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  1. #1
    Ultimate Spyderlover Kratos's Avatar
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    Default Constant Flashing......What about you?

    The Spyder RS headlights must be a pain to see head on. When hitting the back highways at night, almost every car flashes their brights at me indicating that I have my brights on. I've even gotten flashed on the interstate, and those cars are 20 feet away to the incoming side. I flash them back to show them that they're not on bright, and that it can get brighter. I can't see their facial expressions, but I bet when I flash back, they go into a state of shock that I'm on dim setting. I can only imagine that they are saying that whoever made that bike screwed incoming cars. Lol

    My wife said that they are blinding. Whenever I ride behind her going home, she becomes unable to look in the rearview mirror. My theory is maybe the flood pattern is too wide. Maybe the beam needs a more focused pattern???...

    Do you guys get flashed alot?....



    2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
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  2. #2
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Align your headlights if they are set too high. The procedure is in your manual, but they usually need to be set a tiny bit lower unless they are aligned with a rider/passenger on board.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  3. #3
    Registered Users MindlessMuse's Avatar
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    Constantly. Every morning when I ride at least 3-4 times on my commute. I was going to have the dealer check the level of the beam next I had it in the shop.

    I have the stock bulbs in and was debating the upgrade, but with the constant amount of flashes I get now, I could not imagine it with brighter HID lights.

  4. #4
    arntufun
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    I have the same problem with mine and like you I always get flashed. They might be aimed to high like mine are.

    There was a thread about a news story months back where a woman was driving in her car and a Spyder was behind her. She thought the guy on the Spyder was trying to get her to pull over and she called/went (I don't remember excactly) the cops thinking he was trying to abduct her or something like that.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member btcherm's Avatar
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    Default Constant Flashing......What about you?

    I ride with a large group and they wont let me ride it the back of the pack they say my light are to bright.
    Ihave to led the way,all way up front so be it.

  6. #6
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    During the day I usually ride with my high beams on. Never get flashed. The way I figure it, better that they see you than not.

    If you are heavier than average, or ride loaded down, make sure your lights are aligned.
    When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
    Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
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  7. #7
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    We had a thread in here about adjusting the headlights on both the RS and RT models. One of our members took the time to figure out how to set your lights correctly if you don't have exactly the amount of room to normally make the adjustment.
    Unfortunately; I only downloaded the info on the RT's lights...
    Maybe if you did some digging you'll be able to find the thread!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #8
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    Like mentioned before , The lights are too high.
    You do want to be seen, But you also don't want to annoy the Wrong person,
    Especially if Their in a larger vehicle then you are!

  9. #9
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    I flashed them back once, but got a ticket for indecent exposure.
    When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
    Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
    Sold List: 97 Ninja500R, 03 SV650K3, 01 Ducati 750Sport Dark, 73 CB350/4, 03 F650GSA, 08 Gixxer600, 03 Gixxer600, 91 VFR750F, 09 KLX250, 06 Thruxton 900, 08 Spyder RS , 12 Street TripleR, 15 RC390, 02 VFR800, 09 KLX250S, 10 F650GS
    JLohPhotos
    ... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
    2008 GS , Millennium Yellow

  10. #10
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Post Something to consider. ..... You probably need to aim them a bit lower

    I think the reason most of you are getting flashed, is cause on-coming vehicles think you are flashing them & not neccessarily that you just have your brights on, & this (in my experience) is especially true for the RS models more so than the RT, but is valid for both models. With the Spyders short wheel base, every bump in the road causes the front end to bounce, and it will either dip down or go up & then quickly after, the rear follows pattern. When this happens, your headlights will momentarily aim a bit higher, then lower then level back off. The way (especially the RS) our headlights are aimed/focused, that will usually cause the on-coming cars (or in the rear view mirror of cars in front of us) to think we're flashing them, hence the reason they usually flash back. I noticed this myself in a group ryde with an RS behind us. Also, if you've added Elkas or other after market shocks, they will usually raise the front end an inch or so, often requiring the need to readjust the aim of your lights. As Scotty stated, the proper procedure is in the book, hope this helps.

  11. #11
    Registered Users pro10is's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    We had a thread in here about adjusting the headlights on both the RS and RT models. One of our members took the time to figure out how to set your lights correctly if you don't have exactly the amount of room to normally make the adjustment.
    Unfortunately; I only downloaded the info on the RT's lights...
    Maybe if you did some digging you'll be able to find the thread!
    Assumptions:
    Spyder GS/RS/RS-S Headlight Height: 32.375" on average w/200 lb driver. (This could change considerably with a heavier/lighter driver, cargo load, tire pressure, performance shocks, etc.)
    BRP Specs for Headlight Adjustment: Adjust for a low beam height of 24.0" to 27.5" (25.75" halfway point) at 33' with a 200 lb driver.

    Angle
    Distance Low Beam Height Adjustment
    0.96° 33' 24.0" - 27.5"
    0.96° 30' 24.6" - 28.1"
    0.96° 25' 25.6" - 29.1"
    0.96° 20' 26.6" - 30.1"
    0.96° 15' 27.6" - 31.1"
    0.96° 10' 28.6" - 32.1"

  12. #12
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    Thank you!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    The street in front of my house is flat. I park the bike (truck) in a spot as if I were driving down the street. I adjust each headlight by looking to see where the light hits the ground.
    When I'm finished adjusting, I walk down the street about 40-50 feet in front of the bike (truck) and stoop down. I want to see if either light is bothersome if I were driving in a Sports car? That's my check. That's the best method I've found for since I've used E Code head lights in all my vehicles since 1974. Marchal or Cibie.
    I run HIDs in my RT now.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Laila's Dad's Avatar
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    Default me too...

    I got flashed last night. I didn't flash back but they are definitely bright. I assumed that was intentional to make sure the spYder was seen. I didn't know it was a setting issue.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I also take mine out at night on a flat level surface. I adjust my hi beams to wear they are to my liking. The lo beams are set from there. The bad thing about the Spyder's headlights is the way they use a guilatine style device that cuts off the upper part of the headlight. This really cuts off the distance that lo beams usually reach. When I am driving at night and I am using lo beams, I really slow down due to the light just doesn't get out there. I would rather see a car style lighting system.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Great information. Thanks.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  17. #17
    Ultimate Spyderlover Kratos's Avatar
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    Default Going to get the manual...

    Excellent info given on this thread. Thanks guys, I didn't even think about if they could be adjusted.

    I'm going to go get my manual and read up on this...



    2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
    TricLed/Custom Dynamics Led Project titled "Knight Rider"

  18. #18
    zrc
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    I always welcome the ladies flashing me with their... wait wait, my bad...

    *takes his bucket of beads and goes home*

  19. #19
    Active Member james danny's Avatar
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    Default flashing

    Quote Originally Posted by CyncySpyder View Post
    I think the reason most of you are getting flashed, is cause on-coming vehicles think you are flashing them & not neccessarily that you just have your brights on, & this (in my experience) is especially true for the RS models more so than the RT, but is valid for both models. With the Spyders short wheel base, every bump in the road causes the front end to bounce, and it will either dip down or go up & then quickly after, the rear follows pattern. When this happens, your headlights will momentarily aim a bit higher, then lower then level back off. The way (especially the RS) our headlights are aimed/focused, that will usually cause the on-coming cars (or in the rear view mirror of cars in front of us) to think we're flashing them, hence the reason they usually flash back. I noticed this myself in a group ryde with an RS behind us. Also, if you've added Elkas or other after market shocks, they will usually raise the front end an inch or so, often requiring the need to readjust the aim of your lights. As Scotty stated, the proper procedure is in the book, hope this helps.
    that is correct

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyncySpyder View Post
    I think the reason most of you are getting flashed, is cause on-coming vehicles think you are flashing them & not neccessarily that you just have your brights on, & this (in my experience) is especially true for the RS models more so than the RT, but is valid for both models. With the Spyders short wheel base, every bump in the road causes the front end to bounce, and it will either dip down or go up & then quickly after, the rear follows pattern. When this happens, your headlights will momentarily aim a bit higher, then lower then level back off. The way (especially the RS) our headlights are aimed/focused, that will usually cause the on-coming cars (or in the rear view mirror of cars in front of us) to think we're flashing them, hence the reason they usually flash back. I noticed this myself in a group ryde with an RS behind us. Also, if you've added Elkas or other after market shocks, they will usually raise the front end an inch or so, often requiring the need to readjust the aim of your lights. As Scotty stated, the proper procedure is in the book, hope this helps.
    The Harley guys i ride with in a group always think I am flashing them to pull over. Your right, its the movement up and down over bumps that makes it look like your flashing. And this is during daylight hours so I'm sure at night oncoming traffic thinks your flashing them.

  21. #21
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    I thought maybe I would fill in a few gaps here, with a primer on Spyder headlights. A lot of you will know this stuff, but it may be useful for others.

    The Spyder headlights in North America utilize halogen bulbs behind a projection lens, located in the upper lighting nacelles (which are high, and quite close to oncoming traffic's eye level. During low beam operation, a shutter covers the upper half of the lens, limiting the beam to the lower portion only. These characteristics can cause some peculiarities. First, the projection lenses cast a relatively narrow (focused) beam. If the alignment is too high, this can shine quite brightly into oncoming drivers' eyes, even on low beam. If you are getting flashed at night, on low, the alignment is probably too high. Look for the shutter line on the car ahead, and you can usually tell if the beam is too high. A heavy rider, or a rider carrying cargo or a passenger will have the headlights aimed higher than he/she thinks. Lowering the rear end on the shocks raises the focus of those narrow beams quite significantly, so cargo or a passenger can alter the setting. An RT will have different aim, depending on the air suspension setting.

    If you are getting flashed in the daytime, you are seeing another effect of the focused beam. To oncoming traffic (or in a rearview mirror) you may appear to be flashing your lights on and off, as the narrow beam goes in and out of the other vehicles direct line of sight. This is common for motorcycles that tend to bounce on the bumps more than cars, but the focused beam enhances the effect, and seem even worse than a typical two-wheeler. On low beam, the shutter narrows the beam even more, making things worse. The oncoming driver see what he/she thinks is you flashing your lights on and off, and flashes (or pulls over) in return.

    There are two "cures" for these situations. First, adjust the headlight aim. Your manual tells you how. This is best done with someone sitting on the passenger seat, or with an equivalent weight. To be honest, I seldom do a measured adjustment. I just lower (or raise) the headlights a bit, shine them on a wall to get them even, and try things out. This trial and error method works fine for me. Sometimes I follow my wife in the car before and after, and have her tell me if the lights appear to be flashing or are too bright. The oject is to keep the direct focus below the eye level of traffic ahead...and preferably get the low beam cut-off line low enough that it will not "bounce" into direct sight.

    The other "cure", for being flashed in the daytime, is to ride with brights during the day. The low beam shutter cuts the beam just below the eye level of traffic ahead. As you bounce, the edge goes in and out of the other driver's direct sight, appearing to make your lights flash. If you ride with high beams in the daytime, they tend to see a more continuous, less annoying light.

    I hope this helps. Headlight adjustment is not a one size fits all thing, especially with the Spyder. Taking some time to fine tune the adjustment, then riding with high beams in the daytime, should get you less flashing in return.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  22. #22
    Very Active Member CanAmChris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    ...
    The other "cure", for being flashed in the daytime, is to ride with brights during the day. The low beam shutter cuts the beam just below the eye level of traffic ahead. As you bounce, the edge goes in and out of the other driver's direct sight, appearing to make your lights flash. If you ride with high beams in the daytime, they tend to see a more continuous, less annoying light.
    ...
    This is how I have done it for almost two years and I don't get flashed by cagers. I am 195# and rarely ride two up. If I do have a passanger it is only during the day.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I thought maybe I would fill in a few gaps here, with a primer on Spyder headlights. A lot of you will know this stuff, but it may be useful for others.

    The Spyder headlights in North America utilize halogen bulbs behind a projection lens, located in the upper lighting nacelles (which are high, and quite close to oncoming traffic's eye level. During low beam operation, a shutter covers the upper half of the lens, limiting the beam to the lower portion only. These characteristics can cause some peculiarities. First, the projection lenses cast a relatively narrow (focused) beam. If the alignment is too high, this can shine quite brightly into oncoming drivers' eyes, even on low beam. If you are getting flashed at night, on low, the alignment is probably too high. Look for the shutter line on the car ahead, and you can usually tell if the beam is too high. A heavy rider, or a rider carrying cargo or a passenger will have the headlights aimed higher than he/she thinks. Lowering the rear end on the shocks raises the focus of those narrow beams quite significantly, so cargo or a passenger can alter the setting. An RT will have different aim, depending on the air suspension setting.

    If you are getting flashed in the daytime, you are seeing another effect of the focused beam. To oncoming traffic (or in a rearview mirror) you may appear to be flashing your lights on and off, as the narrow beam goes in and out of the other vehicles direct line of sight. This is common for motorcycles that tend to bounce on the bumps more than cars, but the focused beam enhances the effect, and seem even worse than a typical two-wheeler. On low beam, the shutter narrows the beam even more, making things worse. The oncoming driver see what he/she thinks is you flashing your lights on and off, and flashes (or pulls over) in return.

    There are two "cures" for these situations. First, adjust the headlight aim. Your manual tells you how. This is best done with someone sitting on the passenger seat, or with an equivalent weight. To be honest, I seldom do a measured adjustment. I just lower (or raise) the headlights a bit, shine them on a wall to get them even, and try things out. This trial and error method works fine for me. Sometimes I follow my wife in the car before and after, and have her tell me if the lights appear to be flashing or are too bright. The oject is to keep the direct focus below the eye level of traffic ahead...and preferably get the low beam cut-off line low enough that it will not "bounce" into direct sight.

    The other "cure", for being flashed in the daytime, is to ride with brights during the day. The low beam shutter cuts the beam just below the eye level of traffic ahead. As you bounce, the edge goes in and out of the other driver's direct sight, appearing to make your lights flash. If you ride with high beams in the daytime, they tend to see a more continuous, less annoying light.

    I hope this helps. Headlight adjustment is not a one size fits all thing, especially with the Spyder. Taking some time to fine tune the adjustment, then riding with high beams in the daytime, should get you less flashing in return.
    Thank You Scotty for your detailed explanation of this head light system. I will run my lights on high during the daylight hours.

  24. #24
    Registered Users Dwanton's Avatar
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    this person pulled out in front of me one night and kept pace at about 40 mph on a 50 mph back road -- and i do not ride slow but could not pass the idiot -- he kept tapping his brakes and i knew my lights which were on low , were lighting up his rearview mirror pretty good .

    finally i had a the spot to pass and be dammed that as soon as i passed he turned on his high beams and didnt turn them off -- he pissed me off so bad from pulling out in front of me , that i desided to slow down to about 5 mph and show him he was number 1 for a few seconds , then twisted the throttle and was a blur in about 4 seconds .

    road rage you might say ... well , people just cant understand how fast motorcycles are coming at them.

    after that i adjusted the headlight down , which sucks for riding at night cause no i have to use my high beams to see anything -- but before when i hit the high beams they were pretty useless ... in the tree tops actually. but that is the way i bought it.

    6'0 , 215 -- if you wanted to know
    2012 RSS orange / black SE5 , Sport rack , backrest , comfort seat , console protector , front trunk liner , yoshimura R-77 carbon fiber , two brothers juice box pro using PC map 6 , K&N air filter , factory fog lamps

  25. #25
    Very Active Member flaggerphil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyncySpyder View Post
    I think the reason most of you are getting flashed, is cause on-coming vehicles think you are flashing them & not neccessarily that you just have your brights on, & this (in my experience) is especially true for the RS models more so than the RT, but is valid for both models. With the Spyders short wheel base, every bump in the road causes the front end to bounce, and it will either dip down or go up & then quickly after, the rear follows pattern. When this happens, your headlights will momentarily aim a bit higher, then lower then level back off. The way (especially the RS) our headlights are aimed/focused, that will usually cause the on-coming cars (or in the rear view mirror of cars in front of us) to think we're flashing them, hence the reason they usually flash back. I noticed this myself in a group ryde with an RS behind us. Also, if you've added Elkas or other after market shocks, they will usually raise the front end an inch or so, often requiring the need to readjust the aim of your lights. As Scotty stated, the proper procedure is in the book, hope this helps.
    I think you may have aced it. I've noticed other Spyders lights dancing on rough roads before and it probably confuses a lot of cars.

    BTW, I am rarely flashed by cages. I also ride with brights on during the day...something I've always done with motorcycles.
    Last edited by flaggerphil; 10-22-2012 at 07:56 PM.
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