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  1. #1
    Registered Users Clicker1944's Avatar
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    Default Push button frunk opener

    Well mine stopped working yesterday. Key still works but electric switch is a no go. Has anyone had the problem and what was the fix?
    2011 RTS SE5 Chrome Dash Kit, Best Flame Kit, Chrome handle bar end caps, Chrome Tail pipe tip and heat shield, Chrome Handlebar Cover.

  2. #2
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    Perhaps that little switch up front got bent??
    Right hand side under the black cover... There's a cutout that allows for a small arm from that swtich to do it's magic.
    It's easier than to bend that arm if you're playing under that cover...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Angry Yeah, what Bob said

    They bend & break easily as we've had to have two replaced now If in the off chance your switch ISN'T broken, I'd suggest checking the fuse for it

  4. #4
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    A couple of months ago, we had started up and were ready to pull out when hubby wanted something from the frunk. I pushed the button but it didn't work. Had to turn the bike off and use the key to get him in. The next day I wanted in and pushed the button. It worked. Only thing different was that I was in neutral instead of first gear like the day before. Maybe this is it?

  5. #5
    Very Active Member eddieshep999's Avatar
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    Just on the off chance suggest you try the Switch with the engine running

    On my Spyder RT-S SE5 2010 Model the front trunk switch only works whilst the engine is running
    I understand later models were updated to allow the switch to work whilst the ignition is on but the engine does not need to be
    running

    Sorry not sure ref the later models but someone will be able to put me right or at least give you up to date information on your model
    of Spyder

    The note ref the switch under the Funk - Looks like a metal strip Very valid they can break - Mine was done accidently by a dealer who replaced it free of charge

    Eddie Sheppard
    Reading UK

  6. #6
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    One other common cause is a need for latch lubrication...and possibly adjustment. One task that is neglected by owners doing their own maintenance, and even many dealers, is periodic lubrication of the latches and hinges.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
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  7. #7
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Post 23B in the schematic is the Position Sensor we're all talking about


  8. #8
    Registered Users Clicker1944's Avatar
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    Thanks all...here's an update if I push on the frunk and push the button it works. So it looks like the switch may be misaligned.
    On the 2011 it does work without the engine running.
    Yes I was in neutral.

    Thank you all again. I will either try to adjust it myself or stop at a dealership when in the area of one.
    2011 RTS SE5 Chrome Dash Kit, Best Flame Kit, Chrome handle bar end caps, Chrome Tail pipe tip and heat shield, Chrome Handlebar Cover.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member stevedfive's Avatar
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    Mine did the same thing. I put a piece of 3/16" rubber underneath the switch (double face tape) and it fixed the problem.
    Last edited by stevedfive; 10-10-2012 at 03:17 PM.
    2014 Timeless Black RTS/SE - BRP CB/Comm System; BRP Zumo 660 GPS System; BRP Cellphone Interface; BRP ST-1 Helmets w/BRP Headsets; BRP XM Radio; BRP Tri-Axis Handlebars; BRP Adj Wind Deflectors; BRP Adj Vent Windshield; BRP Comfort Seat & Utopia Backrest; Corbin Armrests; HMT Brake Light; TricLED 3/4 Brake & Running Lights; TricLED Fender Lights & Rr Cargo Lights; CD Fender TIPS Kit; Bump Skid; Scorpio i900 Alarm; Touratech GPS Locking Mount; NBV Highway Mounts; BBP Brake Pedal, Stebel horn.

  10. #10
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clicker1944 View Post
    Thanks all...here's an update if I push on the frunk and push the button it works. So it looks like the switch may be misaligned.
    On the 2011 it does work without the engine running.
    Yes I was in neutral.

    Thank you all again. I will either try to adjust it myself or stop at a dealership when in the area of one.
    I suspect you have a trunk liner and the trunk weatherstrip has been pulled off on one side and is intruding into the opening...pushing up on the lid. You could also need a latch adjustment. Lubricating the latch and latch post should help...but check that weatherstrip.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  11. #11
    Registered Users Clicker1944's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I suspect you have a trunk liner and the trunk weatherstrip has been pulled off on one side and is intruding into the opening...pushing up on the lid. You could also need a latch adjustment. Lubricating the latch and latch post should help...but check that weatherstrip.
    Bingo...the weatherstrip was the culprit was barely noticeable. Thanks!!!
    2011 RTS SE5 Chrome Dash Kit, Best Flame Kit, Chrome handle bar end caps, Chrome Tail pipe tip and heat shield, Chrome Handlebar Cover.

  12. #12
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Can you imagine our lives without the support of this site- THANK YOU ALL

    Just one more reason Teddy & I LOVE SpyderLovers

    Teddy says that deserves a 'HIGH 5'

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  13. #13
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    Scotty is everybody's "long distance mechanic"!
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    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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