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Wow! Now have SMOOTH shifting!
- Thread starter RPM
- Start date
Did I understand this right? The first service is at 3,000 miles? After the first service, how long are the service intervals?
And on the subject of oil, do these motors use any oil between services?
This is my first post. I ride a Suzuki B-King, but the F3 could possibly tempt me on to three wheels. They look incredible.
And on the subject of oil, do these motors use any oil between services?
This is my first post. I ride a Suzuki B-King, but the F3 could possibly tempt me on to three wheels. They look incredible.
vondalyn
New member
The first service is 3000 miles, and then every 9300 miles after that. See this thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nge-maintance-cost&highlight=service+interval
So far mine has not used any oil between services, but I have some on hand just in case. I'm only at about 5500 miles so I have a way to go before my next service.
Nice long service intervals. 9,300 miles is an odd amount. Around 14,900 km, so we'll say 15,000 km. I wonder if anyone will be changing their own oil halfway between service schedules, although that's probably not necessary with modern synthetic oils.
TexAmRider
New member
No change in shifting
I have the 1330 RTL, and my shifting has been somewhat clunky at times. I did not notice a change in shifting after my 3000 mile service and Blended oil change. I am going to go full synthetic my next oil change. Told the dealer service rep I would see him at 9300 miles and he suggested changing the oil every 5000 miles. I may push that with the full synthetic after my next oil change.
I have the 1330 RTL, and my shifting has been somewhat clunky at times. I did not notice a change in shifting after my 3000 mile service and Blended oil change. I am going to go full synthetic my next oil change. Told the dealer service rep I would see him at 9300 miles and he suggested changing the oil every 5000 miles. I may push that with the full synthetic after my next oil change.
Probably overkill to many, but I typically pull an oil change every 3500 miles on anything I own.... Never past 5000. (The 1st I always do early 500-1500m to get rid of the break-in fluid and any potential shavings). And always-always a new filter. Seems no matter what is written about the oils out there, even the best of the synthetics, after 3000 they are traveling downhill into water before you know it).
For this 1st oil change (tonight), I may have $100 into it max with the Amsoil 10w-40 and the filter kit. The $100 is easy insurance in my mind.
For this 1st oil change (tonight), I may have $100 into it max with the Amsoil 10w-40 and the filter kit. The $100 is easy insurance in my mind.
I can't believe a modern synthetic oil in a liquid cooled engine is breaking up after 3,000 miles. I always leave my fully synthetic oil in my B-King for 6,000 miles.
PMK
Active member
PMK
Active member
Used the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil, 10w40, too young to know Dynaflow transmission but it is noticeably smoother once warmed up.
First change was at 2500 miles, new filter and BRP blended oil from "the kit". Second change was to Mobil 1 at 4000 miles, new filter and Dimple drain plugs.
PK
Oil is draining now... Once complete I'll post up something easy for anyone that wants to do it
themselves, plus a tip-or-three.....such as..
1) Why did BRP use a Torx on the one plug(L) and hex(R) on the other. (Meaning you may reach for the
next smaller Torx for plug#2, it "fixs" but in-reality its a hex. Bad assumption I made but caught)
2) Sliding up the brake fluid reservoir (just snaps upwards from its holder), gets it out of the way
for your filter removal.
3) Some wires are in-the-way of filter removal. (What I did)....
4) Proper order (IMHO) of draining... mostly to pull up the dipstick, unscrew the filter cap....THEN pull
the plugs for a more complete drain.
.....so a new post will come up with this so it's basically a $100 max job on your part with simple
tools.
themselves, plus a tip-or-three.....such as..
1) Why did BRP use a Torx on the one plug(L) and hex(R) on the other. (Meaning you may reach for the
next smaller Torx for plug#2, it "fixs" but in-reality its a hex. Bad assumption I made but caught)
2) Sliding up the brake fluid reservoir (just snaps upwards from its holder), gets it out of the way
for your filter removal.
3) Some wires are in-the-way of filter removal. (What I did)....
4) Proper order (IMHO) of draining... mostly to pull up the dipstick, unscrew the filter cap....THEN pull
the plugs for a more complete drain.
.....so a new post will come up with this so it's basically a $100 max job on your part with simple
tools.
LV2RYDE
New member
Why at 1300
Recommendation for F3 oil change at 3000 miles, why are you changing it at 1300?
Recommendation for F3 oil change at 3000 miles, why are you changing it at 1300?
Personal preference since cars and bikes since the early 70's. (Moreso in the past 10yrs). I always want
that initial oil out of the engine by 1500m max to get out any of the initial break-in shavings, lubricants
and such. I go for Amsoil or Motul in the non-auto and Mobil1 in cars (unless a car might be GM like my ZR1 and
has to be Dexos approved to stay in warranty). Also have never (knock on wood/metal) had a failure. I
have always looked at oil as the #1 item to treat like blood in the body... also proper warm-up temp
before higher rpms.
Net-net, personal preference based on 40yrs+ of oil changes, no failures, and especially seeing what comes
out after different intervals. (And believe it or not when I was a kid I was putting M1 in my 75' HurstOlds when
oil came in a can).
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