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  1. #26
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    Default Ultimate Trailer

    I'm looking to buy a trailer to haul my 2017 Spyder RT and had more-or-less settled on the "Ultimate" trailer because I planned on storing the Spyder on the trailer inside my garage, as they describe on their web site. The trailer uses an air suspension that can be raised up or lowered to the floor. You put the trailer in your garage with the back facing the garage door, then lower the deck to the floor and park the Spyder on it. This minimizes the space needed for both Spyder and trailer, which is pretty important to me. When you want to trailer the Spyder, you move the Spyder out, use an air pump to raise the deck again, move the trailer out and attach to the tow vehicle, lower the floor to load the Spyder on it again, raise it up, and go.

    The problem with their trailer is the width. Their web site refers to their Spyder trailer as the OHT3 model and that's what they used for their quote. Thankfully I asked the dimensions before I committed to buy, because the overall width of the OHT3 is 101". It wouldn't fit through my 8' (96") garage door. So, if you want one of these trailers, make sure it will fit inside your garage door!

    When I informed the manufacturer of the issue, they sent me a spec sheet offering an OHT2 trailer that is only 89" wide and thus fits through the garage door. The OHT3 has a bed that's 75" wide whereas the OHT2's bed is only 63" wide. But why isn't the OHT2 their "Spyder" trailer? A Spyder should fit within a 63" bed, shouldn't it? My manual says my Spyder is 61.9" wide, and I measured my Spyder in the garage and my tape measure says it's only 61.0" wide. It's a bit of a squeeze but it ought to work. The Razor trailer is 64" wide, which is hardly any different. So why would the Ultimate people list the 75" OHT3 trailer as their "Spyder" trailer when the OHT2 is the better fit? I'm a bit spooked. Am I missing something? I can't afford a $5000 mistake (includes $1000 shipping). Any thoughts?

    Other than the high price and size issue, the only other drawback of the Ultimate trailer that I know of is that it only comes in white gelcoat. If you want it painted, you have to get it done locally.

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsimion View Post
    I'm looking to buy a trailer to haul my 2017 Spyder RT and had more-or-less settled on the "Ultimate" trailer because I planned on storing the Spyder on the trailer inside my garage, as they describe on their web site. The trailer uses an air suspension that can be raised up or lowered to the floor. You put the trailer in your garage with the back facing the garage door, then lower the deck to the floor and park the Spyder on it. This minimizes the space needed for both Spyder and trailer, which is pretty important to me. When you want to trailer the Spyder, you move the Spyder out, use an air pump to raise the deck again, move the trailer out and attach to the tow vehicle, lower the floor to load the Spyder on it again, raise it up, and go.

    The problem with their trailer is the width. Their web site refers to their Spyder trailer as the OHT3 model and that's what they used for their quote. Thankfully I asked the dimensions before I committed to buy, because the overall width of the OHT3 is 101". It wouldn't fit through my 8' (96") garage door. So, if you want one of these trailers, make sure it will fit inside your garage door!

    When I informed the manufacturer of the issue, they sent me a spec sheet offering an OHT2 trailer that is only 89" wide and thus fits through the garage door. The OHT3 has a bed that's 75" wide whereas the OHT2's bed is only 63" wide. But why isn't the OHT2 their "Spyder" trailer? A Spyder should fit within a 63" bed, shouldn't it? My manual says my Spyder is 61.9" wide, and I measured my Spyder in the garage and my tape measure says it's only 61.0" wide. It's a bit of a squeeze but it ought to work. The Razor trailer is 64" wide, which is hardly any different. So why would the Ultimate people list the 75" OHT3 trailer as their "Spyder" trailer when the OHT2 is the better fit? I'm a bit spooked. Am I missing something? I can't afford a $5000 mistake (includes $1000 shipping). Any thoughts?

    Other than the high price and size issue, the only other drawback of the Ultimate trailer that I know of is that it only comes in white gelcoat. If you want it painted, you have to get it done locally.

    63" wide gives you a 1/2" on each side of the front wheels. That is rather tight. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    63" wide gives you a 1/2" on each side of the front wheels. That is rather tight. Tom
    I agree, but I could have lived with that in order to get the 89" width that would fit through my garage door. The Ultimate company told me, however, the tie-downs would nevertheless interfere and make it impossible to use with the Spyder. They did offer to make another version that would have been 92" wide (with a 66" bed) that would have worked with the Spyder. The problem was that the size of the opening of my 8' garage door is actually only 91-7/8" wide and the trailer was 92" wide. No go. It would have to go outside, which I didn't want to do. The moral of this story is that anyone considering the Ultimate trailer needs to be careful with the width, at least if you plan to move it in and out of a single-car garage door. This is true of most Spyder trailers according to my research.

    I finally called the Droptail people and ordered one of their trailers. It, too, would be an inch or two too wide for the garage door. However, it's a folding trailer that I can store vertically behind the Spyder and it has casters to move it around. Since I can take it through the door at an angle, the width isn't an issue. Or, I could turn it sideways, unfold it and move it out through the other side of the garage. At least the Droptail gives me some flexibility. It didn't hurt that the Droptail also cost a good $1200 less than the Ultimate and didn't require paint. I guess I will find out when I get it in about 8-10 days.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Mike,
    I just realized something:
    Once Tom & Ali set up camp in Florida: we'll have a place to stay down there!!
    I've got to remind him to put a 30 amp RV service out near his driveway!
    Bob,
    Unless their plans changed, they are headed to their FL place tomorrow.
    Mike
    2015 Pearl White RT Limited

  5. #30
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    Now that you've had the Aluma 638 trailer for a while, how has it worked out for you? Would you buy the same trailer again?

  6. #31
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    Are you pleased with the trailer after having it for a few months? I am looking at getting one but I need review input. Hope to year from you. My email is fweiss-wa@nwi.net

  7. #32
    Active Member Texas Al's Avatar
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    george123 Where did you get the trailer?
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-09-2019 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Fixed previous post!

  8. #33
    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    I remember, vaguely, a company that made trailers that the whole bed lowered to the ground and you ride up, tie it down, then raise the bed up and go. Anyone remember the company name?

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Zip's Avatar
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    2010 RTSM5


  10. #35
    Active Member pjweimer's Avatar
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    https://www.theultimatetrailers.com
    I've had one of these the 5 years. It is perfect for me. From central Ohio to Florida, to Arizona it preformed without a flaw.
    2014 RT Ltd Silver Platinum Satin, Ultimate Seat, rider and passenger backrests, Vented Windshield, Adjustable Side Wind Deflectors, Chrome Tri Axis Handlebars with GPS Support, Trailer Hitch Kit, RT-622 Trailer Silver Platinum Satin, Stebil Air Horn, BajaRon's Sway Bar, Spyderpops Bumpskid bike and Trailer, R/T grills, SpyderSisters Front Trunk Pockets, SpyderSisters Sunshade, Spyderflaps Mud Flap, many TricLED lights

  11. #36
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    Guys, all of these look good! I had a local company make me one. It is 6x10 with a bi-folding rear gate. I had them put 14 inches wheels and tires on it with a under swung axle (3500 lbs) and it works good, with one exception! I have to put some 2x6 inch boards on each side to load and unload it, so the front end doesn't hit the wire mess gate! A 6x12 would give you more room! Also I put E-tracks on each side which makes tie down a lot easier! Sam's Club has some good looking trailers on sale for about $1295, but you would have the same problem of the front end hitting the gate when loading and unloading!

  12. #37
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    Razor is one of them

  13. #38
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    I went with the Aluma MC210, and it works great! Ramp is 57" long and slides in under the bed. Never an issue with nose clearance. Made for 2 regular cycles, so has 8 rings set into the bed for tiedowns.
    A bit spendy at $3,500, but I would buy it again.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderJerry View Post
    I purchased an Aluma 638 trailer this year. I made wheel chocks that I drive onto to lift fruck over the frontg of the trailer bed and gives clearance to not bounce on it. It is 63 inches by 8 foot bed. It weighs 390 and cost a little over $1600 with spare tire. I pull it with my Ford Edge and you hardly know its back there.
    What model is this?

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by MNF3 View Post
    I went with the Aluma MC210, and it works great! Ramp is 57" long and slides in under the bed. Never an issue with nose clearance. Made for 2 regular cycles, so has 8 rings set into the bed for tiedowns.
    A bit spendy at $3,500, but I would buy it again.
    What Spyder do you have? I don’t think the MC210 is wide enough for the RT.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderJerry View Post
    I purchased an Aluma 638 trailer this year. I made wheel chocks that I drive onto to lift fruck over the frontg of the trailer bed and gives clearance to not bounce on it. It is 63 inches by 8 foot bed. It weighs 390 and cost a little over $1600 with spare tire. I pull it with my Ford Edge and you hardly know its back there.
    How do you tie the Spyder down? And, how did you make the wheel chocks?

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by gianfri View Post
    What Spyder do you have? I don’t think the MC210 is wide enough for the RT.
    I have a 2016 F3T, and still have about a foot on each side. RT would be no problem.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbarrett85 View Post
    Ok so for the $$ what is the best and safest trailer for hauling my spyder if and when I need to. I am currently looking at the Stinger Can Am Spyder Trailer.

    You can see it here: https://www.redlinestands.com/catalo...trailer-p-2653

    I hope it is a good on, because its one im looking at pretty hard. Let me know if there may be a better one for a good price.

    Oh and my tow max is 1600 #s, so im limited to a lightweight trailer.


    rather get it direct from stinger, it's cheaper and there's no shipping charge.

  19. #44
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    Default Loading Spyder

    Quote Originally Posted by ChicoFowler View Post
    I got a Bear Track all aluminum 65" x 120" - about 400 pounds. I have a 4 cyl car and needed something a light trailor. The Stinger is a good alternative, but without modification, you can only haul a Spyder. The Bear Track has a bi-fold gate, but with a lighted bump skid on my bike, I had to make ramps in order NOT to crush the skid getting on. Got a 2 x 12 x 8, set of ramp plates for about $50 and I'm in business. Cost for me was reasonable - they run new from 2100 to 2800, depending on dealer.
    What do you mean by ramp plates, how do they work?if possible take picture please. We bought the Beat Track 76 X 120 but can’t load a Spyder
    Last edited by barb22c; 06-07-2019 at 02:15 PM.

  20. #45
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    I didn't think my Spyder would fit on an 8 ft (96 in) trailer as the specs say my F3 is 104 inches long. But you may have proved me wrong!. With the right setup this may work.

  21. #46
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    Something like this that you can lay over or extend the ramp to decrease the angle.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2239_200622239

    OR DIY with these and a 2-12 https://www.homedepot.com/p/CargoSma...3006/301705453

  22. #47
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  23. #48
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    Hey Bob, You only have 92,000 more replies than I have. I better pick up the pace!

  24. #49
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    Review of Drop-Tail Trailer: Pros: Bought this last October, have only had time to use it once to carry the Spyder. Very easy to load, my RT doesn't scrape at all, it's a perfect fit, and there are lots of tie-down points. It's also flat so you can use it for other things as needed. As modified, it's also very easy to move around.

    Cons: Nothing holds up the tongue, it just rests on the ground. The trailer is steel and fairly heavy. I about got a back strain trying to lift that tongue to hitch it the first time. The trailer is also nearly impossible to back up -- it's very short and therefore extremely sensitive to tow vehicle steering inputs, far more so than a boat trailer. It's even worse if the Spyder isn't aboard because you also can't see where you're backing. The solution to these problems is a swivel jack with a caster. This thing is grrrreat! Drop-Tail doesn't sell this, God knows why - I got mine from etrailer.com. This attaches to the pipe mount on the trailer and lets me crank the tongue up and down while the caster lets me move the trailer around very easily. So easily, in fact, that I don't even bother backing the trailer up, I just unload the Spyder, attach the swivel jack/caster, then detach the trailer and push it up my driveway (uphill) where it needs to go. This is 1000 times easier than trying to back it up. Unfortunately the swivel jack/caster does have to be removed when the Drop-Tail is actually hitched - there simply is no room to fold up the swivel jack like you'd do with a similar device on a boat trailer.

    For those who want to fold the Drop-Tail - it's not that hard to fold up the tail. That will save you some horizontal storage space. Folding it up vertically is a lot bigger deal. It's definitely a two-man job and they'd better be strong men because this thing is darned heavy. If you plan to store it vertically inside your garage, better check your ceiling height because it's not short when vertical according to their specs. Because of this, I opted to store my Drop-Tail outside horizontally with the tail folded and a tarp over it. When tarping it, I had to build a wood structure to put underneath because water was pooling on the tarp due to the trailer design (yes, it rains in Las Vegas).

    Another "con" is quality. On my first trip, both turn signals and one brake light failed. Drop-Tail was no help at all. I took the trailer to U-Haul and their tech quickly discovered that not one, not two, but THREE wires were not properly attached at the factory and were hanging loose. One wire had not even been stripped properly. The trailer should never have left the factory like this. All in all, I'd say both the problem and Drop-Tail's response were an embarrassment to American manufacturing.

  25. #50
    Very Active Member Jim&Teresa's Avatar
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    From one of my previous post.... +1 on Droptail Trailer....We have pulled it on long trips, i.e. to Utah and to Florida loaded with no issues. We did add a higher 20" stone guard, hitch jack, spare tire, etc....folds nicely in garage just ahead of our two bikes.

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1313704
    Happy and safe rydin'
    2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14

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