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  1. #1
    Active Member spyder01's Avatar
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    Default Front sprocket access

    Has anyone figured out a way to make the small black cover that blocks getting at the front sprocket on an RT easier to remove?It really isn't held on by much at all but to get it off you need to pull several other panels off.If it was easier then checking the sprocket and belt or tensioner would be so easy.Maybe some dzus fasteners or quick release setup.
    2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder01 View Post
    Has anyone figured out a way to make the small black cover that blocks getting at the front sprocket on an RT easier to remove?It really isn't held on by much at all but to get it off you need to pull several other panels off.If it was easier then checking the sprocket and belt or tensioner would be so easy.Maybe some dzus fasteners or quick release setup.
    Why, simpler to accomplish without modifications some preventative maintenance. Gain access, remove the pulley, inspect, reuse if serviceable, install onto wetted splines and reassemble.

    Simply not worth risking possible damage to the countershaft itself.

  3. #3
    Active Member spyder01's Avatar
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    Why,because I like to keep a close eye on that rear drive area.Ive been off road a fair amount and Ive gotten mud in there plus I have a tensioner which I want to inspect the roller from time to time.This area seems to be one that gets talked about a lot on this forum so if I could remove this cover a little easier that would help.Plus I dont like to leave things alone,Ive had a good time fiddling around with my Spyder.
    2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE

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    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Quick question here about front sprocket inspection. I've read all the inspection threads, I'm comfortable with that. How about re-installation? Talking the new upgraded torque value of 111 FT/Lbs 4. How do you lock the shaft from turning? Do you let the belt take the stress and the parking brake keep the shaft from turning? Is there a pulley locking tool? I haven't seen much mention of this specific thing, any help would be appreciated.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder01 View Post
    Why,because I like to keep a close eye on that rear drive area.Ive been off road a fair amount and Ive gotten mud in there plus I have a tensioner which I want to inspect the roller from time to time.This area seems to be one that gets talked about a lot on this forum so if I could remove this cover a little easier that would help.Plus I dont like to leave things alone,Ive had a good time fiddling around with my Spyder.
    Access for removing mud or debris, or inspecting a tensioner is understandable.

    Pretty easy mod. Leave enough edge and trim out the inspection cover size you prefer. Install a doubler flange behind your cutout perimeter. Secure that and fasten the access cover last.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by h0gr1der View Post
    Quick question here about front sprocket inspection. I've read all the inspection threads, I'm comfortable with that. How about re-installation? Talking the new upgraded torque value of 111 FT/Lbs 4. How do you lock the shaft from turning? Do you let the belt take the stress and the parking brake keep the shaft from turning? Is there a pulley locking tool? I haven't seen much mention of this specific thing, any help would be appreciated.
    I have changed out several sprockets. Once you get the belt back on, and the rear shock re-mounted, I slid a broom handle through the rear wheel and let it clamp to the frame when torquing the front bolt. Also, look up the new paste to put on the splines. It transfers torque better, but I forget what it is called. I bought a tiny little tube of it. There has been a lot of questions on keeping the spline dry, using high temp grease, etc. but BRP finally put out a bulletin said to use gear grease. Maybe someone here can remember what it is called.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevencovert View Post
    I have changed out several sprockets. Once you get the belt back on, and the rear shock re-mounted, I slid a broom handle through the rear wheel and let it clamp to the frame when torquing the front bolt. Also, look up the new paste to put on the splines. It transfers torque better, but I forget what it is called. I bought a tiny little tube of it. There has been a lot of questions on keeping the spline dry, using high temp grease, etc. but BRP finally put out a bulletin said to use gear grease. Maybe someone here can remember what it is called.
    The info I saw called out a specific Kluberpaste. Forgot the exact number but researched it. Seemed pretty basic in regards to performance.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    h0gr1der - to answer your question, I applied the park brake, chocked the rear wheel and torqued the bolt to 110ft lb. I put Molykote paste on the splines, taking particular care to keep it from transferring to the inner & outer pulley faces upon installation. That was about 8 years ago and all good since. Just do it!
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

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