Would you have to make more changes to the Spyder to keep it running right if you add the Yoshi?
RAL
Would you have to make more changes to the Spyder to keep it running right if you add the Yoshi?
RAL
Though Lamont has moved on to the Hindle on his RS I'm still running the Yoshimura carbon fiber. I really like it.
I think if this is the only mod you make and you run the DB insert you can probably get away with it as is. If you go to a free flowing intake with the Yoshimura (or any other free flowing exhaust) I'd recommend the JB to make it work right.
You shouldn't crank up the Ying without also cranking up the Yang to match.
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Modern engines are made to run very lean, for emissions reasons, among other things. Adding a free flowing exhaust (without a catalytic converter) and a free flowing air filter, will lean out the engine further if the sensor systems cannot compensate. In the end, you end up needing more fuel, from a device like the Juicebox if the engine mapping in the computer cannot be changed directly. You may need this fuel in just certain places, too, which a system like the Juicebox can do.Thanks for the replies. Don't really want the bike to be louder. A throatier sound with a little extra kick would be great, a little better mileage would be even better. A better air filter and a little better exhaust is all the mods I want to do, I have no interest in a JB or other fuel sucking devices.
I was thinking the Yoshi with the insert and green filter might give me what I am looking for?
RAL
Modern engines are made to run very lean, for emissions reasons, among other things. Adding a free flowing exhaust (without a catalytic converter) and a free flowing air filter, will lean out the engine further if the sensor systems cannot compensate. In the end, you end up needing more fuel, from a device the Juicebox if the engine mapping in the computer cannot be changed directly. You may need this fuel in just certain places, too, which a system like the Juicebox can do.
Operating too lean for the engine's needs can result in engine damage, and can even lower fuel mileage, as you open the throttle to compensate, or shift to a lower gear. It will certainly hamper performance. Optimizing the fuel mixture, in such a case, can actually improve mileage. Every change in the air/fuel system of an engine affects something else, and there are, indeed, trade-offs. You may not be able to survive without that "fuel sucking device". The best way to avoid the need for one is to avoid the other mods, too.
Hodgepodge accessorizing can have unwanted results. What sounds good to you, may not actually work. Be prepared to have to chase the final solution. One or two "small" changes are seldom enough. I know what you want to achieve, but it may not be possible, given the restrictions you have imposed, and your performance could actually suffer. All this comes under the heading of "Be careful what you wish for."
Modern engines are made to run very lean, for emissions reasons, among other things. Adding a free flowing exhaust (without a catalytic converter) and a free flowing air filter, will lean out the engine further if the sensor systems cannot compensate. In the end, you end up needing more fuel, from a device like the Juicebox if the engine mapping in the computer cannot be changed directly. You may need this fuel in just certain places, too, which a system like the Juicebox can do.
Operating too lean for the engine's needs can result in engine damage, and can even lower fuel mileage, as you open the throttle to compensate, or shift to a lower gear. It will certainly hamper performance. Optimizing the fuel mixture, in such a case, can actually improve mileage. Every change in the air/fuel system of an engine affects something else, and there are, indeed, trade-offs. You may not be able to survive without that "fuel sucking device". The best way to avoid the need for one is to avoid the other mods, too.
Hodgepodge accessorizing can have unwanted results. What sounds good to you, may not actually work. Be prepared to have to chase the final solution. One or two "small" changes are seldom enough. I know what you want to achieve, but it may not be possible, given the restrictions you have imposed, and your performance could actually suffer. All this comes under the heading of "Be careful what you wish for."
Modern engines are made to run very lean, for emissions reasons, among other things. Adding a free flowing exhaust (without a catalytic converter) and a free flowing air filter, will lean out the engine further if the sensor systems cannot compensate. In the end, you end up needing more fuel, from a device like the Juicebox if the engine mapping in the computer cannot be changed directly. You may need this fuel in just certain places, too, which a system like the Juicebox can do.
Operating too lean for the engine's needs can result in engine damage, and can even lower fuel mileage, as you open the throttle to compensate, or shift to a lower gear. It will certainly hamper performance. Optimizing the fuel mixture, in such a case, can actually improve mileage. Every change in the air/fuel system of an engine affects something else, and there are, indeed, trade-offs. You may not be able to survive without that "fuel sucking device". The best way to avoid the need for one is to avoid the other mods, too.
Hodgepodge accessorizing can have unwanted results. What sounds good to you, may not actually work. Be prepared to have to chase the final solution. One or two "small" changes are seldom enough. I know what you want to achieve, but it may not be possible, given the restrictions you have imposed, and your performance could actually suffer. All this comes under the heading of "Be careful what you wish for."
All true but I learned at a much younger age that loud pipes and more fuel often is just more noise and expense with little real gain. I was hoping to tap into some of the knowlege on here as to what works to improve efficiency.
I put a K&N in My Ural and ditched the CATS. While many said I needed to replace the main jets with big ones as well as the pilots. I was able to get the results I wanted by just replacing the pilots, runs cool enough and gets decent milage with a little extra kick to boot. Many seem to overlook the damage that can result from adding too much fuel to the mix. I do not mean to imply that you work that way just trying to clearify the direction I am trying to travel.
Thanks for the response.
RAL
All true but I learned at a much younger age that loud pipes and more fuel often is just more noise and expense with little real gain. I was hoping to tap into some of the knowlege on here as to what works to improve efficiency.
I put a K&N in My Ural and ditched the CATS. While many said I needed to replace the main jets with big ones as well as the pilots. I was able to get the results I wanted by just replacing the pilots, runs cool enough and gets decent milage with a little extra kick to boot. Many seem to overlook the damage that can result from adding too much fuel to the mix. I do not mean to imply that you work that way just trying to clearify the direction I am trying to travel.
Thanks for the response.
RAL
Ral,
Try this combination:
Hindle
Green Filter
JB
I have found significantly better performance and slightly better fuel efficiency...before the winter I tweaked I think a little too much...ended up with a bit of popping in 4th gear with deceleration...too much fuel with coasting, I believe...the fuel control with acceleration and maximum throttle is a huge improvement...the green filter, IMHO, is the best of the cartridges...better airflow than the K&N...the hindle is a great pipe...and the JB is the coolest mod I've added...playing with this really makes some major differences...
But with the Spyder, it is a different story. You still have to do the right things and be reasonable in your expectations. But a 15% hp gain while breaking even or even a few MPG increase in fuel mileage is not too hard to get on the Spyder.