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Thread: Need Help

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    Active Member ornerydog7's Avatar
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    Default Need Help

    2011 RTL / SE5 having issues. Idles roughly at start up then smoothes out for approximately 7 - 10 minutes before shutting off. Showing codes P2279 an P0106. Would like to hear from the group before taking to the dealer.
    2011 RT LTD /MODS: Seal Floorboards, Elkas, SpyderPops Bump Skid and Block off plate, HMT Brake light, BajaRon's sway bar, Heim Links, Diamond R's passenger armrest, Utopia driver backrest

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    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
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    P2279 is intake air system leak & P0106 is Manifold absolute pressure circuit range/ performance. Not sure what the fix is though.



    2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl

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    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    Could be the vacuum hoses around the throttle body. They suffer from heat, crack & you get air leaks causing rough running.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Yep, if you havent replaced to 2 hoses. They are way over due. I just did our 2011 RTS last week. They are the 2 red hoses in the pics. I used the napa lines.





    And this is what my stock lines looked like from an 2011 RTS w/ 15k miles





    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    Last edited by M109Dreamer; 02-09-2017 at 11:04 PM.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default ALSO.....

    Check the intake boots/manifolds for the throttle body. They do the same thing but start with the hoses shown above. Quick check for the manifolds is the Rev the engine and spray WD40 around them. If the rpm's change they are leaking and high temperature silicone will be a temporary fix till you can change them...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5

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    Active Member ornerydog7's Avatar
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    M109Dreamer - thanks for the info. Is this on the right or left side?
    2011 RT LTD /MODS: Seal Floorboards, Elkas, SpyderPops Bump Skid and Block off plate, HMT Brake light, BajaRon's sway bar, Heim Links, Diamond R's passenger armrest, Utopia driver backrest

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    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    The hoses are on the left side. You can get to them without taking the air box off, but it is tight. How many miles on you bike? If it is time for spark plugs and wires, take off the air box. Change the air filter while you are there.

    Get the plugs and wires from BajaRon.
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    Default Vacuum Hises

    So, I have found that my front hose is definitely cracked wide open and the other one has sura e cracks. The back hose looks like it is easy to replace; however, the front one is a pain. Do you have to loosen the Bosh Controller to make it easier to replace the front hose or is there some other way. Do I have to remove the air box?
    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Yep, if you havent replaced to 2 hoses. They are way over due. I just did our 2011 RTS last week. They are the 2 red hoses in the pics. I used the napa lines.





    And this is what my stock lines looked like from an 2011 RTS w/ 15k miles





    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    When you replace the hoses: use high quality silicon hose of the same size. It'll outlast the bike!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigal1951 View Post
    So, I have found that my front hose is definitely cracked wide open and the other one has sura e cracks. The back hose looks like it is easy to replace; however, the front one is a pain. Do you have to loosen the Bosh Controller to make it easier to replace the front hose or is there some other way. Do I have to remove the air box?
    You might need a needle nose pliers to pull the old hose off. If it still wont budge use a knife to slice the side of the old hose at the fitting. Use the old hose as a pattern to get the exact length when you cut the new replacement to length. It's not as difficult as it seems.

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigal1951 View Post
    So, I have found that my front hose is definitely cracked wide open and the other one has sura e cracks. The back hose looks like it is easy to replace; however, the front one is a pain. Do you have to loosen the Bosh Controller to make it easier to replace the front hose or is there some other way. Do I have to remove the air box?
    Sorry, for the late response I'm not on very much anymore since SL doesn't support TapaTalk. You don't have to remove anything, just either cut the old ones off or what I did was twist the lines to brake the seal and then they just pulled straight off. When you do replace them you will want to make sure that you use the same length of tubing. I just took the old ones off and measured those and then just cut the new tubing to the same length.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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    Where did you get that air filter assembly from? Do you have the brand and part number?

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    K&N air filter. Go to their website, order it. NAPA has the vacuum lines in silicone.
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dg110270 View Post
    Where did you get that air filter assembly from? Do you have the brand and part number?
    Get the kit here

    http://spyderstore.com/index.php?rou...ory&path=59_68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    The hoses are on the left side. You can get to them without taking the air box off, but it is tight. How many miles on you bike? If it is time for spark plugs and wires, take off the air box. Change the air filter while you are there.

    Get the plugs and wires from BajaRon.
    so that is the left side when i am siting on the bike right ?

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    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by electricman View Post
    so that is the left side when i am siting on the bike right ?
    On any vehicle, sitting on or in the vehicle, the left side is the driver's left and the right side is the driver's right side.............

    unless you are Navy .......... then it is port and starboard.............

    Left and right are always when you are behind the vehicle facing the same direction it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by electricman View Post
    so that is the left side when i am siting on the bike right ?
    left is left and rght is right thank you .HEY i did not tell all of you the can am only has 5500 miles but its a 2011 and when i got it used it only had 3500 miles but will check it out THANKS ALOT EVERY ONE

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    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I would also check the purge valve for proper operation.
    RTS 2011 SM5, 78,000 miles


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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Other then the plastic covers you don't have to remove anything to remove the hoses. I did have to use long nose pliers to get to the front one. Be as careful as you can as you need to cut your new hoses to the same length as the old. I bought my hose from NAPA.

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    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    And remember that you are asking questions to a post that was started 2017

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    Quote Originally Posted by safecracker View Post
    I would also check the purge valve for proper operation.
    what is the purge valve / Thanks

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    Active Member Claire's Avatar
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    no matter how old these threads are they are a wealth of knowledge!

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    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    The purge valve is the valve that lets your gas fumes from the gas tank into rear cylinder. If this valve fails it will cause motor to run on one cyinder, or eve stall on startup. Once cylinder is purged it will run ok. Sometimes it will reqire restarting tbe bike 3 or 4 times. This would happen to me if my gas level was below a half a tank of gas, and motor up to temp. If i stopped for gas when gas was low i never had a problem, because tank would vent when i put in fresh gas.
    This valve is located on the right side of bike. It is attached to rear cylinder. Some have had luck by removing hose and blocking of inlet to valve. Others have removed tge charcoal cannister along with blocking of valve. Do not unplug valve, na ny does not like that. Do a search on "cannister removal". Bruce
    RTS 2011 SM5, 78,000 miles


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    Just got in with check engine light 2012 RT 3400 miles Code P1171 ( #1 lean) Ill check vacuum hose and run seafoam..I've only driven a 100 miles since I got it last week and it was running a lot different until tonight. Like a small miss at low rpm..fine on the highway but ...engine light is annoying. Should i just disconnect the neg battery post to clear once i check over everything?

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davev1pa View Post
    Just got in with check engine light 2012 RT 3400 miles Code P1171 ( #1 lean) Ill check vacuum hose and run seafoam..I've only driven a 100 miles since I got it last week and it was running a lot different until tonight. Like a small miss at low rpm..fine on the highway but ...engine light is annoying. Should i just disconnect the neg battery post to clear once i check over everything?
    good luck FYI my ‘13ST had /has similar problems, hoses & purge valve replaced(codes & check engine light intermittent) Dealer thought fixed & ran great 700+ miles then stalled again couple times on uncommon downtown one way streets ( stop ,go ,dodge) currently back at dealer investigating along with a untimely oil leak.
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...k-engine-light
    Last edited by Bfromla; 03-25-2020 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Link

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