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  1. #1
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    Question Front Pulley R&R - can it be done without loosening belt tension?

    Question for someone with experience doing this:

    Can the Front Pulley be removed and installed without loosening belt tension?
    Shop manual labor is .5 hour for this proceedure. Wondering if there is a short cut to arrive in completing this operation in .5/hour.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2020 at 11:45 AM. Reason: This is a 'How do I?' not a 'How to:' DIY explanation....

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Big Arm's Avatar
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    No problem, Jack up the rear wheel till tension is off the lower shock bolt, remove the bolt, raise the Jack till the belt is loose enough to remove from front sprocket. Retourqe the front sprocket bolt when finished.

    ....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....

    ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
    the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....

    2008 GS.....PE # 2888

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Arm View Post
    No problem, Jack up the rear wheel till tension is off the lower shock bolt, remove the bolt, raise the Jack till the belt is loose enough to remove from front sprocket. Retourqe the front sprocket bolt when finished.
    Excellent

  4. #4
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Here's how I did it just a short while back.....
    With the bike on the floor and the the parking brake set, loosen the front pulley bolt.
    Release the parking brake.
    Then lift the rear wheel off the floor just enough so you can rotate it as you walk the belt off the rear pulley.
    When done with the front pulley, reverse the process to walk the belt back onto the rear pulley.
    Lower the bike, set the park brake, torque the front pulley bolt and you're done.
    P.S. Lube the splines with Moly Paste - not Moly lube.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  5. #5
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    Here's how I did it just a short while back.....
    With the bike on the floor and the the parking brake set, loosen the front pulley bolt.
    Release the parking brake.
    Then lift the rear wheel off the floor just enough so you can rotate it as you walk the belt off the rear pulley.
    When done with the front pulley, reverse the process to walk the belt back onto the rear pulley.
    Lower the bike, set the park brake, torque the front pulley bolt and you're done.
    P.S. Lube the splines with Moly Paste - not Moly lube.
    All the important details; succinct. I especially like the belt on, brake on, on the ground tightening part -- minimize stress on transmission.
    Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
    Spyder Tryke Pylot

  6. #6
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    �� Ordered new pulley and bolt....I have a 2019 F3L built in 2018. Figured that a newer design pulley and higher bolt torque should resolve any future issues......I believe in preventative maintenance. Red dust is starting to show. My trips pulling a trailer are in excess of 1k.

  7. #7
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    you mean you werent having any problems no rust dust

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    I retorqued my 2015 at 10,000 miles and now have 21,000 and no problem- I have a spockett and bolt ready .
    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  9. #9
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    Yes, red dust is starting to show.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerchris1270 View Post
    Yes, red dust is starting to show.
    If there is evidence of red dust, the pulley splines have worn. The pulley should be replaced or if reusing, accomplish the LocTite method for reinstallation. If replacing a worn pulley with a new pulley, reassembled wet with Moly Lube or Moly Paste, not Moly based grease.

    Regarding walking the drive belt off the pulley, before accomplishing this, realize that the Spyder uses a carbon fibre type belt and not a Kevlar or other more flexible fibre type belt. Manufacturers are very specific about not walking the tensioned belt off the pulley as fibre damage may occur, rendering the belt as scrap or inducing early failure. Far better to remove the shock bolt if you are set up to do so.

    Consider also to lubricate the bolt flange with Moly. While many have posted the increased torque is in reference to better securing the pulley, I differ on this opinion. I suspect that when comparing the early style 2 piece bolt / washer setup to the current large flange bolt, the added friction of the large flanges drag when tightening must be overcome by a higher setting on the torque wrench, otherwise the torque would be erroneously low. Lubricate the bolt flange and use a quality torque wrench. Even consider dropping the torque setting by 5% to account for the reduced drag when torquing.

    All the best however you resolve your worn pulley / red dust concerns.
    2014 RTS , Nippon Denso plugs no Pearl White

  11. #11
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    I believe most manufacturers of timing/cogged belts recommend against "walking" the belt off mainly when the pully
    has a flange. Neither pulley on the Spyder has a flange, so it really shouldn't be an issue. Done carefully, it shouldn't
    be a problem.

    Personally I would loosen the the tension, because it may change due to new pulley vs old pulley. Not that big of a
    deal, and it would need to be checked anyway, even if you didn't loosen the tension.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  12. #12
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possible View Post
    I believe most manufacturers of timing/cogged belts recommend against "walking" the belt off mainly when the pully
    has a flange. Neither pulley on the Spyder has a flange, so it really shouldn't be an issue. Done carefully, it shouldn't
    be a problem.

    Personally I would loosen the the tension, because it may change due to new pulley vs old pulley. Not that big of a
    deal, and it would need to be checked anyway, even if you didn't loosen the tension.
    Obviously you would have serious concerns walking a tooth belt over a pulley flange.

    The concern here is not focused on whether or not the belt can be removed and reinstalled by walking the belt off and on, simply the materials used to make the cords in the belt. Carbon fibre filaments are far less forgiving than other filaments in regards to untypical loads.

    The persons endorsing walking the belt off then on have their opinions. Considering the cost of a new belt, plus if the belt fails some distance from home, the risk vs reward of not releasing the tension is up to each person accomplishing the task. Add to this the frugalness of many Spyder owners that post here, the MSRP of cutting corners may not be on sale when you need it.

    All the best to BikerChris and Merry Christmas to all of you.
    2014 RTS , Nippon Denso plugs no Pearl White

  13. #13
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    Shop manual calls for loosening tension of belt when removing......
    Shop manual labor rate shows .5 hour to replace front pulley. Seems low considering what’s involved.

  14. #14
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    i have to ask do you let the bike shift down or do you do it

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Tension on the belt can be adjusted with a KrickitII (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a coupla 36mm wrenches which also work to get the oil filter off.

    and a coupla wrenches.
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  16. #16
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Re my suggestion to walk the belt of the rear pulley....
    I did not realize the belt was not Kevlar reinforced. All my experience with belt drives were with Kevlar belts. Good to learn about the Spyder's belts. Thanks.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

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