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  1. #1
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

    Every so often I get questioned about doing a Canister-Ectomy on the V-Twin, 998cc versions of the Spyder. So I thought I'd detail it here in the hopes that it will help someone. This process removes both the Fuel Vapor Canister and the problematic Purge Valve (one is remove, the other incapacitated.

    While the Evap-Fuel Vapor Canister issues were more prominent on the earlier models. 2008-2012, this general procedure will also work on the later models. Done correctly, this will eliminate all fuel smells and the potential fire hazard that these present when not functioning properly. Plus, it will eliminate any issues with filling your fuel tank all the way to the top. This can give you up to 30+ miles extended range on your 998 Spyder, depending on how you are filling it now. There is a small triangle at the top of your fuel gauge. Most have never seen it because most have never actually filled their fuel tank. It is interesting that BRP has the 'Full Mark' on the gauge and then tells you not to fill it all the way up.

    Removing the vapor recovery canister system will also save you a little on maintenance costs.

    The diagram below is of the earlier 2008-2012 models. BRP made some minor modifications to this system on the 2013 and later models. But the major components are the same and the general Canister-Ectomy process applies. This is a simple and inexpensive modification.

    Referring to the diagram below. Once you remove the fuel vapor recovery canister located on the right side of the Spyder, behind the Tupperware (#21), you are left with 2 hoses, (#19 & #24). Hose #23 is just a vent to outside air and goes away with the canister.

    Taking care of Hose #24. This is your fuel tank vent hose, which is required. You need to route and zip tie this hose back along the right side frame to somewhere about mid rear fender. You want to route this vent hose (#3) upward from the fuel tank until it naturally begins to descend to the exit point. This will happen automatically if you follow the frame tube to the back. The existing hose is not long enough to get this far back so you will need to purchase an appropriately sized hose barb (Pictured Below) and another length of hose to extend it. These can be found at any auto parts or lawnmower shop. While you are there get a small fuel filter similar to the one pictured. I like the clear ones so you can see what is going on at the end of your vent hose, but virtually any version will do.

    Insert the fuel filter at the end of the fuel tank vent hose you've routed to the rear of your Spyder. Mount it horizontally as pictured. This will keep any foreign substance from entering the vent hose and will also serve to give you indication if any liquid fuel is being pushed through the vent hose as it will collect at the bottom of this filter. This will tell you if you have installed the vent hose correctly. You can clamp these fittings if you like. But it is not necessary. I did not clamp any of mine. A good tight fit is more than sufficient.

    Some have run this hose over the engine to the front of the Spyder, I am assuming with decent results. This may be a bit easier. However, I do not like the idea of running a fuel vapor hose over a hot engine to vent in front of the rider. If there are any fumes, or raw fuel, I would rather have it go out the back.

    Canister-Ectomy1.jpg Canilster-Ectomy2.jpg

    Taking care of Hose #19. This hose connects to your purge valve, (#18) and then to the intake side of your engine via hose (#22). There are a number of ways you can deal with this. I've found it easiest to simply put an appropriately sized, 1/2 long or so, bolt with some silicone sealer into hose (#19) leaving the rest of the system in place. But whatever you do, you will need to seal this system so no air can enter, either before or after the Purge Valve (#18). If you leave the purge valve in. It will still function (open and close). But will be rendered ineffective, which is the goal here.

    As always. You can hover you mouse pointer over a picture and it will enlarge for better detail.

    Canister-Ectomy.jpg
    Last edited by BajaRon; 04-11-2020 at 07:41 AM.
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Ron,
    Thanks for the clear and concise details.
    I have the parts and will be doing the canisterectomy
    along with my "Spring Service" later this week.
    Just needed a push to get me started.
    Cheers, David C.
    David C
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Default One more benefit

    My 2011 RTS developed a slight throttle surging when cruising. It wasn't serious, but very annoying. The Canisterectomy cured it 100%.
    2011 RTS
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  4. #4
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    If nothing else, doing this Canister-Ectomy will give you piece of mind. It will avoid any future issues and can solve some current problems. The smell is gone, the potential hazard is gone, and you can fill your fuel tank to the top without worry. Cheap, easy, and well worth the effort.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 10-05-2019 at 02:33 PM.
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Thanks .....

    Always good to have clear instructions for these changes. I know the question comes up from time to time and the twins are still out there....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  6. #6
    Very Active Member JerryB's Avatar
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    Hi Ron,

    Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

    I just finished doing this to my '08 GS.

    Purge Valve Line)

    I simply cut it off right where it entered the canister. I took a 5/16 bolt, wrapped it with teflon tape as used in plumbing, ran the bolt in & secured with a worm drive clamp.

    I then secured it to the frame with two zip ties; in white in this photo:

    Cani-i-2.jpg


    Fuel Filter)

    You will note in the above photo that I moved the line from the fuel tank upward so that the line is routed above where it goes into the fuel tank.

    In the lower left of the above photo is where I secured the fuel line to the frame. I use white zip ties whenever doing things like this as they are easy to see/find if I should need to remove them in the future.

    Here is the filter almost vertical:

    Cani-i-3.jpg


    Line Routing)

    Here where I terminated it. It is turned down slightly so any gas should readily drip onto the ground.

    Cani-i-4.jpg

    Jerry Baumchen

    PS) This is the fuel filter that I bought. It comes with various size fittings for different sizes of hose. I used 1/4 fittings & 1/4 hose. It is a Mr. Gasket product, #9706; bought at a local auto parts store:

    Cani-c.jpg


    Cani-d.jpg

    And by installing the filter directly into the line from the gas tank I did not need this:

    a.jpg
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member JerryB's Avatar
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    Hi folks,

    Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

    One additional bit of info. I replaced my fuel filter at the same time as I did the Canister-ectomy. One thing to know is that the clamp that holds the fuel filter in place does not have a captive nut on the back side.

    If you simply remove the bolt that you can see:

    Cani-i-1.JPG

    the nut will fall away; quite possibly in one of those black voids, never to be seen again.

    I used a 10 mm box end wrench to hold the nut & then VERY carefully removed it.

    Jerry Baumchen
    'I'll never forget what's her name.'

    'Things are more like they are now than they ever have been before.' Dwight Eisenhower

    2008 GS SE-5

  8. #8
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    All good posts.

    I think the procedure is basically set with a variance or two. I put my fuel filter between Hose #24 and a hose that was already routed underneath the Spyder vs the fuel filter at the end of #24. its all zip tied to the frame and away from the engine. I am sure it will work just the same. So far the surging/bucking and gas smell are eliminated. Thank you to everyone, past and present, for the instructional posts.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the write-up BajaRon, just had mine done.
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  10. #10
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    Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder
    2015 Canam Spyder F3-S SE6
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhy View Post
    Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder
    Just a heads - up ….. REMOVING the cannister Might make your Spyder Un-inspectable …… Go to my Albums , I posted pics - labeled " Gas smell Fix " there is a written explanation ( if you enlarge the pic ) of how to cure the problem and leave the cannister in …… Mike

  12. #12
    Very Active Member JerryB's Avatar
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    Hi donhy,

    Re: Is vasectomy just as easy ?

    Actually, much easier; I did not have to do any work.

    Jerry Baumchen
    'I'll never forget what's her name.'

    'Things are more like they are now than they ever have been before.' Dwight Eisenhower

    2008 GS SE-5

  13. #13
    Member philbtv's Avatar
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    06AAAA71-F142-4D42-8F4B-DF8EACD73B1A.jpg
    Hey look! I can see the little triangle at the top of the fuel gage-that I never saw until I did my canisterectomy. Another added bonus! Thanks Ron and Jerry for all the help!
    2008 Can Am Spyder GS
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  14. #14
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    Does anyone recall the diameter info for hose #24 and the coupler? I want to make sure I pick up the proper supplies for extending it down the frame a bit (as instructed).
    It would be nice to have the right stuff on hand before I begin.

    Thanks in advance!

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    Hi,

    I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

    I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

    Sergiu.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-16-2020 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Fixed quote display

  16. #16
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sergiu1 View Post
    Hi,

    I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

    I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

    Sergiu.
    I recommend running the vent hose up along the right frame tube (sitting on the Spyder) to the back and terminate under the rear fender. The vent tube originates near the right front of the tank. If you have any fumes at all they will exit behind you rather than in front of you. And you avoid being anywhere near the engine, as you will if you go forward. This also keeps the entire vent tube above the fuel tank except for where you go downhill at the very end. This way there is no possibility of any fuel pooling along the way. I put a clear, lawnmower fuel filter (like the one pictured below) at the end of the vent hose so that I can check to see if any liquid fuel is going out and to keep anything from getting in. This has been done many ways. But I still think this is the better way to go.

    FuelFilter.jpg
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  17. #17
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
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    Thanks for the write up on this, definitely something I need to do before the riding season kicks in full time.
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



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    Active Member jarvis's Avatar
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    I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

    Thanks, Bob

  19. #19
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
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    Doing this change this week since I have it skinned for the new air intake and filter. Get it done since its down, than I can start on the Xenon light kit, and handle bar risers..
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



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  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krakum1967 View Post
    Doing this change this week since I have it skinned for the new air intake and filter. Get it done since its down, than I can start on the Xenon light kit, and handle bar risers..
    I accomplished the fix a bit differently - I didn't remove the cannister, I just routed the hoses so that NO gas could ever enter the cannister …. if there is some gas in the cannister now, it will evaporate.....and as long as no more is going in any issues will cease …. I have good pics and written explanations …. in my album of the same name …. good luck …. Mike

  21. #21
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarvis View Post
    I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

    Thanks, Bob
    All Spyders have the evap canister. It is a federal, nation wide, requirement. Sorry, I do not remember the vent hose size. But 1/4" is probably in the ball park.
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    Active Member jarvis's Avatar
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    Thanks Ron. While I am in that area with all the tupperware removed, is there anything else I can look at, remove, modify?

    Bob

  23. #23
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
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    I finally did this job, kept putting it off, and that was dumb, I can run the trike in the car port now and not get gas stoned, I think part of me will miss that, but its really not good for you, and doesnt set a good example for neighborhood kids either....

    Anyway, I had a fuel filter exactly like the one pictured hanging in the shop, and I have moved it to 3 different houses and shops now, its been 8 years of "I will use it someday", piad 95 cents for that thing...I finally used just it, and the extended hose. I use the filter as the joiner tube, and I ran forward, I had enough hose to vent it through the same holes as the radiator drains, but it runs way up high on the high frame way before that, not gonna get any drips there, and its forward of the engine, and goes out the tube hole for the radiator reservoir drain.

    OMG, the SMELL IS GONE....its like a BB King song playing in the back ground, substitute thrill for smell.....

    Thanks for this guys, its works for sure, and yep, I see the top corner thingy in the gauge now, and it filled a bit more than usual I think, I will have mileage tests later to prove it. THE SMELL IS GONE!!!!!!!
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



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  24. #24
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    That's good news in any language (or song)!
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  25. #25
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarvis View Post
    I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

    Thanks, Bob
    I did it on my old 2008 Commiefornia edition and it was the same. And, I will add that it DID make a big difference. DO IT!
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6



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