It is an Ultimate Seat you have to buy the seat to get the gas door.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
Pitbull Powersports were selling add-on fuel doors during Spyderfest this year..Pit Bull Powersports Springfield, MO (417) 863-1418.....they are a sponsor and I think they are closed on Mondays..
if your getting a seat with the door built in great. The add on to your existing seat ones are a little involved. I find getting everyone off and moving about while I refuel refreshing if I had one my wife would not even get off...
Last edited by Chupaca; 08-19-2013 at 10:20 PM.
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
that specific fuel door can be found at any O'Reilys/AutoZone and was being installed by PitBull Powersports during this last SpyderFest as an alternative to buying a whole corbin seat just for the fuel door.
Gas stations are where I walk around to stretch my legs (and visit the men's room!) I thought that was why BRP built the Spyder the way they did . . . to force me off the thing from time to time!
"Topper" is my Pearl White 2013 RT-LTD
Professional Retiree - liked it so much when I retired from the USAF, that I started another career so I could do it again!
Happy to be a member of the Maryland Spyder Web - find us at
also check out SUMMITRACING.COM.....for Jeep many different sizes , with or without locks and different colors and finishes.....I think less money also....Just sayin ....Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-04-2014 at 10:45 AM.
I just installed a gas door it is a very iffy deal. The problem is, the stock seat pan is not flat in back, it is very hard to cut. Tips:
1. Use a hole saw but rotate it by hand else it will fly away make sure to cut from the backside
2. You have to unstaple the seat vinyl and be very careful not to catch it with the saw
3. You will be cutting thru 4 layers of foam and vinyl, need a very sharp knife and a burr to round out the circle
4. Attaching the fuel door to the seat pan exposes the risk of the bolts scratching the tupperware
5. Make sure the fuel door has no ridges inside or it will not lay flush
6. The stock seat is not flat sided so the fuel door will force it to stretch
worst part
7. You cant put the door right over the gas filler due to the stitching and the curve of the seat pan. The gas nozzle will be at a 45 degree angle. Therefore make sure the hinge is on the right.
8. You cannot drill thru the vinyl seat cover. I had to cut cross hatches and push the bolts thru. Try to drill, even in reverse, it catches and will rip.
my advice, dont do it
I have not attempted this but I have given it some thought, and might it be possible to mount the GAS DOOR first and then cut the hole ......By doing it this way the vinyl and padding of the seat etc. will be firmly secured to the seat pan when you use whatever tools you need to make the HOLE......Just a thought...Mike ./......I have since done a gas door and fool-proof way is to not cut it !!!!!..........Burn it....the holes for the screws , use a hot nail .....The gas door I did was a lot smaller but you could still get a piece of larger pipe and have some one heat it up with a torch and burn the hole that way.....just sayin......Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 02-28-2015 at 07:48 PM.
You have your answer, but we'll share our experience for folks to keep in mind
With Teddy's carrier & sun canopy mounted to the rear passenger area, it was a bear to fuel up as each time we'd either have to remove everything to raise the seat to fuel up or I'd have to leave it all there and just pry the front part of the seat up enough to slide the fuel nozzle in, but that would bend the front part of the seat & potentially warp it over time.
We had this mod done and sadly, I have to admit, I do regret having it done. The door used for our mod is too large for the area and doesn't look right. And as mentioned by another poster, and us not being aware of this before hand, you have to be extra careful if you do raise and lower your seat, otherwise you WILL scratch your tupperware residing under the fuel door, as we did ours. Also, in hot sunny weather, think about that nice shiny silver plate being right up against the inside of your left leg/knee
Personally, If I had it to do over again, I would have had a black plastic door installed, much like Inspector Gadget can do for you. I'm not downing anyone, just sharing our experience & giving others the benifit of our experience. One of Teddy's favorite quotes is, 'There's Always More Than One Way To Skin A Cat' Cheers:
Your idea of mounting the door first then cutting the hole - I actually did a hybrid of that, I mounted the door with only one bolt and then tried to position it exactly and cut the hole, then install the other bolts..
The problem is, to mount the door, you have to cut at least one hole all the way through 3 layers of troublesome stretch vinyl plastic. You cant drill it, you cant cut it with a sharp knife unless you have LOTS of clearance. With the door already in place, its vey hard to get any tools in there - certainly not a burr on a Dremel.
Also, the holes have to be a size larger than the chrome ring holes or you will never get the bolts through. Did I mention you have to get the bolts at Ace hardware ? Another adventure.
The real show stopper though is the inability to position it right over the gas cap. CyncySpyders photo seems to show this problem. His looks exactly like mine.
I gave up and ordered an Ultimate seat.
I have found that a really really hot large nail will usually take care of the " hole in the vinyl problem ", then drill it out ......and as far as getting the bolts thru.......well even if they are the same size or a hair smaller just screw them in......a steel bolt will make it's own threads in plastic .....just sayin...Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-04-2014 at 12:43 PM.
That's why the first thing I up grade on my 2014 will be the seat. With my wife's bad knees it's better for her to sit tight while I refuel instead of her getting on and off.
Not sure if you seen the other post today but I used this door: All Sales 6044GKL Billet Fuel Door Sold by Amazon.com LLC. I sanded then glued matching seat fabric onto it so it blends in and looks stock. It is the small door I could find so it fits the area much better as well. I left the perimeter screws in place and glued over them but not sure about it as they do show throw faintly. I may pull that area off and recover and fill the holes first. The vinyl helps keep the door insulated when it gets hot out so you don't burn the inside of your thigh after leaving it parked in the sun.
Not sure if you seen the other post today but I used this door: All Sales 6044GKL Billet Fuel Door Sold by Amazon.com LLC. I sanded then glued matching seat fabric onto it so it blends in and looks stock. It is the small door I could find so it fits the area much better as well. I left the perimeter screws in place and glued over them but not sure about it as they do show throw faintly. I may pull that area off and recover and fill the holes first. The vinyl helps keep the door insulated when it gets hot out so you don't burn the inside of your thigh after leaving it parked in the sun.
......This door is 5 1/2 inches in diameter......Mike
I am noting the post originated almost a year ago. Right on, the OP shows a picture of the gas entry door on an Ultimate seat.
I have had Corbin seats on two of my 's and like the convenience of not having to lift the seat to refill the gas tank. Also have had standard type seats on the other two 's. Do I need it or not? I have found it does not matter to much.
I like the gas station stop to get off the , stretch, get a snack, etc. So, never a problem for me. I don't travel with so much extra baggage that I have to put stuff on the seat also. So, lifting the seat has never been an issue for me.
The gas doors do look nice, and make the different, so if you want one, go for it.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Here is a picture of the unit covered to match, as you can see it is much smaller than the others shown. I have a Corbin Seat but the leather is hot and the seat is uncomfortable so I left the stock seat on the new bike. I like to have an extra bag on the back seat and it is strapped such that lift the seat is a chore. I get off to fill my bike so this is not about that, lol. I did a lot of research before buying this door and,placement will be critical but installing will be simple. I will locate the 4 studs locations, then use a fabric punch to cut out the mounting holes. I will then bolt just the ring on (take off the door and hardware) then cut the fabric out. I can then use a hole saw to drill through the plastic of the saddle. The door comes with nylon spacers so I will cut 4 of them just long enough to allow the door to mount against the spacer then I will use flat head screws to screw into the stud locations. This will make a nice fit that will compress only enough to flush the door to the surround fabric. Easy peasy, lol.
Last edited by bluestratos; 03-04-2014 at 03:35 PM.
Here is the final result after install. I made a template, taped in place then used a sharp awl to drive though the covering and plastic. I then took my 4" hole saw and ran it backwards slowly to cut out the plastic. Next I ran the awl through the mounting holes and attached the door loosely. I slit the fabric then slid a piece of plastic between the fabric and the foam padding to allow me to cut out the foam with an Exacto knife without cutting the fabric. I slit the fabric into about 3/4" pies shapes then pulled it over and around the back to staple.
I did not need to use the steel spring plate nor the lock plate on the back of the fuel door, the lock tab uses the seat plastic and works better than designed. The spring tab is replaced by the pressure of the foam rubber under the fabric so the door stays closed and stay open correctly.
I am more than pleased with the end result, but check the pictures out
Last edited by bluestratos; 03-07-2014 at 10:40 AM.
Gas entry through the seat
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Originally Posted by tconaagt
RS - 55K+ miles, F3 - 200 miles and counting. 
You have your answer, but we'll share our experience for folks to keep in mind
's and like the convenience of not having to lift the seat to refill the gas tank. Also have had standard type seats on the other two 
's. Do I need it or not? I have found it does not matter to much. 
That looks pretty darn GREAT!! 
