Anyone know the size of Torx on floor boards for F3 Limited.
And is there a better choice to put in there than a torx bolt.
TIA
Printable View
Anyone know the size of Torx on floor boards for F3 Limited.
And is there a better choice to put in there than a torx bolt.
TIA
Desperately hating Torx. I am on a mission to eliminate all Torx (star) screws on my F3. I am using m5 x .8 x 20mm stainless black oxide pan head phillips screws. I got them on Amazon but you might be able to find them elsewhere. I bought 50 of them for $13 on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you mean the ones to move the floorboards, they aren't Torx. They are 5mm Allen.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
What are the size of the bolts holding the wind screen on a 2019 F3 Limited , want to change the chrome out for black ,
To each his own, but a torx head is a more positive connection as far as tool to screw than a Philips head!! I find that they strip easyer! Just my two cents:dontknow: Now if you are trying to loosen a Allen head screw with a torx bit well that don't work so well!!! That has been some thing that's driven me nuts with BRP, mixing up all these fasteners threw out the bike! Allen, torx ,Philips, keep them the same for god sake!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
There are no torx used on the f3 ltd floorboards, they're all allen heads (at least not on my 2019).Quote:
Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
They are not thinking about the end user, only what works on the assembly line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
I'm thinking about replacing all the Phillips with Torx. The Torx give a much more positive connection to the tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdMat
Torx is to Hex (Allen) what Phillips is to Flat Blade.
When you consider that the ultimate purpose of a machined bolt or screw head is to resist stripping and transfer as much torque energy to the fastener as possible. The undisputed fact is that Torx is superior in every way to a Hex or Allen head. Personal preference aside. It's just a matter of physics. One of the issues I've seen many times is someone using an Allen wrench on a Torx. Or vise-versa. This will definitely give you grief. But this is not the fault of the design.
Here is a short article which outlines the benefits of the Torx. I don't have a dog in this race. And I am all for each person using what they prefer. After all, it is your ride. But go into it with all the facts.
http://rtstools.com/why-torx-bolts-a...han-hex-bolts/
Too many can't figure out Torx or Allen heads. That's why they strip them out. Torx and Allen work great. Put your glasses on and look at the differences.
If your assumption is that I'm using the wrong tool, I'm not. I agree that the inconsistent application by BRP is... well... Thanks for the basic elementary but unnecessary education. If the torx they used would react to a magnet, I would have left them. However, they don't because they are made of some alien alloy. I use an impact driver to work on my bikes and never have a problem. But after dropping several alien torx into the bowels of the Spyder I made the change. They are M5 x .8. After 30 years in the auto industry... Anyway. putting torx that is immune to magnetism IN A RECESS is less than ideal, by polite verbiage. Engineers should be forced to use what they design 10 times daily for a year before the design becomes final. The mudguard on the rear of the F3T is a good example of insanity. The only thing a torx bit is good for is to get a stripped allen head out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
M5 x .8 x 20Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderbear
The bolts I replace are low torque. Again, no magnet will hold the ones on the body panels. I often wonder what magical device the assembler use on the line.Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
:agree: ….. However there is reason they do this ….. If you need a T30 Torx bolt ….. where do you get it …. from a dealer that sells OEM bolts ….. How much do you pay for it ???? …. $3 - $4 - $5 ( I've never bought any ) … What do you think BRP paid for it $ .03 - $.04 - $.05 ….. Now you know why they don't care how many you lose !!!! :banghead:...………….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
I agree that mixing up the drive tools needed is not good engineering. I always wonder if low bid gets the nod more than it should. I also agree that Torx, though superior in the ways mentioned, is not necessary in low torque applications. Using a non-ferrous metal keeps rust out of the picture. This may be a reason for the bolts used by BRP.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Like I said, to each his own:bowdown:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Quote "Using a non-ferrous metal keeps rust out of the picture. This may be a reason for the bolts used by BRP." Remember this is a "snow sled" with wheels. Got to watch out for rust in all that wet out doors snow.
Just about anything but try and get stainless grade 8Quote:
Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
You can buy a whole set of Torx Bits for about $10 or a set of Torx Sockets for $15. Why would anybody buy just one Torx tool? You gonna need a different size one day next week.
http://www.tanwater.com/pics/spyder-gasmonkey-01.JPG
When dealing with brand new "Lok-tited" bolts and screws its always nice to have a new Torx bit to grip better. I found a 2 pack of Torx 30 bits at Lowes the other day for a little more than $3.
I'll keep one in the tool kit on the RT and add the other to the tool chest. It also seems that the more I wrench on these things, most of the bolts don't really have to be as tight as they tend get wrenched on by techs at the dealerships... or even the oil drain plugs on the car for that matter. Usually snug is good!
When dealing with the Locktite bolts on anything, adjust a butane torch to a blue tip and hold it on the head of the bolt for about a minute and you can back the bolt out just like it never had any Locktite on it. Ain't gotta be glowing red or even hot enough to burn the paint around the bolt. Just get it hot enough to melt the Locktite.
https://diyinahour.com/diy/wp-conten...pane-Torch.jpg
Also works to heat up rusted nuts.
https://diyinahour.com/diy/wp-conten...pane-Torch.jpg
Also works to heat up rusted nuts.[/QUOTE]
Would not recommend on a recessed body panel. :yikes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingit3611
I have many Phillips on my quads that respond to a magnet and made of a non-rusting alloy. Being on my quads, they see lots more corrosives than on my Spyder. I'm sure they also think the cute little coneheads are a plus! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
You have to use common sense with the heat. None of the body panel fasteners on mine have had Locktite on them. I changed out all the little button head hex fasteners for socket hex cap screws.
True, you can get low nickle stainless which is less prone to rust and will stick to a magnet. I just don't think that sticking to a magnet is part of BRP's check-off list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
I find the torx to collect head dirt limiting the depth of the tool. I've replaced most of mine with allen head screws & bolts. No problems now.Quote:
Originally Posted by petegtsv10