also check my post #4 ..... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-10-2022 at 12:07 PM.

  14. #39
    Very Active Member K80Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Mikle
    Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.
    2020 RT Limited Chrome , Petrol Blue

  15. #40
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K80Shooter View Post
    Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.
    It will be interesting to see just what Daylong have done to the drivers seat to give me a little more seat height and heavy duty suspension, K80. I told them they could do whatever they liked to the rear seat, as it is a spare, so they may have reshaped it to compensate for the thicker drivers seat. They can’t move the drivers seat back due to the hinges and shape, so I have to use my stock drivers backrest in the rear seat hole. It’s a “brave new world”,

    I do like Mike’s idea of a rod, rather than a gas strut. Perhaps I can find some way of attaching the rod on a swivel to the underside of the seat, so it props automatically when I lift the seat. A little more room under the seat would be welcome too, but all that is speculation until I see/test the Daylong seat

    Pere
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars (elongated handlebar bar slot to get more height)
    Highway pegs bolted under floorboards.
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round (setting 2 of 4 for pothole smoothing with improved handling)
    Russell Daylong seat 2 taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2 ground clearance.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  16. #41
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    I've grown tired of fighting with the seat on my 2020 RTL too, so I'll try the K80 method.

    Thanks, Shooter for the part numbers. I've ordered them and will post up my results and observations.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  17. #42
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Okay, I got and installed the parts. They work well, nothing super dramatic, it just works. The seat will now lift on its own and stay up when fueling, which it never did. Adding the plastic tip vs the OEM pot metal bracket tip is a nice extra touch. It does lift the seat slightly higher and thus makes fueling easier. Thanks again, Shooter, for taking the lead in this fix.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  18. #43
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    Default Thank you

    Very valuable information @K80Shooter!
    My parts are on order to make this fix.
    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Huey

  19. #44
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    Lightbulb Removing Seat Strut

    Quote Originally Posted by Iceman47 View Post
    Thanks to all who replied and suggestions for sources I hadn't thought of. My belt tensioner from Lamonster should arrive in the next couple of days, which will necessitate removing the same panels needed to access the strut and take measurements. If I find a replacement I'll be sure to post the info.
    I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

    sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

    Mark

  20. #45
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZviejo View Post
    I found it unnecessary to pull off any panels to get the strut off. I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr. after it came I removed the worthless one this way. First I removed the back seat back pad. Then removed the rear seat. At this point the top of the strut is visible. I removed the 8mm screw holding the top of the strut and removed it from the plastic pin on the front seat. I now was able to flip the front seat all the way over into the rear seat space. now looking down, one can see the bottom of the strut mounted on the ball pin below. using a long skinny screwdriver, i slipped the blade into the slot on the back of the ball clamp and pulled the spring clip away from the back of the strut and easily pried the mount off the ball and pulled it out from the top. putting the new one in was this procedure done in reverse.

    sure beats having to remove any Tupperware. Just have to mess with the seats. Just need an 8mm wrench, a long screwdriver with a skinny blade, and a flashlight. I hope this helps any of you fine folks out there. If it helps even one, i'm a happy old man!

    Mark
    ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    ALWAYS check the date of the thread & posts before replying Mark, ESPECIALLY that of the first post in the thread AND the date of the last few posts in the thread - your info certainly might be helpful to others searching in the future, so thanks for that Buuut, I doubt it'll actually benefit Iceman now, seeing that he posted what you quoted almost a year ago, so he's probably waaayy past pulling those panels
    Sorry, im a n00b here.

  22. #47
    Active Member FINFAN3DP's Avatar
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    Default Yup, this works too...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jetfixer View Post
    Why not get a new one under warranty?
    I just did this recently. They fixed the seat one and the trunk one. Both work great now, and didn't cost me a dime. Now I have to get her back in there for this new recall, and have them install the Belt Tensioner I just bought from Lamonster.
    2020 Can Am Spyder RT Limited "The Comet #2"

    Baja Ron Sway Bar
    Passenger Armrests From Can Am
    Wolo Big Bad Max Airhorn
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    Ultragard Cover from Lamonster
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    Foam Grips from Spyderpops
    Tricled Strobe Brake Light module
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    2020 RT Limited , Says Chalk White, but in person it is much more gray

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iceman47 View Post
    Has anyone replaced the gas strut on their '20 or '21 RTL? Mine barely holds the seat open with nothing on it. I have a Butt Buffer and have to take it off everytime I fuel.
    The original strut was shot when I got home with the Spyder brand new. How the dealership missed this is beyond me, as the tank was full. I didn't write down the info on the replacement strut or take measurements, but if no one has info on a stronger strut I'll start removing Tupperware.
    As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

    Chip
    2020 RTL
    "Stella by Starlight"

    EDIT: When I did this, I had the passenger seat off for other repairs. With the pax seat back on, the driver's seat only opens about 12 inches. I cut a segment of old broom handle to hold it open during refueling. I stored the handle in the organizer at the back of the frunk between uses.
    Last edited by chipveres; 05-12-2023 at 12:04 PM. Reason: My Error

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by chipveres View Post
    As usual, I have a different approach to the problem. I just disconnected the top of the strut and left everything else in place. Put the screw back in the plastic hinge so it doesn't wind up in a tire. The seat now folds back until it hits the trunk, but that's no problem. Eventually something else will motivate me to take the plastic off the left side and I will completely remove the strut.

    Chip
    2020 RTL
    "Stella by Starlight"
    I put the external spring on mine and it works fine but I think I may try what Chip did, why not get it completely out of the way.
    2021 Spyder RT Limited (Sea-To-Sky)
    2022 Ryker Rally

  25. #50
    Active Member Rick28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZviejo View Post
    I ordered the replacement strut . referenced elsewhere in the thread from McMaster Carr.
    What is the part number for the one You ordered ?
    2022 Can Am Spyder RT Limited

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