2012 RT SE5 Coolant Leak Issues

[Reverse]

K, not sure if I can get this to work or not as I have never posted before. I have a coolant leak, discovered a few months back as we were putting it to bed for the winter. I am about 3 Hrs away from the dealer in Wichita and do not own a trailer to haul it. It has under 600 miles from date of purchase. As it is getting to be Ryding season in Kansas I am really wanting to get it ready. My hubby is more familiar with 2 wheeled bikes and very good at diagnosing and fixing problems but the Spyder is a whole different bike. My question is, what is the best way to get inside the Spyder to check the hoses? We added more coolant a couple of weeks ago so we know it is not a loose cap. Lamont ( or anyone else ) do you have any videos on how to address this issue? Any help would be appreciated. My kind hubby has purchased me a heated Corbin Seat, the anti-sway bars, I got the BumpSkid for Christmas and lights. All of which are sitting in the garage (anti-sway bars are shipping) awaiting my coolant leak fix. Any constructive replays is appreciated!

[ornerydog7]

K, not sure if I can get this to work or not as I have never posted before. I have a coolant leak, discovered a few months back as we were putting it to bed for the winter. I am about 3 Hrs away from the dealer in Wichita and do not own a trailer to haul it. It has under 600 miles from date of purchase. As it is getting to be Ryding season in Kansas I am really wanting to get it ready. My hubby is more familiar with 2 wheeled bikes and very good at diagnosing and fixing problems but the Spyder is a whole different bike. My question is, what is the best way to get inside the Spyder to check the hoses? We added more coolant a couple of weeks ago so we know it is not a loose cap. Lamont ( or anyone else ) do you have any videos on how to address this issue? Any help would be appreciated. My kind hubby has purchased me a heated Corbin Seat, the anti-sway bars, I got the BumpSkid for Christmas and lights. All of which are sitting in the garage (anti-sway bars are shipping) awaiting my coolant leak fix. Any constructive replays is appreciated!

Here's link that may answer your questions

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...coolant+leak#8

[Jeriatric]

Here's link that may answer your questions

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...coolant+leak#8

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r+pump+leaking

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r+pump+leaking

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r+pump+leaking

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r+pump+leaking

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r+pump+leaking

[Reverse]

Thank you very much!

[NancysToy]

There are instructions for removing some of the panels in your owner's manual. There are more procedures in the shop manual, which can be purchased online at various sources.

[Chupaca]

First off do you have wet spot under the bike at all.? If so, after removing the panels, you can try to follow the path. Start the bike with panels off and search out the leak. Main source: hoses, water tank, water pump. Good luck, hope it's not more than a loose clamp..

[Reverse]

There are instructions for removing some of the panels in your owner's manual. There are more procedures in the shop manual, which can be purchased online at various sources.

Thanks!

[Reverse]

First off do you have wet spot under the bike at all.? If so, after removing the panels, you can try to follow the path. Start the bike with panels off and search out the leak. Main source: hoses, water tank, water pump. Good luck, hope it's not more than a loose clamp..

Yes, there is a wet spot under it, a large wet spot over time. We managed to find the coolant reservoir and once we got the cap off we added more coolant, hard to actually see it in the reservoir but we filled it to what we think is the max fill line. After wrestling to get the pressure cap back on we started it up for a bit, let the fan come on and shut it off. I could see the drips coming down from the middle plate bellow the belly of the Spyder. We will check the manual that Nancy suggested or purchase the other one, if needed. I know we will not have it up and going before Spyderfest but I am anxious to get it up and going and add the mods I got laying in the garage. Thanks for your help!

[Jeriatric]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/m...etails&mid=237

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/m...etails&mid=243

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/m...etails&mid=247

[NancysToy]

Pull off the right side panels. There is a single screw-type (worm) clamp on one hose. The rest are Oetiker clamps. A common cause of leaks is that screw clamp. Give it a turn or two (quite snug but not too tight) and that should do it if that is the problem. Also, look under the Spyder. If the leakage is coming out of the overflow hose, your cap is not tightened to the second detent, or is faulty. It is tricky to tighten it, but make sure to tighten to the second "notch". Finally, if all else fails, fill the coolant to the proper level, put a jug of premixed coolant in the trunk, and hit the road to the dealer. You should be able to make it without a trailer if the problem isn't catastrophic, like a cracked coolant tank.

[Cruzr Joe]

UNDER 600 MILES???????????????

take it in for its 600 mile checkup and let the dealer worry/fix the problem. Just my thoughts.

Cruzr Joe

[CyncySpyder]

UNDER 600 MILES???????????????

take it in for its 600 mile checkup and let the dealer worry/fix the problem. Just my thoughts.

Cruzr Joe

WOW!!! I'd be calling the dealer and letting them know about this & they should tell you to bring it right in. Our 2011 RT-S is in the shop right now for a pretty bad coolant leak & oil leak as well. They had to order a new thermostat to replace the leaking one, but then when they went to do the coolant change, they tried using the worthless drain plug and busted it & now we're waiting for an entire new radiator to be shipped & replaced, but we're at 34,000 miles. At less than 600, this shouldn't be happening to you.

Hope they get it figured out & fixed & get you back to Enjoying the Ryde sooner than later

[jerpinoy]

If the leak is a seepage drip , we can say its not too serious and the engine not over heating. Re check your coolant and proper radiator cap installation. Call your dealer and let them fix it. 600 miles logged? hopefully not seriousproblem.

[Reverse]

WOW!!! I'd be calling the dealer and letting them know about this & they should tell you to bring it right in. Our 2011 RT-S is in the shop right now for a pretty bad coolant leak & oil leak as well. They had to order a new thermostat to replace the leaking one, but then when they went to do the coolant change, they tried using the worthless drain plug and busted it & now we're waiting for an entire new radiator to be shipped & replaced, but we're at 34,000 miles. At less than 600, this shouldn't be happening to you.

Hope they get it figured out & fixed & get you back to Enjoying the Ryde sooner than later

Thanks, kind of my thought as well I have not had this one for very long and had to put it up for winter. I appreciate everyone's response. I see all the time the myles of smyles people have on the Spyder, I want to know that experience soon!!

[Reverse]

Pull off the right side panels. There is a single screw-type (worm) clamp on one hose. The rest are Oetiker clamps. A common cause of leaks is that screw clamp. Give it a turn or two (quite snug but not too tight) and that should do it if that is the problem. Also, look under the Spyder. If the leakage is coming out of the overflow hose, your cap is not tightened to the second detent, or is faulty. It is tricky to tighten it, but make sure to tighten to the second "notch". Finally, if all else fails, fill the coolant to the proper level, put a jug of premixed coolant in the trunk, and hit the road to the dealer. You should be able to make it without a trailer if the problem isn't catastrophic, like a cracked coolant tank.

Thanks for the information it is very helpful. I was looking for a 2012 Shop Manual online earlier today, good advise!!!

[Reverse]

Finally, tax time is over and the Spyder got to go to the dealership (big thanks to hubby) and it turns out leak was from loose water hose. Now, if this dang weather would stop being extremely cold and miserable one day and extremely hot the next day it would help out on planning Ryde's!

[Mickay]

Hi,

I got RTS- 2010 , and 1 month after warranty went out. I start to loose some water coolant , after looking forward , i take out the water tank from the spyder , and fill it with water and without pressure some water drip from the seal tank on the back side of the tank (the tank is made in two part and and they glue them or melt them together) i call my dealer they tell i'm out of warranty , i said ok call BRP tell them i have RTS First Edition i heard there was problem with quality of the tank, 15 minute past he call back ok he said BRP will replace with new one they know about it. He order new one. Next day bring in fail one , took new one. Install new one. No more dripping. So i have 2010 the spyder go to dealer enough time. Take care of mine now at home. And i save 90$ new tank + 1 hour labor.

[Reverse]

Mickay,
Glad you were able to work on your own. We are kind of new to the Spyders and so once we started pulling panels off to see if we could determine what was going on our own insecurity took over and we bailed and went to dealership 150 miles from us. I am sure between the folks on this forum and our experience with taking care of our own bikes in the past; we will get to the point where we are comfortable working on the Spyder we will do more of our own Maint. We are actually getting ready to install the anti sway bar and the bump skid and add some lights. The more familiar we are of it ( and I watch utube videos, read the manuals, and we purchased a shop manual for future reference. as I had less than around 400 miles on it we wanted the dealership to fix it. Have a great/safe Ryding Season!

[jthornton]

If you cut a 2" long piece of 2x4 and put that between the frunk and the frame after you loosen/remove the screws in the instructions it will hold the frunk just far enough out to change the sway bar with ease. Hmm 2012 and older anyway.

JT

[Reverse]

If you cut a 2" long piece of 2x4 and put that between the frunk and the frame after you loosen/remove the screws in the instructions it will hold the frunk just far enough out to change the sway bar with ease. Hmm 2012 and older anyway.

JT

Thanks for the info on the anti sway bar! We were try to do the anti sway board first then the BumpSkid plate. Are we wrong in our thoughts? .

[NancysToy]

Thanks for the info on the anti sway bar! We were try to do the anti sway board first then the BumpSkid plate. Are we wrong in our thoughts? .

It's slightly easier in that order, but it's not a big deal.

[Reverse]

It's slightly easier in that order, but it's not a big deal.

Thank you for the input. For Christmas last year I got several things for the Spyder, which now that the coolant leak has been taken care of we are ready to get the rest of the new mods started. I can't wait to be able to head out on the highway!