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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Jetfixer
Why not get a new one under warranty?
There's nothing wrong with the original strut. When you start adding things like the butt buffer, gel inserts and such is when the problem starts. Just replacing it with the stock strut would accomplish nothing.
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 Originally Posted by Jetfixer
Why not get a new one under warranty?
Adding to what K80shooter noted, the stock strut is only about 15-20 pounds force which barely holds up the OEM seat so adding a gel seat insert (what I did) adds weight which renders the stock strut incapable of holding the seat up when filling gas tank and checking oil.
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I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.
Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).
BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.
You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.
Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.
DSC_0001.jpg
DSC_0002.jpg
New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.
strut.jpg
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I just received my strut from McMaster-Carr. I ordered 9416K14, which is exactly the same dimensions and stroke as the original. I also ordered the 6465K26 eyelet which does indeed open the seat farther.
My unscientific digital bathroom scale test indicated 43.7 lbs. to close it. I'm sure that will become some what less with use.
It appears that either WJH's part or mine will work.
I know I'm happy!
The new strut shows a Suspa part # C16-14870.
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by WilcoJunoHotel
I ordered McMaster Carr PN 9416K11 (30# force) which is a little bit longer than the stock one but not quite as beefy in body and rod diameter.
Installed it today using the OEM "ends" and it seems to work fine  - holds up the seat with no problem but it is not so forceful that the seat pops up on it's own so I think I have about the right force (30#).
BTW, to unscrew the factory OEM "ends", it helps to place the strut in a vise using plastic vise pads like these so you don't damage the strut (in case you need it later). The eyelet end on mine took some force to unscrew but the ball socket end came right off.
You also don't need to remove anything but the passenger seat to gain access. A long narrow screwdriver wedged "just so" will release the clip at the ball socket end and it comes right out.
Thanks to K80shooter for finding the source for this strut rod. Might even be able to use one even longer but you are limited to how long it can be based on the travel of the strut and the fixed location of the ball end.
DSC_0001.jpg
DSC_0002.jpg
New strut is the smaller one in the pics above. I figured the weak link in the OEM setup is the plastic nib on the seat hinge so going with a slightly smaller shock rod was not going to make any difference - if anything breaks/fails, it will be that plastic nib not a smaller steel shock rod. And, it isn't exactly a critical component.
strut.jpg
You should have gotten the 9416K14 in 30lb, it's exactly like the oem one. I also got the 9416K11 just in case the other one didn't work but I think either one will work much better than the 18# factory one.
Glad it worked out for you.
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Very Active Member
@WilcoJunoHotel Did the extra length in that strut increase the seat lift a noticeable amount? I know I like mine a lot better with the extra height.
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Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.
IMG_20210716_0629137.jpg
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by WilcoJunoHotel
Here is a pic - I placed the bottom edge of the ruler along the blue body panel piece just forward of where it meets the black body panel piece.
IMG_20210716_0629137.jpg
I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.
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 Originally Posted by K80Shooter
I'd call that 11-1/2" close enough for me. I'll check mine like that to compare but it looks like you have plenty of room now.
Thanks guys! I want some extra lift in my seat and didn't want to move my AirHawk every time I filled up. Just order myself a new strut and eyelet.
2021 Spyder RT-L Deep Marsalsa Metalic

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Very Active Member
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars (elongated handlebar bar slot to get more height)
Highway pegs bolted under floorboards.
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/15 boot access.
Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable in Oz ATM).
RabbitWorks (Aussie) Dual Setting Stabiliser Bar (Lamonster links)
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round (setting 2 of 4 for pothole smoothing with improved handling)
Russell Daylong custom seat on order (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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I'm with jetfixer, I got a new one under warranty, a PIA with dealer dealings, but probably worth the aggravation.
Bill Wms
Sebring Florida
2020 RTL
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Peteoz
Yeah, I think that will be my solution……. Thanks Mike
Pete
Pete, look in my Album " gas strut " re-placement " if you click on the pic it will enlarge and tell what I did ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-10-2022 at 12:07 PM.
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Look at my Album - gas strut re-placement - this is how I REMOVED the OEM strut so I could OPEN the seat about 14 inches higher ..... it makes " Brake fluid " checking MUCH easier .... Mikle
Pete's seat is very different from the one-piece seat in the older RT's but the added height that he will gain will help in fueling the tank.
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Very Active Member
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars (elongated handlebar bar slot to get more height)
Highway pegs bolted under floorboards.
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/15 boot access.
Kenda Kanine Fronts (Rears unavailable in Oz ATM).
RabbitWorks (Aussie) Dual Setting Stabiliser Bar (Lamonster links)
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round (setting 2 of 4 for pothole smoothing with improved handling)
Russell Daylong custom seat on order (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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