• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need Help - Idles rough then smooth + codes

The purge valve is the valve that lets your gas fumes from the gas tank into rear cylinder. If this valve fails it will cause motor to run on one cyinder, or eve stall on startup. Once cylinder is purged it will run ok. Sometimes it will reqire restarting tbe bike 3 or 4 times. This would happen to me if my gas level was below a half a tank of gas, and motor up to temp. If i stopped for gas when gas was low i never had a problem, because tank would vent when i put in fresh gas.
This valve is located on the right side of bike. It is attached to rear cylinder. Some have had luck by removing hose and blocking of inlet to valve. Others have removed tge charcoal cannister along with blocking of valve. Do not unplug valve, na ny does not like that. Do a search on "cannister removal". Bruce
 
Just got in with check engine light 2012 RT 3400 miles Code P1171 ( #1 lean) Ill check vacuum hose and run seafoam..I've only driven a 100 miles since I got it last week and it was running a lot different until tonight. Like a small miss at low rpm..fine on the highway but ...engine light is annoying. Should i just disconnect the neg battery post to clear once i check over everything?
 
Just got in with check engine light 2012 RT 3400 miles Code P1171 ( #1 lean) Ill check vacuum hose and run seafoam..I've only driven a 100 miles since I got it last week and it was running a lot different until tonight. Like a small miss at low rpm..fine on the highway but ...engine light is annoying. Should i just disconnect the neg battery post to clear once i check over everything?
:dontknow::dontknow:good luck FYI my ‘13ST had /has similar problems, hoses & purge valve replaced(codes & check engine light intermittent) Dealer thought fixed & ran great 700+ miles then stalled again couple times on uncommon downtown one way streets ( stop ,go ,dodge) currently back at dealer investigating along with a untimely oil leak. :sour:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ring-not-constant-code-amp-check-engine-light
 
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Just got in with check engine light 2012 RT 3400 miles Code P1171 ( #1 lean) Ill check vacuum hose and run seafoam..I've only driven a 100 miles since I got it last week and it was running a lot different until tonight. Like a small miss at low rpm..fine on the highway but ...engine light is annoying. Should i just disconnect the neg battery post to clear once i check over everything?
The 2012s had throttle body problems but I don't know if that would cause the lean error. Have a dealer check your VIN with BRP to see if the TB was replaced on your RT. BRP will have record if it was.
 
I just changed my wifes oil in her 2012 RT now its pushing a P2279 and P0106 code ... Never touched the vacuum line yet I guess its time now... wish me luck oh yea bike has almost 4k mikes on it.. thanks for your time and my first post.. take care all
 
They are the original equipment. the front one was cracked in 2 places the rear seems to be fine. I found some new 3mm ID high temp ones from summit racing. the only hitch is I had to purchase 10 feet of hose.. so if any one needs some just shoot me your address and Ill put some in the mail for ya. I have some pictures but Im not sure if I can post them since I'm a new member... hopefully this fixes the issue and she can get back to riding and I can go fishing...lol

take care all

Don L
 
..... I have some pictures but Im not sure if I can post them since I'm a new member... ....

Don L

Once your username turns blue & you've made your first post, you should be good to go with posting pics! :ohyea:

Your best & most helpful to potential readers option for doing this is by using the 'Manage Attachments' link that's down below the text block & its options in the 'Reply to Thread' or 'Go Advanced' screens & uploading them so the platform can manage them & show them as attachments. :thumbup:

The other/less helpful option is to hit the third button from the right in the bar above the text field in 'Quick Reply' or 'Post Reply', but this method does have some drawbacks (especially for 'hosted pics' that may not always show &/or can be held to ransom! :rolleyes:) and won't necessarily let your potential viewers see the image as a thumbnail &/or readily scroll thru the images once (or possibly even IF!) they are displayed in your post. :banghead:
 
Ok guys, I got the bike back running with the new vacuum lines and she runs great. New problem is the drivers side mirror will not stay on I think the top slotted mount is broken because it will not hook on the stud and then clip on the other 2... What am I looking at manic mirrors ? what is the fix for this..
 
Sounds like you haven't got Magic Mirror Mounts on that RT, which means it's past time to get them!! Lamonster Garage has them. :thumbup:

They are magnets that replace the pins, & little metal plates that replace the clips & placcy slotted mount/hook thing that has almost certainly broken on your floppy mirror. Easy 15min install, just don't pull the magnets off the roll to play with them until you're ready to install them, and even then, push ONE off the roll, put the roll well clear, & fit that one to the Spyder before moving on to the next! The magnets are Very STRONG (it's very easy to draw blood if skin &/or fingers get between two of them clacking together) and they are also fairly fragile due to the metal used to make them that strong magnetically, so playing with them & letting them clack &/or jump together is not a great idea - if they break, they're useless as mirror mounts! :shocked:
 
Ok guys, I got the bike back running with the new vacuum lines and she runs great. New problem is the drivers side mirror will not stay on I think the top slotted mount is broken because it will not hook on the stud and then clip on the other 2... What am I looking at manic mirrors ? what is the fix for this..
As Peter says, Magic Mirrors is your answer. Don't waste money and time replacing the OEM bits.
 
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