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  1. #1
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    Question How do I reset my parking brake fault light on my 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS?

    I have fixed my parking brake cable, but the warning light will not stop flashing. Everything is working properly. I have disconnected and reconnected the battery to see if that would clear the warning light... no luck.. any other suggestions?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Is there a fault code? Press mode, set and turn cancel buttons. All at the same time. The codes will appear on the screen. Post here and someone will look it up.

    Also is the parking brake switch working correctly on the parking brake cam. Sometimes they get bent or knocked out of place. Since you fixed the cable that is very possible.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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    I believe we have fixed it. The parking brake itself appears to be working properly. I have tested it on my driveway which has a steeper grade at the road. When I check for codes, by pushing mode, set and signal button to display fault codes, none come up. Yet the parking brake light keeps flashing and the message appears on the screen.

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderweber3 View Post
    I believe we have fixed it. The parking brake itself appears to be working properly. I have tested it on my driveway which has a steeper grade at the road. When I check for codes, by pushing mode, set and signal button to display fault codes, none come up. Yet the parking brake light keeps flashing and the message appears on the screen.
    It will be likely be the parking brake limit switch on the front pulley. It's located under the body work on the right side. Near your right knee when you are sitting on it. Take the tupperware off and take a look.
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  5. #5
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    It will be likely be the parking brake limit switch on the front pulley. It's located under the body work on the right side. Near your right knee when you are sitting on it. Take the tupperware off and take a look.
    The micro switch is activated by a little length of shiny springy metal strip thingy (I think that's the correct technical term?! ) the free end of which runs around the rim of the pulley wheel as the pulley rotateswhen the park brake is applied. When the park brake is fully set, that free end should sit on the top of the raised tab on the rim of the pulley wheel. It's that 'raising' bit that activates the micro switch that turns the park brake light on, the alarm off, & the subsequent lowering as the pulley rotates back that then tells everything that the park brake is now off again. But if the pulley has rotated too far, as can happen if your park brake is applied with no brake pads fitted, then when the park brake is park disengaged after the first over-rotation, the returning pulley rotation can bend that shiny springy metal strip thingy and bend it so that the end will remain well clear of the tab all the time, so from there on in it'll never activate the switch any more, so the 'no park brake set' alarm sounds every time you turn the Spyder off!!

    With any luck, all you'll need to do to fix that alarm is to carefully straighten out that shiny springy metal strip thingy so that it lighty contacts the rim of the pulley wheel when the park brake is off, allowing the end to follow that rim as the pulley rotates, & then to end up sitting on the raised tab bit once the park brake is fully activated. That'll let the micro switch once again turn the park brake light on & stop the 'you forgot to put the park brake on' alarm from sounding whenever you shut the Spyder down! Try not to apply any force to the micro switch end of the shiny springy metal strip thingy as you do the straightening bit tho - too much pressure on that switch end could break the switch open, & then you'd have no real choice but to source & fit a new switch!!

    It is really a lot easier to do than it sounds, and hopefully it'll help having some idea of what you're looking for & trying to achieve rather than just guessing that's what you need to do. Over to you Spyderweber3, & Good Luck!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-29-2019 at 06:05 PM.
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    Thanks a big bunch! We will give that a try tomorrow morning! I'll let you know what the outcome is.

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    Thanks everyone! We did what was suggested by Billybovine and Peter Aawen and yes... it solved my problem! Everything is back to normal! I really appreciated your help! It saved me lots of money and avoided a costly repair at the dealer! Have a great day all!

  8. #8
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    When I started up my 2011 RT Spyder the parking brake light stayed on after pressing the release button. The bike would not move so the brake was not releasing. After reading the above string and some others I removed the right side Tupperware and found everything on the front end including micro switches seemed to be working ok. Same in the rear at the brake assembly. After playing with it some I suspected it might be working and sure enough, the bike brake was releasing and the bike would move. The Brake Failure light is still on. I tried the suggestion for clearing the fault several times to no avail. I then tried the code check suggested and came up with C-1282. Any help would be appreciated.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50SRIDER View Post
    When I started up my 2011 RT Spyder the parking brake light stayed on after pressing the release button. The bike would not move so the brake was not releasing. After reading the above string and some others I removed the right side Tupperware and found everything on the front end including micro switches seemed to be working ok. Same in the rear at the brake assembly. After playing with it some I suspected it might be working and sure enough, the bike brake was releasing and the bike would move. The Brake Failure light is still on. I tried the suggestion for clearing the fault several times to no avail. I then tried the code check suggested and came up with C-1282. Any help would be appreciated.
    Code is for low pressure, double ck fluids & if has not been flushed in 2yr could use fresh

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  10. #10
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    Thanks, I'll flush the brake system and let you know. Might be a few weeks.

  11. #11
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    I did flush the brake system. It did not solve the parking brake light problem. I did however determine the parking brake system was working OK.
    While inspecting the rear brake I discovered the rear pads were looking very thin so I replaced them. All is back together now but the parking brake pulley on the only moves a few degrees. It does not rotate nearly as far as before. I believe this probably needs to be resolved before I get back to the parking brake light. Any ideas /help will be greatly appreciated.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50SRIDER View Post
    I did flush the brake system. It did not solve the parking brake light problem. I did however determine the parking brake system was working OK.
    While inspecting the rear brake I discovered the rear pads were looking very thin so I replaced them. All is back together now but the parking brake pulley on the only moves a few degrees. It does not rotate nearly as far as before. I believe this probably needs to be resolved before I get back to the parking brake light. Any ideas /help will be greatly appreciated.
    Does the cable move freely ? Might require releasing from one or both ends, move back & forth by hand; spraying with cable lube occasionally. The movement should work lube into & along the cable sheath. *Sometimes just spraying either end is not enough*

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    After changing the rear pads with fresh pads the parking brake does not travel as far as with the old pads. I just changed the pads on my 2011RT. Have you tried picking up your brake lever. Your brake switch could be sticking. Just a thought. Bruce
    RTS 2011 SM5, 78,000 miles


  14. #14
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    C1282 code means that the brake pedal travelled far enough to actuate the low pressure switch, WITHOUT there being adequate system pressure. For whatever reason, BRP designed that code to seal in and must be reset. If you think that you’ve got everything else squared away now, try the following;

    If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks.
    Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
    Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it. HARD.
    Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
    Only then release the brake pedal.
    The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.


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